(Big) Island Hopping

From the powdery beaches of Boracay to the familiar boulevard of Dumaguete

Travel date: 17-30 July 2019
Destinations: Kalibo, Boracay Island, Mararison Island, Iloilo City, Bacolod City, Dumaguete City
Images: Gregg Yan

At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background

At the height of Habagat season, we agreed to take two weeks off to cross the island of Panay in Western Visayas towards Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. I would have done it solo, as usual, but since a few moons ago, adventures and excursions have become a pleasant joint affair.

Melt-in-your-mouth oysters for lunch

Our adventure started in Kalibo, the almost-city capital of Aklan province. I met him at the arrival gate just as the torrential rain stopped and let his plane disembark. We then walked a couple hundred meters, dodging puddles and tourist vans, to catch a late dinner and beer. The following day, we negotiated a tricycle ride (aka the taxis of the old that would bring you literally anywhere at the right price) to New Washington where I almost cried eating melt-in-your-mouth fresh oysters.

Oysters are filter feeders that eat plankton and algae. They are a low-trophic type of seafood, which means that they sit very low on the food chain and are sustainable and low-impact sources of food. Although plant-based food will always be my go-to, locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food is the higher goal.

Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white sand in Boracay Island

Switching to beach mode

Later in the afternoon, I found myself in awe (for the nth time) of White Beach in Boracay. The wind was blowing strongly, the sand was white and powdery as ever, the waves rolled in one after the other, and my eyes twinkled and smiled in a heart-shaped manner. The carpet of tourists that stretched from Station 1 to 3 even added to its appeal and energy.

For the next seven days, we got out of bed late, walked 10,000 steps, ate both cheaply and expensively, sought random adventures, and drank beer before bed. Laptop work was pushed to the back-burner, but only because internet was not available where it should be.

On most afternoons, we headed out to White Beach and played like kids, either in the water or on the sand. On others, we walked into luxury resorts and enjoyed their amenities, sometimes with a resort fee and sometimes for free.

One high-energy activity that we did though, was horse-back riding. We trotted across golfing hills and galloped down beach coves -- by "we" I mean "95% him, 1% me, and 4% our guide". It was my real first experience and it didn't seem as scary or dangerous as I thought. I also didn't expect it to be extremely exhausting.

A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island

Tiny but terrible Mararison

By day 9, heavy rains have descended onto the paradise island. Luckily, we were already on the move towards the tiny island of Mararison in Antique.

Accessible from Culasi Port via a 20-minute boat ride, Mararison* Island (aka Malalison Island) is a 55-hectare hook-shaped picturesque island that features rolling hills, white sand beaches, marine sanctuaries, and a welcoming community. It offers a feast for outdoorsmen and nature lovers with its varied hiking trails, long stretches of sand, and protected snorkelling sites, not to mention it has a cave, a lake, an islet, a solar power plant, and mobile and internet signal.

After asking about local celebrities who have visited and of local spots to check out, we followed Ate Jiji to catch the sunset from Lantawan Peak, all the while badgering her with a million questions and a thousand photographs. She shared both her personal history and her island's history while we posed on steep slopes and beside pitcher plants.

The following morning, we were up and about way before my set alarm. We set out to comb the entire beach for sea glass**, finding some rare colors, and ended up walking over marble boulders at the other side of the island. On the way, we saw kids burying each other in the sand, so-called "jackstones" that break down incoming waves, a washed-up porcupine fish with pouty lips, and several typhoon-damaged house ruins.

*"Mararison" also translates to "the naughty kid/sibling" in the local dialect. Mararison Island is part of a trio of small islands located west off the coast of Antique, together with Maniquin Island and Batbatan Island. It is presumably "the naughtiest" of the three island-siblings.

**Sea glass refers to shards of broken glass that have been weathered by the sea, thus acquiring a frosted appearance and smoothened edges.

I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique

Quickie in the city

After a 6-hour, semi-comfortable, stop-and-go ride aboard a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus, we arrived at our internet- and cable-equipped, white linen-dressed, standard hotel room in Iloilo City. It was an opportunity to catch up with some laptop work and to get some quality sleep, but only for the next 15 hours.

