(Big) Island Hopping

From the powdery beaches of Boracay to the familiar boulevard of Dumaguete

Travel date: 17-30 July 2019
Destinations: Kalibo, Boracay Island, Mararison Island, Iloilo City, Bacolod City, Dumaguete City
Images: Gregg Yan

At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background

At the height of Habagat season, we agreed to take two weeks off to cross the island of Panay in Western Visayas towards Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. I would have done it solo, as usual, but since a few moons ago, adventures and excursions have become a pleasant joint affair.

Melt-in-your-mouth oysters for lunch

Our adventure started in Kalibo, the almost-city capital of Aklan province. I met him at the arrival gate just as the torrential rain stopped and let his plane disembark. We then walked a couple hundred meters, dodging puddles and tourist vans, to catch a late dinner and beer. The following day, we negotiated a tricycle ride (aka the taxis of the old that would bring you literally anywhere at the right price) to New Washington where I almost cried eating melt-in-your-mouth fresh oysters.

Oysters are filter feeders that eat plankton and algae. They are a low-trophic type of seafood, which means that they sit very low on the food chain and are sustainable and low-impact sources of food. Although plant-based food will always be my go-to, locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food is the higher goal.

Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white sand in Boracay Island

Switching to beach mode

Later in the afternoon, I found myself in awe (for the nth time) of White Beach in Boracay. The wind was blowing strongly, the sand was white and powdery as ever, the waves rolled in one after the other, and my eyes twinkled and smiled in a heart-shaped manner. The carpet of tourists that stretched from Station 1 to 3 even added to its appeal and energy.

For the next seven days, we got out of bed late, walked 10,000 steps, ate both cheaply and expensively, sought random adventures, and drank beer before bed. Laptop work was pushed to the back-burner, but only because internet was not available where it should be.

On most afternoons, we headed out to White Beach and played like kids, either in the water or on the sand. On others, we walked into luxury resorts and enjoyed their amenities, sometimes with a resort fee and sometimes for free.

One high-energy activity that we did though, was horse-back riding. We trotted across golfing hills and galloped down beach coves -- by "we" I mean "95% him, 1% me, and 4% our guide". It was my real first experience and it didn't seem as scary or dangerous as I thought. I also didn't expect it to be extremely exhausting.

A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island

Tiny but terrible Mararison

By day 9, heavy rains have descended onto the paradise island. Luckily, we were already on the move towards the tiny island of Mararison in Antique.

Accessible from Culasi Port via a 20-minute boat ride, Mararison* Island (aka Malalison Island) is a 55-hectare hook-shaped picturesque island that features rolling hills, white sand beaches, marine sanctuaries, and a welcoming community. It offers a feast for outdoorsmen and nature lovers with its varied hiking trails, long stretches of sand, and protected snorkelling sites, not to mention it has a cave, a lake, an islet, a solar power plant, and mobile and internet signal.

After asking about local celebrities who have visited and of local spots to check out, we followed Ate Jiji to catch the sunset from Lantawan Peak, all the while badgering her with a million questions and a thousand photographs. She shared both her personal history and her island's history while we posed on steep slopes and beside pitcher plants.

The following morning, we were up and about way before my set alarm. We set out to comb the entire beach for sea glass**, finding some rare colors, and ended up walking over marble boulders at the other side of the island. On the way, we saw kids burying each other in the sand, so-called "jackstones" that break down incoming waves, a washed-up porcupine fish with pouty lips, and several typhoon-damaged house ruins.

*"Mararison" also translates to "the naughty kid/sibling" in the local dialect. Mararison Island is part of a trio of small islands located west off the coast of Antique, together with Maniquin Island and Batbatan Island. It is presumably "the naughtiest" of the three island-siblings.

**Sea glass refers to shards of broken glass that have been weathered by the sea, thus acquiring a frosted appearance and smoothened edges.

I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique

Quickie in the city

After a 6-hour, semi-comfortable, stop-and-go ride aboard a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus, we arrived at our internet- and cable-equipped, white linen-dressed, standard hotel room in Iloilo City. It was an opportunity to catch up with some laptop work and to get some quality sleep, but only for the next 15 hours.

Newspaper hunting in inasal country

Despite the battering rain, we managed to get a taxi to the fastcraft terminal in Iloilo City. The two-hour fastcraft ride to Bacolod City seemed out-of-budget at Php300, but it does include a free movie chosen by whichever midshipman has the remote. In this case, it was Alita: The Battle Angel.

Arriving at Bacolod City, our priorities shifted between getting lunch and finding a newspaper -- both ridiculously difficult goals at that time -- before running out of buses. It was already 3pm and buses run only until 8pm to Dumaguete, which is at least a further 6 hours away.

Almost synonymous to chicken inasal*, or Filipino grilled chicken, majority (if not all) restaurants in Bacolod City specialized in some variation of chicken inasal, while non-meat dishes were unthinkable. We ended up at Manokan Country, a line of local, independent restaurants all dedicated to the local delicacy. I was already settling for rice and plain soup but thought oysters might be okay. Well, I was immobilized with a stomachache the next day.

