Thursday, December 17, 2015

Japan: Budget Itinerary and Overview of Expenses

Itinerary

Osaka: First glimpse of the country and solo exploration


Day 1 - Arrive at Kansai International Airport (KIX) via Cebu Pacific. Take the Nankai Airport Limited Express to Shin-Imamiya Station. Check-in at Backpackers Hotel Toyo. Look for a midnight snack

Day 2 - Purchase breakfast from Family Mart. Explore Osaka by walking randomly starting with the Shinsekai area. Manage to get to Umeda, the shopping and business center of Osaka. Get on a train back to the hostel before the stations close.

Japanese lanterns and lit-up sumo wrestlers in front of a Japanese game arcade at Osaka's Shinsekai
Known as Osaka's most dangerous neighbourhood, Shinsekai is my first glimpse to culture in Japan -- entertainment, restaurants, streets, order
Day 3 - Claim discounted breakfast at next-door Cafe Maharuka. Purchase an Osaka One Day Pass ticket at Doubutsuen-mae Station. Explore Osaka Castle Park and adjacent Osaka Business Park. Ride subway to Ebisucho Station and walk around the Denden Town area, passing through Kurumon Market and ending up at Namba. Ride another subway to Yotsubashi Station and hunt for Giracha Coffee for cool bike finds and then check out the hipster shops at nearby Orange Street. Cross the bridge and walk to Dotonbori to see Glico man at the center of the neon lights.

Osaka One Day Pass ticket held over an Osaka Train Route Map
I bought an Osaka One Day Pass which gave me unlimited rides on the subway for only 800 yen -- a good deal since each ride average 200 yen
View of Osaka Castle from the back
Osaka Castle, which is safeguarded by an inner and an outer moat, deserves a half-day visit along with its expansive park
Selection of seafood (squid, octopus, shrimp, clams, sea urchins, etc.) displayed at the Kurumon Ichiba Market (Osaka's Kitchen) in Osaka
Large and fresh seafood at the Kurumon Ichiba Market which is known among locals as "Osaka's Kitchen"
Display of bicycles, hanging from the ceiling and on the walls, with a coffee counter at Giracha Coffee Shop in Osaka
Funky finds for bicycle enthusiasts at the Giracha Coffee shop all while sipping espresso and interacting with other customers
LED signboards, including Glico man signboard at Dotonbori in Osaka amidst a carpet of tourists
One of the landmarks of Osaka, Glico man never fails to reach that finish line

Kyoto: More like-minded people and chill-outs by the river


Day 4 - Take the Hankyu Railway to Kyoto Kawaramachi Station. Check-in with host. Explore Central Kyoto starting with Kyoto Tower, Kyoto Yodobashi, and then Kyoto Station. Have a fast-paced salaryman dinner at Ohsho (not sure about the name) on the way back from Kyoto Station. Enjoy a beer session along the Kamogawa river alongside high school students and other locals.

View of Kyoto Train Station from the top floor
For a city that is steeped in history and wooden structures, Kyoto Station is ironically very modern and characteristically steel
Kamogawa or Kamo River with a grassy bank on the right side and small buildings on the far left
The Kamo River, or Kamo-gawa, which literally means "duck river", is a popular walking and hang-out spot for residents and tourists alike
Day 5 - Get a super late lunch at the supposedly number 1 ramen place in Kyoto, Ramen no Kaze. Take a quick nap by the Kamo River. Explore Nishiki Market and sample locally-made flavored honey. Enjoy a pot of green tea before capping the night.

Bowl of Ramen consisting of chashu (pork) slices, hard-boiled egg cut in half, bean sprouts, and milky broth
With a good selection of ramen and full seats, Ramen no Kaze serves a flavorful broth plus the best Chashu I had -- crispy exterior and tender interior
Riverbanks along Kamogawa consisting of a sandy path where people take carefree strolls and grassy banks where people sit down and lie down
Pathways run along the riverbanks where people normally walk, jog, or bike while some sit and lie down on the grass
Day 6 - See the 1,001 Kannon statues in Sanjusangen-do, or Rengeo-in. Hunt for a cheap conveyor belt sushi restaurant for dinner. Spot for a real geisha (and we did see one!) in the Gion district.