Newspaper hunting in inasal country

Despite the battering rain, we managed to get a taxi to the fastcraft terminal in Iloilo City. The two-hour fastcraft ride to Bacolod City seemed out-of-budget at Php300, but it does include a free movie chosen by whichever midshipman has the remote. In this case, it was Alita: The Battle Angel.

Arriving at Bacolod City, our priorities shifted between getting lunch and finding a newspaper -- both ridiculously difficult goals at that time -- before running out of buses. It was already 3pm and buses run only until 8pm to Dumaguete, which is at least a further 6 hours away.

Almost synonymous to chicken inasal*, or Filipino grilled chicken, majority (if not all) restaurants in Bacolod City specialized in some variation of chicken inasal, while non-meat dishes were unthinkable. We ended up at Manokan Country, a line of local, independent restaurants all dedicated to the local delicacy. I was already settling for rice and plain soup but thought oysters might be okay. Well, I was immobilized with a stomachache the next day.

While I was saving our table at Manokan Country, he made a run to the local central market where newspapers were allegedly found. This was after checking convenience stores, coffee shops, supermarkets, newspaper stands, and bookstores for that Sunday's issue of the Manila Bulletin, the country's largest English language broadsheet newspaper by circulation. At a time when paper publications are dying and in a region where Panay News dominates, it took a great deal of inconvenience, hustling and asking around to grab one of few copies of Manila Bulletin's Panorama.

With these goals ticked, we settled into our air-conditioned Ceres bus seats and drifted to sleep.

*Inasal, esp. chicken inasal, refers to a method of grilling chicken that originated in the City of Bacolod. Typically, specifically-cut chicken parts are marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar, and annatto then grilled over hot coals, and served with rice, soy sauce, chicken oil, and sinamak.

All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps

A meeting of green minds

It was the start of the week and the end of our trip. Work duties have been knocking so we began to transition back to our work routines. This just meant drinking coffee, getting up before 9am, sitting in a cafe or restaurant somewhere, and typing on our laptops.

Additionally, we met up with friends of mine and friends of his for dinner and drinks. This consisted of people from different backgrounds and hometowns who all ended up in Dumaguete that night, primarily because of environment- and conservation-related work. Over Italian-style mushroom pasta, hard goat cheese, gin and tonic, and the requisite San Miguel beer, we exchanged stories from the wild, from previous travels, and of ridiculous anecdotes. Passion and compassion were shared around without actually being said and it felt very comfortable and familiar.

A few hours later, at the break of dawn, we were back in Manila and having a second round of breakfast at McDonald's.

Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-coloured shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating molluscs [right]

Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddleboard instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails

The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grassy lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow

Sabang Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 23-24 January 2019

Sabang Beach is located two hours northeast of Puerto Princesa City. It is best known as the jump-off point to the Puerto Princesa Underground River, as visitors arrive in vans and right away take a boat to the subterranean river park. However, for those looking for a yet undeveloped beach destination in Palawan (think El Nido 10 years ago), it may be worth staying in Sabang Beach for a night or two.

Although near and accessible enough via well-paved roads from "Puerto" (a nickname for the city and not to be confused with "Puerto Galera" in Mindoro), Sabang somehow missed out on the tourism boom that transformed Coron, El Nido, and most recently, Port Barton. Hotel and restaurant options remain largely local and basic, while electricity remains limited to a few hours after sunset. Evenings are quiet as the couple of bars close up at midnight, along with everything else, and mornings are more so...But mobile signal is strong, and so is the sea breeze and the tropic sun.

From Puerto, I caught the shuttle van to Sabang, as a last escapade in Palawan before moving to Cebu City. My goal was not to see the underground river park but to explore the beach itself, including the mangrove river tour that I just read about.

Sabang beach: brown sugar sand sprinkled with pebbles and seaweed.

Sabang beach doesn't have white powdery sand and swimming isn't safe either. One more thing that it doesn't have though are...crowds and noise.

It helps to mark and to cordon off sea turtle nests for monitoring and fending off dogs and other predators. 

Olive ridley sea turtles are among the 5 species (out of 7) of sea turtles that can be seen in the Philippines. They are much less common than Green and Hawksbill sea turtles and are similarly threatened to become extinct. Protecting their hatching sites helps increase their chances of survival.

Boats anchor off-shore to avoid the crashing waves, though some still set sail depending on need and courage.

