(Big) Island Hopping

From the powdery beaches of Boracay to the familiar boulevard of Dumaguete

Travel date: 17-30 July 2019
Destinations: Kalibo, Boracay Island, Mararison Island, Iloilo City, Bacolod City, Dumaguete City
Images: Gregg Yan

At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background

At the height of Habagat season, we agreed to take two weeks off to cross the island of Panay in Western Visayas towards Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. I would have done it solo, as usual, but since a few moons ago, adventures and excursions have become a pleasant joint affair.

Melt-in-your-mouth oysters for lunch

Our adventure started in Kalibo, the almost-city capital of Aklan province. I met him at the arrival gate just as the torrential rain stopped and let his plane disembark. We then walked a couple hundred meters, dodging puddles and tourist vans, to catch a late dinner and beer. The following day, we negotiated a tricycle ride (aka the taxis of the old that would bring you literally anywhere at the right price) to New Washington where I almost cried eating melt-in-your-mouth fresh oysters.

Oysters are filter feeders that eat plankton and algae. They are a low-trophic type of seafood, which means that they sit very low on the food chain and are sustainable and low-impact sources of food. Although plant-based food will always be my go-to, locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food is the higher goal.

Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white sand in Boracay Island

Switching to beach mode

Later in the afternoon, I found myself in awe (for the nth time) of White Beach in Boracay. The wind was blowing strongly, the sand was white and powdery as ever, the waves rolled in one after the other, and my eyes twinkled and smiled in a heart-shaped manner. The carpet of tourists that stretched from Station 1 to 3 even added to its appeal and energy.

For the next seven days, we got out of bed late, walked 10,000 steps, ate both cheaply and expensively, sought random adventures, and drank beer before bed. Laptop work was pushed to the back-burner, but only because internet was not available where it should be.

On most afternoons, we headed out to White Beach and played like kids, either in the water or on the sand. On others, we walked into luxury resorts and enjoyed their amenities, sometimes with a resort fee and sometimes for free.

One high-energy activity that we did though, was horse-back riding. We trotted across golfing hills and galloped down beach coves -- by "we" I mean "95% him, 1% me, and 4% our guide". It was my real first experience and it didn't seem as scary or dangerous as I thought. I also didn't expect it to be extremely exhausting.

A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island

Tiny but terrible Mararison

By day 9, heavy rains have descended onto the paradise island. Luckily, we were already on the move towards the tiny island of Mararison in Antique.

Accessible from Culasi Port via a 20-minute boat ride, Mararison* Island (aka Malalison Island) is a 55-hectare hook-shaped picturesque island that features rolling hills, white sand beaches, marine sanctuaries, and a welcoming community. It offers a feast for outdoorsmen and nature lovers with its varied hiking trails, long stretches of sand, and protected snorkelling sites, not to mention it has a cave, a lake, an islet, a solar power plant, and mobile and internet signal.

After asking about local celebrities who have visited and of local spots to check out, we followed Ate Jiji to catch the sunset from Lantawan Peak, all the while badgering her with a million questions and a thousand photographs. She shared both her personal history and her island's history while we posed on steep slopes and beside pitcher plants.

The following morning, we were up and about way before my set alarm. We set out to comb the entire beach for sea glass**, finding some rare colors, and ended up walking over marble boulders at the other side of the island. On the way, we saw kids burying each other in the sand, so-called "jackstones" that break down incoming waves, a washed-up porcupine fish with pouty lips, and several typhoon-damaged house ruins.

*"Mararison" also translates to "the naughty kid/sibling" in the local dialect. Mararison Island is part of a trio of small islands located west off the coast of Antique, together with Maniquin Island and Batbatan Island. It is presumably "the naughtiest" of the three island-siblings.

**Sea glass refers to shards of broken glass that have been weathered by the sea, thus acquiring a frosted appearance and smoothened edges.

I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique

Quickie in the city

After a 6-hour, semi-comfortable, stop-and-go ride aboard a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus, we arrived at our internet- and cable-equipped, white linen-dressed, standard hotel room in Iloilo City. It was an opportunity to catch up with some laptop work and to get some quality sleep, but only for the next 15 hours.