Perspective of Sanjusangen-do from its left-hand corner
The longest wooden structure in Japan, Sanjusangen-do is home to 1,001 statues of the goddess of mercy (no cameras allowed inside)
A row of sushi on a conveyor belt including Tamago Nigiri Sushi at the front
Tamago Nigiri Sushi on the belt waiting to be picked up for 108 yen (roughly Php 40)
Day 7 - Move slowly and sleep the whole day. Get up just in time for a dinner of grilled pork and beef plus beer

Day 8 - Board a JR Train to Saga Arashiyama Station from Kyoto Station. Decide whether to rent a bike or to get a sweet snack or both or neither. Walk through the Bamboo Forest up to the lookout point. Walk down to the river, across Togetsukyo Bridge (or Moon Crossing Bridge), and up to the Kameyama-koen Park (Monkey Park). Watch the monkeys play around while contemplating what to get for a late lunch. Discover that the cheap meals are sold out at the convenience store and resolve by getting a Ton-katsu meal at an unfortunately unfriendly restaurant. Ride the train back home and get some rest. Go out again in the evening solo to contemplate some more about life by the Kamo river while munching on Onigiri and enjoying the cold weather.

Sunlight peaks beneath the trees with a view of the Oi River in Arashiyama, Japan
The Oi River sits beside Arashiyama, or the Storm Mountain
Monkey walking on all-fours just outside the rope gate at the Iwatayama Monkey Park in Arashiyama
Over 170 monkeys at the Iwatayama Monkey Park have become accustomed to human visitors
Day 9 - Assemble IKEA chairs in the morning and accidentally stab my right foot with a knife. Go restaurant-hopping for dinner: (1) Shabu-shabu pre-dinner at a nice restaurant along the river; (2) Gyudon meal at Sukiya; (3) Ice cream dessert at Baskin Robbins 31.

Day 10 - Rent a bicycle for a DIY bike tour of Kyoto. Cycle east to the Higashiyama District, passing by the Gion district and stopping at Honen-in. Resume biking, going towards the direction of stereotypical male high school students, passing by high schools and a couple other temples, and turning to random interesting paths until a dead end of stairways. Carry bicycles up the stairs to a new road where other tourists are also walking around. Resume biking without a specific destination and stop at vacant temples hidden behind ancient trees and falling leaves. Resume biking again and somehow end up at Ginkaku-ji. Stop for a matcha ice cream break and decide that the 500 yen entrance fee to the temple grounds is not worth it because it is almost closing time. Resume biking along the parallel road to the Philosopher's Path to avoid the crowd and then head west away from the Higashiyama District. Attempt to drag bikes uphill along a deserted path strewn with dead leaves with the hope of an exhilarating downhill ride, a sunset scene, and a view of the city lights. Abort mission after confirming the endless flight of stairs from passers-by and because an army of mosquitoes has been eating us up. Resume biking westward again and eventually end up at the expansive Imperial Palace. Cycle inside and come out at the north gate to cycle northward along the Kamogawa River. Cycle back to the Higashiyama District for a quick Okonomiyaki dinner. With 15 minutes left, rush back to the bicycle rental shop, taking advantage of downhill slopes and staying as safe as possible.

Moss-covered pathways and manicured flora in Honen-in as viewed from outside the temple doors
A peak to the moss-covered pathways and manicured flora of Honen-in
Japanese male high school students walking together from end of school
An army of high school students marching home from end of school
Small wooden temple at the foot of the mountain in Western Kyoto
An unnamed temple with zero tourists hidden at the foot of the mountain
Day 11 - Sit down at a cafe to get some work done and to organize plans. Send off one of the housemates at Kyoto Station. Purchase meals and snacks at a discount from Isetan's closing sale. Fall in line at the JR Office for the JR Pass Exchange.

Day 12 - Get up early and run to Lawson 100 and then to McDonald's. See the bright orange gates of the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. Watch the sunset from the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Start packing my bags for tomorrow's departure. Get takoyaki and beer then head to the river one last time for a final session of life talks, adventure stories, and travel plans with housemates.