When winds are too strong and waves too rough, boat trips get cancelled and so do the underground river tours. On such days, tourist vans don't arrive and tourist boats remain anchored, which might mean a lost payday for some.

Celestino Santander is among the lead guides who also offers "how to paddle for beginners" tours.

About a kilometer away from the tourist landing area, is a century-old mangrove forest and a river running through it. Trained local guides paddle a boat-load of tourists for 20 or so minutes while telling mangrove stories and obligatory semi-relevant jokes.

Paddle Boat Tours cost Php350/pax. Paddle Boat Learning Tours also cost Php350/pax plus a new life skill. They also offer Birdwatching Tours for Php350/pax which starts at 6:30am.

Centuries-old mangrove trees contend for space along the river. Some are male, while some are female. I can't tell which.

Mangroves are extremely valuable and useful but are unfortunately not sexy or exciting enough. I think I first encountered them in the same area during a family trip to the underground river. I remember being curious about their roots that stick out above the water because other trees are not like that.

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Birthday Travels

Since 2014, I have been spending my birthdays at a beach destination far away from the city. Although this isn't something my parents necessarily appreciate and my friends exactly understand, I feel good about staring out at the sea with the wind blowing on my face as I celebrate my personal new year. Selfish, maybe, but people always wish each other "an amazing/awesome/great/happy birthday", so I'm just fulfilling their wishes.

As most significant life events, it wasn't planned but was a result of a situation -- a coincidence if you may. My bestfriend was coming home to the Philippines for Christmas in 2014 and wanted to make time for a beach trip. It just turned out that my birthday weekend was the most ideal for both our schedules. So we decided on a location, made minimal plans, and pushed through even with an impending storm. After that trip, I realized that that's what I want to do every year.

The first year

In 2014, I went to a surfing town called Baler with my high school bestfriend who now lives in London and whom I see every couple of years but frequently talk with. Apart from the first night's accommodation and travel directions, we didn't really plan for anything else. We stayed along Sabang beach, the main tourist area, at a cheap lodging I found online and made plans as hours went by, which included an afternoon nap, a surfing session, bicycle-hunting, and a DIY tour. It was both our first time in the area (and our first time travelling together) so there were lots of things to be excited about.

On the morning of my birthday, we woke up early to catch the sunrise, strolling along the dark empty beach and staring meditatively out at the sea (well I did). The wind blew strong, the clouds threatened with rain, and the sun failed to display itself. Nevertheless, I felt good being up and about early enough and being with good company. On the way back to our lodge, we were drawn to a small local bakery by the smell of baked goods. We decided to buy mini-cupcakes and mini-candles with which she and our lodge neighbors sang happy birthday to me.

At dinner, I received my second birthday song when the restaurant staff surprised us with a free birthday dessert of turon ala mode. We were having dinner with our lodge neighbor, Miles, a surfer from California who had a semi-handlebar mustache and who talked about waves travelling for miles and miles before crashing down on a beach and how amazing it is for a surfer to catch that energy. I was actually very tired and zoning in and out of the conversation so I was in a dream-like state when the staff came out singing loudly with a candle to blow out.

As I don't normally get two birthday candles and birthday songs when celebrating in the city, this boded well for my first out-of-town celebration.

I always find myself staring out at the sea whenever faced by it 

Red velvet and kiwi mini-cupcakes with pink and white mini-candles amidst a background of turquoise waters and rolling waves

First of two birthday songs c/o a long-time friend and a day-old friend

The succeeding years

A hand-made birhday cake

The following year, I decided to do the same but with a little more planning. In 2015, I went on a 3-day road trip to Northern Luzon with a good friend from college whom I had recently re-connected with. She learned that I had spent the past year travelling and wanted to try the same. We stayed three nights at three different destinations (Vigan, Pagudpud, La Union), making countless stops along the way, including a star-studded and surreal one at the Bangui Windmills, and driving 6-8 hours in between. On the eve of my birthday, I was sitting by myself at a quiet corner in the hostel when a group started singing happy birthday. Although secretly hoping, I instantly knew that it wasn't intended for me and that made me feel very strange -- indifference trying to keep the feeling of loneliness at bay. Nevertheless, I did get a birthday cake, which my friend drew on the sand, and a birthday sunset amidst the crashing waves.