Newspaper hunting in inasal country

Despite the battering rain, we managed to get a taxi to the fastcraft terminal in Iloilo City. The two-hour fastcraft ride to Bacolod City seemed out-of-budget at Php300, but it does include a free movie chosen by whichever midshipman has the remote. In this case, it was Alita: The Battle Angel.

Arriving at Bacolod City, our priorities shifted between getting lunch and finding a newspaper -- both ridiculously difficult goals at that time -- before running out of buses. It was already 3pm and buses run only until 8pm to Dumaguete, which is at least a further 6 hours away.

Almost synonymous to chicken inasal*, or Filipino grilled chicken, majority (if not all) restaurants in Bacolod City specialized in some variation of chicken inasal, while non-meat dishes were unthinkable. We ended up at Manokan Country, a line of local, independent restaurants all dedicated to the local delicacy. I was already settling for rice and plain soup but thought oysters might be okay. Well, I was immobilized with a stomachache the next day.

While I was saving our table at Manokan Country, he made a run to the local central market where newspapers were allegedly found. This was after checking convenience stores, coffee shops, supermarkets, newspaper stands, and bookstores for that Sunday's issue of the Manila Bulletin, the country's largest English language broadsheet newspaper by circulation. At a time when paper publications are dying and in a region where Panay News dominates, it took a great deal of inconvenience, hustling and asking around to grab one of few copies of Manila Bulletin's Panorama.

With these goals ticked, we settled into our air-conditioned Ceres bus seats and drifted to sleep.

*Inasal, esp. chicken inasal, refers to a method of grilling chicken that originated in the City of Bacolod. Typically, specifically-cut chicken parts are marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar, and annatto then grilled over hot coals, and served with rice, soy sauce, chicken oil, and sinamak.

All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps

A meeting of green minds

It was the start of the week and the end of our trip. Work duties have been knocking so we began to transition back to our work routines. This just meant drinking coffee, getting up before 9am, sitting in a cafe or restaurant somewhere, and typing on our laptops.

Additionally, we met up with friends of mine and friends of his for dinner and drinks. This consisted of people from different backgrounds and hometowns who all ended up in Dumaguete that night, primarily because of environment- and conservation-related work. Over Italian-style mushroom pasta, hard goat cheese, gin and tonic, and the requisite San Miguel beer, we exchanged stories from the wild, from previous travels, and of ridiculous anecdotes. Passion and compassion were shared around without actually being said and it felt very comfortable and familiar.

A few hours later, at the break of dawn, we were back in Manila and having a second round of breakfast at McDonald's.

Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-coloured shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating molluscs [right]

Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddleboard instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails

The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grassy lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow

Feeling Amazing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Travel date: 13 December 2018 - 9 January 2019

Chiang Mai is the largest city in mountainous northern Thailand. It is located 700km north of Bangkok and is surrounded by the highest mountains in the country. Founded in 1296, it replaced Chiang Rai as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna. (Note: Chiang Mai means "New City".)

The city is surrounded by a moat and thick walls, which served as defenses against the threatful Taungoo Dynasty and the invading Mongol Empire. It is home to over 300 elaborate Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep atop Doi Suthep mountain and Wat Phra Singh within the city walls.

Historically, Chiang Mai has significant cultural, trading and economic importance, second only to Bangkok. Presently, it is considered as among the best cities for digital nomads, with its speedy internet, low cost of living, and abundance of things to do.

*****

I came to Chiang Mai from Taiwan as it was the cheapest flight route I found from Taipei. I didn't research much and wasn't expecting anything. Fortunately, Chiang Mai became a very pleasant surprise. I enjoyed its small alleyways, its surrounding waterways, its cold evenings and its vegetarian-friendly eateries. It made me see the Thailand that most other travellers see -- "Amazing Thailand".

I spent most of my time cycling around and exploring small alleys inside and outside of the old city walls. Very confusing at first, I eventually learned to navigate with minimal help from Google Maps to find garden restaurants, small coffee shops, and discreet yoga studios. Every street was interesting and seemed to hide something just waiting to be uncovered.