Carpet of tourists at the orange gates of Fushimi Inari Taisho in Kyoto
The bright orange wooden gates stand out against the background of trees and swarm of people
Takoyaki balls being transfered into a take-away dish while several more are being cooked
Take-away takoyaki from that standing bar that we always pass by and which is mostly full of locals

Nagoya: First Shinkansen and detour to Mt. Fuji


Day 13 - Get up at 6am to catch the first Shinkansen going to Nagoya and miss it by 10 mins. Arrive at Nagoya Station one hour later, walk 20 mins to the hostel to avoid a 200 yen train ticket, and meet up with Filipino friends. Take the train back to Nagoya Station, take a second Shinkansen to Numazu, and then transit to Gotemba for a view of Mt. Fuji and a touristy lunch stop.

Tokyo: Travel with companions, and a lot of walking, biking and taking the train


Day 13 - Arrive at Tokyo via a third Shinkansen and check-in at selected Airbnb accommodation. Go out for dinner and then go around nearby spots of interest such as Senso-ji, Don Quijote, and Sumida River.

Day 14 - Rent a bicycle and cycle through spots in Tokyo starting with the Tsukiji Fish Market. Fall in line for 30 mins to Yamazaki Sushi. Cycle to Tokyo Imperial Palace via Ginza and then lie down on the grass while imagining what the place was like a century ago. Resume cycling, passing by Roponggi Hills, stopping at a bike shop for some parts and then at a 7/11 for pre-dinner, and arriving at Hachiko's statue in Shibuya. Leave bikes at a parking lot and walk around Shibuya to look for a good dinner place. Take a train to Harajuku Station then walk back to Shibuya Station. Pick up the bikes, fold them into a bag, and then drag them to the train back to Asakusa.

Day 15 - Buy bread from the local bakery because it smells nice and then get a salaryman brunch from Yoshinoya. Take a train from Ueno Station to Katsuta Station and then a bus to the Hitachi Seaside Park. Wander around the park while wondering at the colorful flowers, burning red bushes, and ever green grass. Opt to walk 4kms towards the nearest train station instead of waiting in line for the bus back to Katsuta Station. End up walking until dark and waiting at a deserted, poorly lighted station for a train ride that costs 170 yen more than the bus. Starve and get stranded on the Shinkansen back to Tokyo because someone decided to jump on the railroads. Get a feel-good dinner of gyoza and ramen once back at Asakusa.

Fields of burning red flora and lines of tourists at the Hitachi Seaside Park
Could these be the burning bush that Moses saw?
Rows of pink and white flora amidst greeneries at the Hitachi Seaside Park
Orderly rows of flowers and greens
Day 16 - Decide to stay in Tokyo for another night instead of heading out to Nikko. Look out for cosplayers along Takeshita Dori in Harajuku. Enjoy some specialty coffee at Omotesando Koffee. Window-shop at the high-end local and global boutiques in Omotesando and Shibuya. Gaze at the electronic displays, girls in maid costumes, toys, and crowd in Akihabara.

A barista carefully sprinkles cinnamon over a cup of latte at Omotesando Koffee in Tokyo
Coffee and drinks prepared with passion and precision, every time

Nagano: Mountain towns, autumn leaves, apple orchards, and ancient trees


Day 17 - Take another Shinkansen from Ueno to Nagano Station. Transfer to the subway and get off at the last station at Yudanaka. Be greeted by an elderly man who just wants to practice his English. Check-in at Yudanaka Seifuso to quickly put down bags and then rush off to Jigokudani Yaen-koen Park (Snow Monkey Park). Walk 2kms along the Yumichi Natural Trail while munching on Almond Chocolates because we didn't have time for lunch. Watch the macaque monkeys as they chase each other around, forage for seeds and flowers, and lie on their bellies. Walk 4kms back to avoid the 500 yen bus ride and also to explore the mountain town. Enjoy a warm dinner of rice bowls and noodles at a restaurant with a poorly kept kitchen and manned by a single cook/waiter/cashier/cleaner. Soak at the indoor and outdoor onsens which are fortunately unoccupied and beautifully strewn with floating apples. Get up suddenly at midnight and crave for a walk and a snack at the only convenience store in town.