Towards the end of our 2nd 7-hour drive, we stopped at Bangui in pitch-black darkness beneath a star-studded and gas-clouded night sky while the gigantic windmills loudly burred in the background.

In 2016, I went on a weekend trip to Pundaquit, Zambales with a college blockmate whom I always make time to bond with. I invited her to come away with me, wanting to have company and to catch up with her. We boarded a bus at Kamias, transferred to another one at Olongapo, chartered a tricycle at San Antonio, and walked 100m along the beach to our almost-private beach cottage. The following night, we waited for December 5 with drinks on the table, just talking and sharing stories, switching between life, love, and laughs. The waves rolled by, stars faded in and out, and rain showered softly throughout midnight before we decided to turn in. There was neither cake nor song and it didn't feel celebratory but it was the best I could hope for.

We found ourselves beside a fishing village that thrives on both fish catch and island-hopper traffic. The vibe was the opposite of party but it was a good venue for escaping internal and external noise.

The previous year

This 2017 felt quite different as I have been living in an island for a month prior with my old man (not referring to my dad but he does act like my dad at times). There was no beach escape to plan and no friend to anticipate. Also, unlike the previous years, I was quite busy with work and couldn't afford a full-day celebration. Nevertheless, I was at the beach, gazing at the sunset, without an ensuing back-to-the-city trip.

I spent the morning doing as much work as I can focus on before slipping into a dress I specifically brought for this day and discreetly slipping out of the house. I daintily hopped onto the back of a motorcycle and rushed to the dive center, hoping to catch my freedive buddies and share with them the birthday Mango Float cake I hastily made the previous night. They happily greeted me and the four of us enjoyed my homemade cake (the only food I am confident enough to feed to other people). Afterwards, me and my old man sat by the beach just in time for sunset during which I started telling him about my previous birthday celebrations and how different the year's celebration felt. Shortly after, he excused himself to dress for dinner so I was able to enjoy my cocktails, online birthday greetings and brief chats with old friends.

With the absence of travel, my celebratory plan was to get drunk on happy hour cocktails and laugh the night away. It wasn't the best idea or a mature one and maybe I should stick with discovering a new beach the next time.

*****

Now that I am no longer basing myself in the city, situations similar to 2017's will likely become more normal...and that's a good thing. Though my celebrations don't come with a blast and a lot of excitement, it is what feels right and meaningful. However, I still don't recommend completely isolating yourself on the day when you want to feel loved.

Pundaquit, San Antonio, Zambales

4-5 December 2016

Brgy. Pundaquit is a small fishing village in San Antonio in Zambales that is more popularly known as the jump-off point to camping destinations Anawangin Cove and Capones Island. Although normally overlooked in favor of uninhabited coves and a century-old lighthouse, Pundaquit features a soft mix of rural living among the fishermen and of touristy escapades with the arriving tourists that is set in its own sunset-facing semi-cove.

Typical fishing boats line the beach in the morning as some fisherman prepare their nets [far right] while others sort out the previous night's catch [middle center].

 Two fishermen aboard "07 Rhea Mhey" lay down their nets just in front of the shore while the first group of tourists boat away to their destination [background center].

Even from the other side of the cove, tourists can be identified by their mandatory neon orange life vests. This group left at 7am on a Monday.

Passenger boats and fishing boats anchor alongside each other as boatmen either wait for new passengers to arrive or for the mid-afternoon to pass.

From one side of the cove, Camara Island overlays against Capones Island, offering a nice gradient of islets under the mid-day sun. A female holiday-maker documents her trip in the foreground.

Nipa huts equipped with bamboo tables & seating and karaoke sets line the path from the parking area to the beach and are mostly popular among day-trippers and locals.

Lying along the Zambales coastline, Pundaquit also offers seasonal surfing and features left-handed waves, after which the Look Left community resort was named. Capones Island can be seen in the distance.

Lastly, Pundaquit lies at the foot of the Zambales Mountain Range and offers views of both the mountains and the sea, including some islets and a sunset.

Bonus: 

A 15-minute tricycle ride from the beach is the town center of San Antonio where a local fair reminiscent of childhood 20-peso thrill rides, which threaten to fall apart anytime, are setup on occasions.