Crossing the big road towards my guesthouse, the setting sun caught my attention and tempted me to explore further instead of going straight home.

Sometimes, my two wheels bring me to one of the many local markets around the city. I hunt for snacks wrapped in banana leaves, browse through the displays of local vegetables and fruits, and even consider purchasing new handmade clothing and native bags.

The local markets are most alive on mornings with various stalls selling fresh produce, cooked meals, packaged pastries and hot beverages.

With the many vegetarian/vegan eateries around the city, I was never bothered to cook for myself. I felt so spoiled with having a lot of affordable, accessible and delicious options -- even non-vegetarian restaurants offer vegetarian options. I didn't really have to think and plan my meals, a very welcome change to the Philippine scene where I always have to "negotiate". 

Cat House was the first vegan/vegetarian restaurant that I ate at in Chiang Mai. Although a bit pricey, they had a good selection of mains, smoothies and cakes. 

During my stay, I found the opportunity to see and listen to local jazz bands at North Gate Jazz Co-op and at Thapae East. I got the tip from a friendly random over dinner at a small restaurant that wasn't actually my target destination. I'm not really a music person and I can't name a favorite song or genre but jazz is definitely one of those I listen to -- not that I understand what jazz music really is.

At North Gate Jazz Co-op, the crowd definitely enjoyed the high-energy, head-banging but not-ear-ringing music of this band. The passionate expression of their drummer is just a bonus. 

Probably the most touristy thing that I did in Chiang Mai, I signed up with Elephant Nature Park, a group that truly cares for the elephants, to experience a day with a trio of elephants. I spent Christmas Day endlessly feeding them with bananas and walking them up a hill and then back down to the river along with their actual caretakers-slash-brothers and other visitors from the US, Taiwan and Latvia.

The mother elephant greedily takes as much bananas as is offered to her, not minding her two daughters right beside her. Although they protect each other, elephants don't share food. 

On some mornings, I cycled through the early morning chill to join the local group of yoga practitioners for a free session at the park. The group composed of international yoga teachers who are living in or just passing by Chiang Mai and who are volunteering to lead public yoga sessions at most twice daily for free. It was a different experience practicing yoga at a public open space instead of in a private studio.

Unlike in the controlled environment of a yoga studio, peace and quiet is a game of chance at the park. In one session, motorized grass-cutters provided our ambient music.

My last couple of days in Chiang Mai luckily coincided with Monk Chat's weekly overnight meditation retreat. Held on Tuesdays till Wednesdays, their Buddhist meditation retreat is perfect for newbies who might not be up to the challenge of 10-day and 21-day silent retreats. Although I can go days without talking to anyone, I still found it difficult and awkward and I couldn't meditate anymore by the morning.

Guided by Phra KK, we practised seating, walking, standing and lying down meditation. It was my second exposure to meditation during which I had moments of feeling "high".

Towards the end of my stay in Chiang Mai, I realized how happy I have been for the past couple of months. I met some really inspiring people, I ate so much good food, I slept very well, and I was living in one of the nicest and most pleasant cities. I can only be thankful. :)

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Birthday Travels

Since 2014, I have been spending my birthdays at a beach destination far away from the city. Although this isn't something my parents necessarily appreciate and my friends exactly understand, I feel good about staring out at the sea with the wind blowing on my face as I celebrate my personal new year. Selfish, maybe, but people always wish each other "an amazing/awesome/great/happy birthday", so I'm just fulfilling their wishes.

As most significant life events, it wasn't planned but was a result of a situation -- a coincidence if you may. My bestfriend was coming home to the Philippines for Christmas in 2014 and wanted to make time for a beach trip. It just turned out that my birthday weekend was the most ideal for both our schedules. So we decided on a location, made minimal plans, and pushed through even with an impending storm. After that trip, I realized that that's what I want to do every year.