Lines of trees along the Yumichi Natural Trail heading to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen Park (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
A short 2km (30min_ hike through the Yumichi Natural Trail
Mother monkey and child atop a rock while foraging for food at the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
A mother and child foraging for food among the rocks and bushes
Red-faced monkey lying down on flat rock at the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
This guy just wants to lie down beside his flower
Day 18 - Enjoy one last dip at the onsen before catching the hourly train from Yudanaka Station. Get off at Suzaka Station and check-in at Guesthouse Kura, a 100 year-old traditional Japanese house. Enjoy a late lunch of Sukiyaki and Katsudon at Matsubaya. Walk around the quiet town of storehouses and watch the sunset from Garyu Park. Hunt for the only 7/11 in town to get cash then get some dinner also.

Waiting shed on a clearing at one of the trails from Garyu Park in Suzaka, Japan
One of the rest stops along the hiking trail in Garyu Park, the look out offers great views of the city and the mountains
Day 19 - Get up early and take a train back to Nagano Station. Drop bags at a locker rental and pick-up bento boxes from a convenience store. Board the Togakushi Bus and get off at the Okusha Shrine stop (second to the last stop). Act like ninjas and battle trap doors at the Ninja House. Hike amidst ancient trees and falling leaves to Okusha Shrine and then to Kagami Ike. Marvel at the varying shades of orange and green while munching on onigiri which was a gift from a friendly bus-mate. Head back to Chusha Shrine and hunt for a Soba Restaurant. Chance upon an empty one and make friends with the cook who works as a ski lift operator on winters. Head back to Nagano Station to pick up bags and board the Limited Express Shinano to Nagoya.

Ninja obstacle wall at the Ninja House in Togakushi, Japan
The Ninja House features an outdoor obstacle course, a trick house, a Shuriken shooting range, and a museum
An onigiri held in front of the Kagami Ike (Kagami Lake) that features orange fall leaves in Togakushi, Japan
An onigiri given out of kindness and a natural view of gradients and textures
Bowl of hot soba noodles with a side dish of soft pumpkin in Togakushi, Japan
Togakushi is known for its special kind of soba noodles but as I am no connoisseur, I only know that its freshly-made

Nagoya: Chill and hectic days


Day 20 - Look for a local place to get brunch. Walk around randomly at the Sakura Honmachi and Sakae areas. Get dinner at a Yakiniku restaurant that has a Filipino menu and is frequented by Filipino customers. Find way back to Fushimi.

Day 21 - Rush through the train stations to be at the Toyota Kaikan Museum before 10:30am. Enjoy a DIY tour of the museum and a guided tour of their factory. Walk to the nearest supermarket to get a late lunch and some chocolates for take home. Head back to central Nagoya and wait for the shuttle bus to the airport. Pick-up Royce chocolates from the duty-free shop and a light dinner at the convenience store. Depart from Chubu Centrair International Airport (NGO) via Cebu Pacific.

Expenses


Transportation

Manila – Osaka via Cebu Pacific
P 2,250
Nagoya – Manila via Cebu Pacific
P 3,403
International Travel Tax
P 1,620
Peso Total
P 7,273
7-day JR Pass
29,110 yen
Nankai Airport Limited Express
920 yen
Osaka One Day Pass
800 yen
Hankyu Railway
400 yen
Bicycle rental @ Kyoto
500 yen
Bicycle rental @ Tokyo
300 yen
Togakushi Bus
2,600 yen
Airport Shuttle bus to Chubu Airport
1,200 yen
Other transportation @ Osaka
420 yen
Other transportation @ Kyoto
1,040 yen
Other transportation @ Tokyo
1,020 yen
Other transportation @ Hitachi
970 yen
Other transportation @ Yudanaka
1,260 yen
Other transportation @ Suzaka
780 yen
Other transportation @ Togakushi
540 yen
Other transportation @ Nagoya
2,860 yen
Yen Total
44,720 yen