While I was saving our table at Manokan Country, he made a run to the local central market where newspapers were allegedly found. This was after checking convenience stores, coffee shops, supermarkets, newspaper stands, and bookstores for that Sunday's issue of the Manila Bulletin, the country's largest English language broadsheet newspaper by circulation. At a time when paper publications are dying and in a region where Panay News dominates, it took a great deal of inconvenience, hustling and asking around to grab one of few copies of Manila Bulletin's Panorama.

With these goals ticked, we settled into our air-conditioned Ceres bus seats and drifted to sleep.

*Inasal, esp. chicken inasal, refers to a method of grilling chicken that originated in the City of Bacolod. Typically, specifically-cut chicken parts are marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar, and annatto then grilled over hot coals, and served with rice, soy sauce, chicken oil, and sinamak.

All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps

A meeting of green minds

It was the start of the week and the end of our trip. Work duties have been knocking so we began to transition back to our work routines. This just meant drinking coffee, getting up before 9am, sitting in a cafe or restaurant somewhere, and typing on our laptops.

Additionally, we met up with friends of mine and friends of his for dinner and drinks. This consisted of people from different backgrounds and hometowns who all ended up in Dumaguete that night, primarily because of environment- and conservation-related work. Over Italian-style mushroom pasta, hard goat cheese, gin and tonic, and the requisite San Miguel beer, we exchanged stories from the wild, from previous travels, and of ridiculous anecdotes. Passion and compassion were shared around without actually being said and it felt very comfortable and familiar.

A few hours later, at the break of dawn, we were back in Manila and having a second round of breakfast at McDonald's.

Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-coloured shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating molluscs [right]

Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddleboard instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails

The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grassy lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow

Feeling Amazing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Travel date: 13 December 2018 - 9 January 2019

Chiang Mai is the largest city in mountainous northern Thailand. It is located 700km north of Bangkok and is surrounded by the highest mountains in the country. Founded in 1296, it replaced Chiang Rai as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna. (Note: Chiang Mai means "New City".)

The city is surrounded by a moat and thick walls, which served as defenses against the threatful Taungoo Dynasty and the invading Mongol Empire. It is home to over 300 elaborate Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep atop Doi Suthep mountain and Wat Phra Singh within the city walls.

Historically, Chiang Mai has significant cultural, trading and economic importance, second only to Bangkok. Presently, it is considered as among the best cities for digital nomads, with its speedy internet, low cost of living, and abundance of things to do.

*****

I came to Chiang Mai from Taiwan as it was the cheapest flight route I found from Taipei. I didn't research much and wasn't expecting anything. Fortunately, Chiang Mai became a very pleasant surprise. I enjoyed its small alleyways, its surrounding waterways, its cold evenings and its vegetarian-friendly eateries. It made me see the Thailand that most other travellers see -- "Amazing Thailand".

I spent most of my time cycling around and exploring small alleys inside and outside of the old city walls. Very confusing at first, I eventually learned to navigate with minimal help from Google Maps to find garden restaurants, small coffee shops, and discreet yoga studios. Every street was interesting and seemed to hide something just waiting to be uncovered.

Crossing the big road towards my guesthouse, the setting sun caught my attention and tempted me to explore further instead of going straight home.

Sometimes, my two wheels bring me to one of the many local markets around the city. I hunt for snacks wrapped in banana leaves, browse through the displays of local vegetables and fruits, and even consider purchasing new handmade clothing and native bags.

The local markets are most alive on mornings with various stalls selling fresh produce, cooked meals, packaged pastries and hot beverages.

With the many vegetarian/vegan eateries around the city, I was never bothered to cook for myself. I felt so spoiled with having a lot of affordable, accessible and delicious options -- even non-vegetarian restaurants offer vegetarian options. I didn't really have to think and plan my meals, a very welcome change to the Philippine scene where I always have to "negotiate". 

Cat House was the first vegan/vegetarian restaurant that I ate at in Chiang Mai. Although a bit pricey, they had a good selection of mains, smoothies and cakes. 

During my stay, I found the opportunity to see and listen to local jazz bands at North Gate Jazz Co-op and at Thapae East. I got the tip from a friendly random over dinner at a small restaurant that wasn't actually my target destination. I'm not really a music person and I can't name a favorite song or genre but jazz is definitely one of those I listen to -- not that I understand what jazz music really is.

At North Gate Jazz Co-op, the crowd definitely enjoyed the high-energy, head-banging but not-ear-ringing music of this band. The passionate expression of their drummer is just a bonus. 

Probably the most touristy thing that I did in Chiang Mai, I signed up with Elephant Nature Park, a group that truly cares for the elephants, to experience a day with a trio of elephants. I spent Christmas Day endlessly feeding them with bananas and walking them up a hill and then back down to the river along with their actual caretakers-slash-brothers and other visitors from the US, Taiwan and Latvia.

The mother elephant greedily takes as much bananas as is offered to her, not minding her two daughters right beside her. Although they protect each other, elephants don't share food. 