The first year

In 2014, I went to a surfing town called Baler with my high school bestfriend who now lives in London and whom I see every couple of years but frequently talk with. Apart from the first night's accommodation and travel directions, we didn't really plan for anything else. We stayed along Sabang beach, the main tourist area, at a cheap lodging I found online and made plans as hours went by, which included an afternoon nap, a surfing session, bicycle-hunting, and a DIY tour. It was both our first time in the area (and our first time travelling together) so there were lots of things to be excited about.

On the morning of my birthday, we woke up early to catch the sunrise, strolling along the dark empty beach and staring meditatively out at the sea (well I did). The wind blew strong, the clouds threatened with rain, and the sun failed to display itself. Nevertheless, I felt good being up and about early enough and being with good company. On the way back to our lodge, we were drawn to a small local bakery by the smell of baked goods. We decided to buy mini-cupcakes and mini-candles with which she and our lodge neighbors sang happy birthday to me.

At dinner, I received my second birthday song when the restaurant staff surprised us with a free birthday dessert of turon ala mode. We were having dinner with our lodge neighbor, Miles, a surfer from California who had a semi-handlebar mustache and who talked about waves travelling for miles and miles before crashing down on a beach and how amazing it is for a surfer to catch that energy. I was actually very tired and zoning in and out of the conversation so I was in a dream-like state when the staff came out singing loudly with a candle to blow out.

As I don't normally get two birthday candles and birthday songs when celebrating in the city, this boded well for my first out-of-town celebration.

I always find myself staring out at the sea whenever faced by it 

Red velvet and kiwi mini-cupcakes with pink and white mini-candles amidst a background of turquoise waters and rolling waves

First of two birthday songs c/o a long-time friend and a day-old friend

The succeeding years

A hand-made birhday cake

The following year, I decided to do the same but with a little more planning. In 2015, I went on a 3-day road trip to Northern Luzon with a good friend from college whom I had recently re-connected with. She learned that I had spent the past year travelling and wanted to try the same. We stayed three nights at three different destinations (Vigan, Pagudpud, La Union), making countless stops along the way, including a star-studded and surreal one at the Bangui Windmills, and driving 6-8 hours in between. On the eve of my birthday, I was sitting by myself at a quiet corner in the hostel when a group started singing happy birthday. Although secretly hoping, I instantly knew that it wasn't intended for me and that made me feel very strange -- indifference trying to keep the feeling of loneliness at bay. Nevertheless, I did get a birthday cake, which my friend drew on the sand, and a birthday sunset amidst the crashing waves.

Towards the end of our 2nd 7-hour drive, we stopped at Bangui in pitch-black darkness beneath a star-studded and gas-clouded night sky while the gigantic windmills loudly burred in the background.

In 2016, I went on a weekend trip to Pundaquit, Zambales with a college blockmate whom I always make time to bond with. I invited her to come away with me, wanting to have company and to catch up with her. We boarded a bus at Kamias, transferred to another one at Olongapo, chartered a tricycle at San Antonio, and walked 100m along the beach to our almost-private beach cottage. The following night, we waited for December 5 with drinks on the table, just talking and sharing stories, switching between life, love, and laughs. The waves rolled by, stars faded in and out, and rain showered softly throughout midnight before we decided to turn in. There was neither cake nor song and it didn't feel celebratory but it was the best I could hope for.

We found ourselves beside a fishing village that thrives on both fish catch and island-hopper traffic. The vibe was the opposite of party but it was a good venue for escaping internal and external noise.

The previous year

This 2017 felt quite different as I have been living in an island for a month prior with my old man (not referring to my dad but he does act like my dad at times). There was no beach escape to plan and no friend to anticipate. Also, unlike the previous years, I was quite busy with work and couldn't afford a full-day celebration. Nevertheless, I was at the beach, gazing at the sunset, without an ensuing back-to-the-city trip.

I spent the morning doing as much work as I can focus on before slipping into a dress I specifically brought for this day and discreetly slipping out of the house. I daintily hopped onto the back of a motorcycle and rushed to the dive center, hoping to catch my freedive buddies and share with them the birthday Mango Float cake I hastily made the previous night. They happily greeted me and the four of us enjoyed my homemade cake (the only food I am confident enough to feed to other people). Afterwards, me and my old man sat by the beach just in time for sunset during which I started telling him about my previous birthday celebrations and how different the year's celebration felt. Shortly after, he excused himself to dress for dinner so I was able to enjoy my cocktails, online birthday greetings and brief chats with old friends.