Accommodation

Airbnb @ Tokyo
P 957 x 3 nights
Yudanaka Seifusu @ Yudanaka
P 2,070
Airbnb @ Nagoya
P 670 x 2 nights
Peso Total
P 6,281
Backpackers Hotel Toyo @ Osaka
1,600 yen x 3 nights
Oak Hostel @ Tokyo
4,850 yen
Guesthouse Kura @ Suzaka
3,000 yen
Yen Total
12,650 yen

Meals

Meals @ Osaka
3,791 yen
Meals @ Kyoto
13,291 yen
Meals @ Tokyo
10,523 yen
Meals @ Hitachi
1,135 yen
Meals @ Yudanaka
1,498 yen
Meals @ Suzaka
1,594 yen
Meals @ Togakushi
1,228 yen
Meals @ Nagoya
3,512 yen
Yen Total
36,572 yen

Activities/Sights

Sanjusangen-do @ Kyoto
600 yen
Monkey Park @ Kyoto
550 yen
Hitachi Seaside Park @ Hitachi
440 yen
Snow Monkey Park @ Yudanaka
500 yen
Ninja House @ Togakushi
600 yen
Locker rental
550 yen
Yen Total
3,240 yen

Summary of Expenses

Yen
Peso
Transportation
44,720
7,273
Accommodation
12,650
6,281
Meals
36,572
Activities/Sights
3,240
Expenses Total
97,12 yen
P 13,554
Peso Estimate for 21 days
P 51,455

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Japan 2015: Overview and Itinerary

Warning: lengthy post ahead

Last October 2015, I attempted my most ambitious travel yet: 21 days in Japan. I say it's ambitious because of the high cost of living in the country, my intended length of stay, and the spontaneity of the plan. Japan was never in my short-term travel list but circumstances seemed to favor advancing it and so I took a leap and thankfully survived.

Below is an overview of how I spent my 21 days in the country.

Google Maps screenshot of Japan travel itinerary
Google Maps screenshot of my travel itinerary

Itinerary

Day 1-3: Arrival at Kansai International Airport (KIX), Explore Osaka


Although I did my research on how to get out from the airport to the city-center, I felt completely lost in front of the super-sized Train Network Map and beeping Ticket Vending Machines. There was an overwhelming surplus of Japanese characters and I just stood in confusion with my 20kg backpacks until I gathered enough wit to ask at an open counter. I eventually made my way to my hostel that night and figured out the train system in the succeeding days.

Izakaya store-front with Japanese characters in Osaka, Japan
Japanese characters plastered all in front of a local restaurant
Osaka is known as the Food Capital of Japan and locals are said to go broke from eating out so much. For a first-time visitor, the Japanese menu and non-Japanese speaking servers may seem intimidating. Fortunately, in some restaurants, pictures of food are displayed outside making it possible to just point at the food order (turo-turo style).

A restaurant window with fake food displays of Japanese foods in Osaka, Japan
Food replicas displayed on a restaurant window to both entice and guide customers
Rows of takoyaki balls on a hot plate
While walking around, I stumbled upon a takoyaki stand and was fortunate enough to get the last set of balls for the night
Aside from a bit of eating, I also did some touring. I purchased a day pass for 800 yen which allowed me unlimited rides on the subway.

Osaka One Day Pass ticket held over an Osaka Train Route Map
With my Map and Day Pass, I am ready to explore Osaka
Perspective of Osaka Castle from the back side
Osaka Castle
Crowd of people walking along Namba Shopping District with a view of Japanese billboards in Osaka
Namba shopping district
Famous Glico man alongside other LED billboards in Dotonbori, Osaka
The famous Glico man (Glico is the company behind the Pocky brand) 
Light up LED Dotonbori entrance arc with Japanese characters
Dotonbori entertainment district

Day 4-12: Living Local in Kyoto


To save on accommodations, I decided to stay put in Kyoto for a few days. This enabled me to soak in the city not as a visitor but as a resident and it has been one of the most significant experiences of my life.