With the absence of travel, my celebratory plan was to get drunk on happy hour cocktails and laugh the night away. It wasn't the best idea or a mature one and maybe I should stick with discovering a new beach the next time.

*****

Now that I am no longer basing myself in the city, situations similar to 2017's will likely become more normal...and that's a good thing. Though my celebrations don't come with a blast and a lot of excitement, it is what feels right and meaningful. However, I still don't recommend completely isolating yourself on the day when you want to feel loved.

Detours and Happy Delays

When I was planning my itinerary, I originally scheduled to arrive in Siargao on 9 April, Day 7 of the trip. But a lot has happened along the way that I have managed to arrive only on Day 16. There were pleasant and unpleasant people, comfortable and uncomfortable beds, disappointing and amazing views; but needless to say, there was no shortage of unanticipated events that kept me stretching my stays and delaying my arrivals. I took my time going from one place to another and that definitely made a big difference.

I travelled to 5 cities/municipalities as a detour before arriving at Siargao. It was an opportunity not only to discover another part of Mindanao, a place I know to possess wonders but outshone by threats, but also to broaden my comfort zone, in places I know little about and with dialects I can vaguely understand.

Most people also know very little about these places. My account may not present these places as attractive tour destinations, but maybe we don't have to be tourists all the time -- but just plainly visitors.

1. Butuan City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Julian's Inn

Dined: Julian's Garage, The Watershed

Visited: Balanghai Shrine Museum, Butuan National Museum, Rizal Plaza, St. Joseph Cathedral, Agusan River, Magallanes Shrine

I started off with Butuan City not because I knew it to be an exciting city but because someone said in the Internet that flights to Butuan City are cheaper than to Surigao City. I went around the tourist spots and I can say that the city appeals mostly to Philippine history and archaeology enthusiasts as the excavation site of the balangays, and to residents of surrounding cities/municipalities as a trade and commercial center.

I stayed at Julian's Inn, a popular lodging for travelling salesmen because of its budget decent accommodation and recreational drinking & karaoke outlets. I did laptop work in the morning and roamed the city in the afternoon. On one occasion, I hitched a ride with one of the salesmen who sold contraceptives across the CARAGA region and was heading my same direction. I would have wanted to stay longer at Julian's Inn just for the available internet connection, but thought the Enchanted River in Hinatuan to be more interesting.

Took a ferry ride along the Agusan River to the Historic Town of Magallanes (where the First Catholic Church in the country was supposedly erected)

2. Hinatuan

Stayed: 1 night @ Marky's Hostel

Dined: Villa Juanita

Visited: Enchanted River, Hinatuan Children's Park

Hinatuan was a miss and a hit -- I started off losing all delight for the place but ended up planning my return trip.

Marky's Hostel was a miss. Tired, hungry, and hot, I was greeted upfront with an inquiry on why I didn't bring my boyfriend along so that I didn't have to travel alone. I have always hated this question and although I have a good long explanation, I merely responded with what I think was a shy smile. Followed by a failed search for satisfying food and of interesting people, I resolved to sleep the rest of the day away.

Villa Juanita was a hit. Hoping to get just a decent meal, I found cable TV, an airy dining area, and a soul-sister. We made conversation about her reckless travel to Marawi City where kidnapping was a way of life, about her success goal of establishing a bed n' breakfast in Hinatuan, about her disconnect with friends whose issues currently revolve around family life, and about her efforts toward sustainable and mindful tourism for the Enchanted River. We talked for two hours before I needed to leave for Bislig City and I have been planning ever since how to meet up with her again.

I also went to Enchanted River and spent at most two hours there trying to dive. Water was not as clear as expected because of rain the night before and the place was packed as early as 6am. I suggest taking a boat tour for P150/hr per boat to get away from the crowd and to explore the river further.