Kamogawa (Kamo River) with a view of Japanese houses on the right
The majestic Kamogawa River not given justice by this picture
Upon getting off at Hankyu Kawaramachi station, I was welcomed by a silently gushing river on a warm mid-afternoon. I instantly imagined myself lying down along the wide riverbank, bathing in sunlight, and taking in the sounds of the river and the city. Although I wasn't able to do exactly this, I was still able to enjoy the many big and small rivers of Kyoto as well as its enjoyable cold Autumn weather.

View of mossy paths and manicured bushes of Honen-in from outside of the temple
Behind these gates are moss-covered pathways and intricate gardens, so says the guide book
Kyoto is home to over 1,600 temples. However, entrance to the big and popular ones is not free so I contented myself with just taking peaks or strolling around the exterior gardens. I paid to get in only one of them (Sanjusangen-do) but I'm sure the other bigger temples would be worth the fee especially if I could spend a few hours going around them.

Bowl of ramen from Ramen Sen no Kaze in Kyoto consisting of chashu (pork slices), boiled egg, and bean sprouts
Ramen Sen No Kaze: the best chashu that I had. The ramen itself was also noteworthy
Daily objectives in Kyoto included looking for a good and cheap place to eat. There was a time when we had a super late lunch at 4pm and we decided to eat ramen. I got intoxicated by both the flavor and by having something in my stomach that I was literally just smiling to myself. We were also so full afterwards that we just went and took a nap (siesta) by the riverbanks.

Takoyaki being transferred to a take-out container made of thin wood shaped into a boat
Favorite Japanese food in Japan: Takoyaki
On my last night in Kyoto, we bought Takoyaki and beer and walked to the river again for a last (for now) session of life talks, travel stories, and personal sentiments. It was the end of the beginning of my love story with Kyoto.

Day 13: Shinkansen #1, View of Mt. Fuji from Gotemba


I took an early morning Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagoya to meet up with Filipino friends. Afterwards, we took another Shinkansen together to Gotemba. The glorious Mt. Fuji was at the left-hand side of the train car throughout the 30-minute ride.

View of Mt. Fuji on the way to Gotemba with a foreground of tall willow grass
Mt. Fuji behind a foreground of greens and yellows. Credits to Marloweee for the Instragram shot

Day 14: Exploring Tokyo by Bike


The next morning, we woke up in Tokyo and rented ourselves a pair of folding bikes. We cycled the whole day from Asakusa to Tsukiji to Ginza to Ropponggi and to Shibuya. It was fun and liberating but it was also exhausting and inconvenient. We didn't want to cycle back so we folded the bikes and dragged them onto the trains.

girl on a bicycle underneath a steel bridge with a view of the river on the right and of buildings in the background
From Tsukiji, we crossed the river, cycled under the bridge, and dragged our bikes back up the road. Taken by Marloweee
Girl on a folding bike in between shopping malls in Ginza, Japan
One of the shopping streets in Ginza. Spot the Uniqlo store. Taken by Marloweee

Day 15: Flowers of Hitachi Seaside Park


After successfully pulling ourselves out of bed following an exhaustive yesterday, we were just in time for the 11:30am Shinkansen to Katsuta Station. We spent the whole day walking around Hitachi Seaside Park which is home to a thousand varieties of plants and to billions of blooming flowers, alongside cycling trails and an amusement park.

Guy walking towards a bullet train (shinkansen) in Tokyo with a view of the rails and the platform
A typical view of train tracks, bullet trains, and people running towards (along) them.
Flame-red bushes and tourists at Hitachi Seaside Park
The whole while, the image of the Lorax and his red trees kept popping in my head
Red roses in full bloom amidst dark-green leaves and thick stems
Have you ever seen a red rose in FULL bloom?
A towering Ferris Wheel with a foreground of tall willow grass in Hitachi Seaside Park
A towering Ferris Wheel in the midst of bushes, gardens, and greens
At closing time, we headed straight to the park's bus station and was immediately met by a long line of people waiting for the same bus. Because we were feeling a bit adventurous, we decided to walk 4kms to the nearest train station instead in order to avoid the line and maybe get a preview of the ocean. This led to a very adventurous night indeed. More on this in a separate post.

Guy walking along an empty path littered with fallen leaves and lined with green trees outside Hitachi Seaside Park
We walked more than 4kms along a deserted pathway littered with dead leaves and large spiders 

Day 16: Exploring Tokyo by Foot and by Rail


We were supposed to leave for Nikko this day but felt that we haven't explored enough of Tokyo so we decided to go through as much of the metro city as we can while hunting for coffee shops and bike shops.

Barista carefully sprinkling cinnamon over a latte at Omotesando Koffee in Tokyo
Owner Eiichi Kunitomo delicately crafts each cup and shot himself
Our first stop was Omotesando Koffee, a small specialty coffee shop (more of a pop-up store actually) hidden in the Harajuku district. It is manned by a single barista pulling espressos inside a 3x3m cube with a small garden as a sitting area for four people.

A cup of Espresso Macchiato from Omotesando Koffee at the courtyard of the shop in Tokyo
Espresso macchiato
Afterwards, we walked from Harajuku to Shibuya, stopping at hipster shops, looking out for specialty coffee shops, and checking out bicycles along the way. The Omotesando area was really nice with all its side-streets, local boutique stores, and terrain.

Crowd along Takeshita-dori in Shibuay district of Tokyo, Japan
A carpet of people along Takeshita Dori on the lookout for cosplayers and fancy finds. Taken by Marloweee
Our last stop for the day was Akihabara which is the closest to the Tokyo that foreigners imagine -- Maid cafes, Anime shops, the latest gadgets, electronic billboards, and other crazy stuff -- except toned down a little bit.

Girl with backpack in between claw machines (UFO Cathcer) at an arcade in Akihabara, Tokyo
Overwhelmed by all the lights, sounds, and images -- and this was just inside the arcade. Taken by Marloweee.

Day 17: Yudanaka and its Monkeys


At lunch time the following day, we were on a bullet train again, this time headed for the mountains -- to the Nagano prefecture. We passed by numerous orchards and shrieked in awe over the humungous apples popping out against a green background of leaves. Upon arrival at Yudanaka Station, we were met by an elderly man who was part of a group that practices their English by greeting tourists. He pointed us towards our ryokan (traditional Japanese Inn) where we checked in and quickly ran out again to catch the last opening hours of the Snow Monkey Park.

Yellow sign pointing to Monkey Park with a red arrow with a background of dirt trail and forests
The Jigokudani Yaen-koen Park is most popularly visited for the macaque monkeys that inhabit the area
Girl with backpack walking along Yumichi Natural Trail to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
We walked 2kms for around 30 mins along the Yumichi Natural Trail to get to where the monkeys hang-out
A snow monkey with red face sitting on top of a log fence with a few tourists at the background in Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park)
For some reason, the monkeys have grown accustomed to humans within their habitat whom they pay absolutely no attention to
Monkey walking around a pool of water with a wooden bridge in the background at the Snow Monkey Park (Jigokudani Yaen-Koen) in Yudanaka, Japan
The monkeys can be seen bathing in the onsen (hot spring) during winter which is how they have been known as snow monkeys
Three men dressed in a yukata (kimono) walking along an alley in Yudanaka, Japan
Aside from the snow monkeys, Yudanaka is also known as a hot spring resort destination and is lined with traditional ryokans and small hotels

Day 18: An Old Guesthouse and a Peaceful Mountain Lookout in Suzaka


The next morning, under a strict schedule for waking up, dipping in the onsen, packing our bags, saying goodbye to our homey host, and walking to the station, we hopped on the train again to Suzaka, a town settled between apple farms and mountainous forests.

A row of houses and an empty road in Suzaka Japan with a mountain in the distant background
Unpopular to tourists, Suzaka City is populated by store houses owing to its history of having a thriving spinning business

The city had a small town feel where everyone seems to know everyone. It wasn't initially in our list but a good friend strongly recommended it and we obliged. We were only targeting for Guesthouse Kura, a 100-year old Japanese house that has been converted into a guesthouse, but was similarly impressed by the creative use of the store houses, the peacefulness of the city, and the electric cars that darted every now and then.