Rainy morning at the Enchanted River which meant water wasn't as clear as expected but still clear nonetheless

3. Bislig City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Casa de Babano Pension House

Dined: Casa de Babano Restaurant, Tea Avenue

Visited: Tinuy-An Falls, Ocean View Park, International Doll Museum

Bislig City was the first of extended stays that I did for this trip, not because it was such a lovely place for a visit but because it was just comfortable enough.

Tinuy-An falls was amazing and photogenic but it serves as a common picnic destination for locals. The crowd, the very very rough road, and the cost of getting there may not be worthwhile except for a full-day bonding session. Ocean View Park is a restaurant atop a hill and overlooking the bay. I think it makes a good dinner place for locals especially with the very few restaurants in the city. The International Doll Museum houses an immense collection of dolls, representing most countries in the world and with varying levels of appeal. It was meant to impart a sense of "seeing the world" through the national costumes of the dolls but I think a thorough commentary should have come with the expensive display.

Oddly, the spot I enjoyed the most in Bislig City was Tea Avenue, a local tea shop with power outlets and good Wi-Fi. I was able to sit down with my laptop and coffee for hours. Even though two guys eventually approached and made conversation with the goal of obtaining my full name and contact information, I was able to get some work done and chat with friends. I walked out on them after they kept insisting I have family issues for choosing to travel alone and then continued working and chatting with friends back at the pension house.

The majestic Tinuy-An Falls, a bit crowded but still amazing

4. Tandag City

Stayed: 4 nights @ Nico's Garden Park

Dined: Nico's Garden Park

Visited: Green Falls, Villa Azarcon, Boulevard

Supposedly a one-night stop-over to Surigao City, I ended up staying in Tandag City for 3+1 nights. I didn't do much and I didn't see much but against my host family's notion, I did enjoy my time in the city.

Upon the recommendation of my Hinatuan soul-sister, I stayed at Nico's Garden Park, and that really made the difference. I was received very warmly by the family like a family friend, instead of a stranger. They shared with me aspirations for the entertainment park. They brought me along to business trips and fun trips. They introduced me to their friends. They let me sing karaoke without judgments. And to top it all off, I slept at a small cottage directly in front of the beach where the waves never stopped to serenade me.

I would be happy to just have a private room in front of the beach, and having people who don't know me accommodate me so graciously made it perfect.

A view of the sea and a chorus of waves from my little cottage by the beach

5. Surigao City

Stayed: 1 night @ Firma's Lodge, 1 night @ Miami City Suites, 2 nights @ Pope John XXIII Pastoral Center
Dined: One Hive Hotel & Suites, Mooon Cafe
Visited: None

Originally planning to head to Siargao immediately upon arrival at Surigao City, I decided to stay a few more days to dedicate some time on work and to avoid the weekend crowd in Siargao. The city doesn't immediately appear to be an interesting one but it actually serves as a jump-off point to a lot of adventure destinations.

I hopped from one accommodation to another in search of budget accommodation, comfortable rooms, and usable wifi. Firma's Lodge was the best budget place I found. The rooms were small with poor ventilation and no extra power outlets but the building was clean and new. Miami City Suites was the best deal I got at a promo rate of Php600 for AC, private toilet, and wifi. But the rate was still too much for my daily budget and it was too comfortable for my own good so I needed to move. The Pastoral Center was an unlikely accommodation option recommended by a tourism officer. I managed to get a double AC room for half the price primarily because I showed up really sweaty with my big backpack.

I didn't do much apart from work and I didn't see much apart from my accommodations, but in more than occasion, I found myself smiling to myself and hopping along, probably out of comfort and satisfaction.

*****
16 days after, I finally got myself to Siargao. The past 2 weeks was already an adventure I never imagined but the succeeding 2 weeks is just overwhelming. This is what travel means to me and I hope people can appreciate it.

Butuan City Travel Guide

Essentially invisible to a tourist's radar, Butuan is a bustling city steeped in Philippine History. The fact that 12th century seafaring boats have been excavated here and the notion that the first Catholic mass may have been celebrated here may not interest most people. However, like the balanghai mother boat that was recently dug up in 2012, Butuan's golden treasures and pioneering adventures still remains to be discovered.

Spots to Visit in Butuan City

1. Balanghai Shrine Museum

Admission: Free

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport. Tell the driver that you're going to the Balanghai Shrine Museum so that he can drop you off at the intersection in Brgy. Libertad. Take a tricycle (Php8) to the museum. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 15-20 mins to the museum, following the main street and keeping right when you reach the junction with a basketball court. Taking the right-hand fork leads to a river, a hanging bridge, and a hill where the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines was supposedly held.

Why Go Here

See an actual balangay and understand how Butuan City came about. This history of the City, as well as of international trading in the Philippines, is closely connected to the existence of the balangays. Also, see a wooden coffin up close including the skulls and treasures that used to be inside them.

Coffins were found alongside the balangays and skeletons were found inside these.	Can you tell which skull is of an older person's and why?

A balangay is a wooden watercraft that is evidence of the Filipino craftsmanship and seamanship during pre-colonial times. It is built with planks of hardwood, wooden pegs, grass ropes, and tree resin (for sealing) and usually measure 15 meters in length and 3 meters in width.The boats were normally used for trade across Southeast Asia as early as the 12th century, way before the arrival of Magellan in the Philippines in the 15th century.

2. National Museum

Admission: Php20

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport and get off at Gaisano. At the tricycle terminal (Php8), ask for one that can take you to the National Museum. The tricycle will drive northwest and circle around the City Hall which is at a big rotunda. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 30mins to the museum, following the northwest road opposite Gaisano and crossing the street to the National Museum just before you reach the City Hall rotunda.

Note: The National Museum is currently closed for renovation and expansion but some exhibits may still be available for viewing upon proper permission.

Why Go Here

See a depiction of what a balangay might have really looked like. The balangay is believed to be used not only for trading but also for carrying an entire barangay of people. Also, understand the agriculture and fishing heritage of Butuan and of the other ethnolinguistic groups.

3. Magallanes Shrine

Admission: Free

Directions: Take an R4 multicab (Php8) headed to Butuan City. Tell the driver that you are headed to the PPA Ferry Terminal so he can drop you off at the intersection by the Post Office. Walk towards the tricycle terminal with a small basketball court. This leads directly to the entrance of the Ferry Terminal. Register your name and age and get on the ferry (Php25, 45mins).

Why Go Here

Cruise along the Agusan River pass by more archaeological sites and scenic landscapes. Sites located directly beside the river include the Banza Church ruins, the Balangay boat building site (with an actual-sized balangay on display), ship building yards, and abandoned factories. Also, watch the sunset from the Magallanes Shrine Plaza as it disappears behind the open sea.

A rusty barge is docked at what seems like an old shipyard	A factory with its three chimneys visible without smoke
Magallanes Plaza fronting Magellan Shrine and facing west	A ferry on the way back to Butuan a little before sunset

Suggested Itinerary

With cheaper flights and city comforts, Butuan is an ideal stop-over before going to Siargao. The city-center can easily be explored within a day following the itinerary below:

5:30   ETD Manila-Butuan

8:00   Check-in at preferred accommodation

9:00   Balanghai Shrine Museum

10:30 Butuan National Museum

12:00 Lunch/free time

16:30 Ferry to Magallanes

18:00 Ferry back to Butuan City

Estimated Budget

Particulars	Rate per Person
Multicab from Bancasi Airport to city-center	Php20
Tricycle from city-center to accommodation	Php8
Multicab from city-center to Brgy. Libertad	Php8
Tricycle to Balanghai Shrine Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to Gaisano	Php8
Tricycle to National Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to PPA Ferry Terminal	Php8
Ferry to Magallanes	Php25
Ferry to Butuan	Php25
Tricycle to city-center	Php8
Total	Php142

Not included: Meals, Accommodation, Flight

Other Things to do in Butuan City

1. Trek to Tagnote Falls in Remedios T. Romualdez

2. Climb Mt. Hilong-Hilong

3. Watch the Butuanons at the local Rizal Park

4. Sample local bread at Tokaido Bakery and Hayashi Breads