Lake and bridge in Garyu Park in Suzaka, Japan
Garyu Park is a good destination for both residents and visitors for mountain strolling, fish-feeding, and boating, as well as cherry blossom-viewing in the summer
A waiting shed on a clearing along one of the trails at Garyu Park in Suzaka, Japan
After a short uphill trail, we found this look-out area and just stayed to absorb the surrounding nature and to observe the bustle below

Day 19: Ninja tricks and fall leaves in Togakushi


Early the next day, we ran after the hourly Nagano Dentetsu Train to Nagano under another strict schedule. We were bound for Togakushi in the morning and for Nagoya in the evening, and with limited train schedules and long travel times, we kept running after one departure time to another.

An obstacle course wall fit for a ninja at the Ninja House in Togakushi, Japan
Our first stop in Togakushi is the Ninja House where we skimmed through a ninja obstacle course and figured our way out of a Ninja Trick House

After dropping our bags at a locker in Nagano Station and picking up breakfast from a convenience store, we stood in line for the bus headed to Togakushi. It was an hour ride up the mountain passing through dense forests that transform into skiing routes come winter.

Girl crossing a river with a small wooden bridge in the middle of the forest littered with brown and fallen leaves in Togakushi, Japan
Crossing a creek along the trail from Chusha Shrine to Kagami Ike. Taken by Marlowee
Kagami Ike (Kagami Lake) with a reflection of the surrounding mountains displaying red, orange,and brown fall colors in Togakushi, Japan
The colors of fall

After a quick hike up Chusha Shrine amidst towering ancient trees and a shower of fall leaves, we found our way to Kagami Ike (Kagami Lake) and marveled at the gradients of autumn over a backdrop of clear blue skies and shadowy mountains.

Painter tries to put the view into canvass at Kagami Ike (Kagami Lake) in Togakushi, Japan
One of the painters in the immediate area attempting to replicate the colors of nature

Walking a bit away from the packed noodle restaurants, we chanced upon an empty restaurant and became its sole customers. I watched as the cook made the noodles from scratch, cut it by hand in even thickness, and cooked it by dipping several times into the hot broth. Aside from the especially-made food, we also enjoyed a quick chat with the cook about upcoming storms in the Philippines and his changing occupation based on the season, i.e. a lift operator in the winter and a soba cook in other seasons.

A bowl of hot soba noodles with a side of cold soft pumpkin in Togakushi, Japan
Hot Togakushi Soba freshly made and served with cold soft pumpkin

Arriving back at Nagano Station aboard the same Togakushi line bus, we savored the few minutes we could stop and walk slowly before running again to pick up our bags from the rental locker and to catch the Limited Express Shinano line to Nagoya.

Day 20: Bicycles and walks in Nagoya


Following a hectic and tiring yesterday, we decided to take a slow day. After getting a meaty lunch alongside locals, we went to Sakura Honmachi Station where we hunted for bicycle parts and for random streets. With only my mental compass as guide, I walked the whole afternoon across bridges and along empty streets until I saw the sun set. And then I walked all the way back, losing my bearings in between but always finding my way.

A Red train approaches as the setting sun is reflected on its windows
A random picture of a random train crossing a random road highlighted by a random sunset
Bicycles and parts on display at a bicycle shop in Nagoya, Japan
A Disney wonderland for some. Taken by Marloweee

Day 21: Toyota Plant Tour, Departure from Chubu Centrair International Airport (NGO)


On the morning of our departure, we managed to squeeze in a scheduled tour of the Toyota Plant. It was an hour and a half travel where we again secured our bags at a train station locker before running after the 10:30 am call time at Toyota Kaikan Museum. It was an interesting and interactive tour and I wish we were given more time and freedom to explore. Pictures weren't allowed so I'll leave you with this link on how to sign up for the guided plant tour.

At 5:30 pm, we were awaiting the shuttle bus that will take us directly to Chubu Airport. I took my last glimpse and feel of the once daunting country that have become another home away from home before blending in with the familiar hustle and bustle of other Filipinos also headed back to Manila.

Trip total including airfare and taxes for 21 days: ~Php 60,000