On some mornings, I cycled through the early morning chill to join the local group of yoga practitioners for a free session at the park. The group composed of international yoga teachers who are living in or just passing by Chiang Mai and who are volunteering to lead public yoga sessions at most twice daily for free. It was a different experience practicing yoga at a public open space instead of in a private studio.

Unlike in the controlled environment of a yoga studio, peace and quiet is a game of chance at the park. In one session, motorized grass-cutters provided our ambient music.

My last couple of days in Chiang Mai luckily coincided with Monk Chat's weekly overnight meditation retreat. Held on Tuesdays till Wednesdays, their Buddhist meditation retreat is perfect for newbies who might not be up to the challenge of 10-day and 21-day silent retreats. Although I can go days without talking to anyone, I still found it difficult and awkward and I couldn't meditate anymore by the morning.

Guided by Phra KK, we practised seating, walking, standing and lying down meditation. It was my second exposure to meditation during which I had moments of feeling "high".

Towards the end of my stay in Chiang Mai, I realized how happy I have been for the past couple of months. I met some really inspiring people, I ate so much good food, I slept very well, and I was living in one of the nicest and most pleasant cities. I can only be thankful. :)

I Feel Like a New Person...Again

In the past year, I made several conscious changes with regards to how I live my life and how I make an impact. I continued to assume a digital nomad lifestyle, which meant working from wherever my laptop is and being based wherever my backpack is. Also, I switched to a vegetarian diet wherein I no longer eat red meat (pork, beef), white meat (chicken) and seafood (fish, shells), as well as eggs and milk. Lastly, I started to pursue a zero-waste lifestyle by refusing single-use plastics (straws, cups, bags) and by buying from public markets instead of from supermarkets.

With these changes, I felt more aligned with my personal values. And this is probably the first time that I stopped considering "what I should be doing" and accepted that "what I want to be doing" is entirely different.

Living Nomadic

A few years ago, I made the decision to travel full-time and to live locally (rather than touristy) wherever I am. I realized that nothing actually required me to stay in Manila. I was already working remotely with no physical office I had to report to, and I was single and unattached with no one to part from. Also, I had a surplus of savings, no debts to pay and no dependents to support. It was an ideal setup.

My initial plan was to "test whether I really can build a sustainable travel lifestyle". I began by going on one-month multi-country trips, staying back in Manila for a few months to work, going out again for a month or so, and then staying back again for a longer period than I was out. But that wasn't full-time travelling and I felt dissatisfied with my half-assed attempt.

So I made a follow-up decision to make an all-out attempt and see where my guts and my savings can really take me. I travelled within the country without a return date, picking out destinations I haven't been to and making plans along the way. At several points, my account balance approached zero but I was always saved by friends or new-found friends without them knowing it.

Most recently, I have been able to stay out of Manila for a year -- albeit with quick visits in between. I rented apartments and lived with other travellers, becoming a local expat myself. I spent most days working on my laptop out of coffee shops but found time on off-days to explore a bit farther or to soak up the local sun.

Currently, I am making another decision to continue moving and resist the temptation of staying. Although travelling asks me to give up the comfort of familiarity and of knowing what to expect on an almost daily basis, it nevertheless empowers me to pursue the life that I feel most comfortable with.

FAQs

Where are you going next?
In two days, I am due to fly to Taiwan and then to Thailand where I will end and start the year. As my Filipino passport is only allowed 14 days in Taiwan, I will do a "visa run" to Chiang Mai just so I can spend about 30 days exploring Taiwan, specifically Kaohsiung, Kenting, Meinong, Tainan and Taipei. Afterwards, I will gauge whether I want to stay in Chiang Mai, which is one of the digital nomad capitals in the world, or move out to a quieter area in Thailand.

Where are you from?
When travelling abroad, I say that I'm from the Philippines. Easy. When travelling within the Philippines, I normally say that I'm from Manila, just because that's where I have lived the longest (about a decade). However, I spent my childhood in Laguna and my teenhood in Batangas (both provinces that are 2-3 hrs south of Manila) although none of my parents or family are from there.

Where do you live?
I live where you currently find me. I am writing this in Manila where I have been living for the past couple of months. But that's going to change in a couple of days.

Outside of Manila and Batangas, I always find it awkward to respond "I live here" when I obviously look like a foreigner or a non-local. I think unless a person is seen as employed in that place, it is difficult to perceive that someone is a local resident.

It was during a solo travel to Moalboal, Cebu that I learned to drive a motorcycle by asking my tricycle driver to teach me. He called me a daring fast-learner as I drove at 60kph along the National Road while he "comfortably" sat at the back.

Switching to Vegetarian

Although growing up with some form of meat always on the table, I don't really have strong attachments to it. I do appreciate its taste and texture but don't enjoy its oiliness and heaviness. Eventually, I started questioning my reasons for eating meat (out of habit and culture) and started looking for ways to replace meat from my plate but couldn't find any. As compromise, I opted for chicken or fish, thinking that those are healthier and pose less impact, but continued to feel dissatisfied, thinking that there must be another alternative.

Fortunately, I ended up living with vegan/vegetarians and learned from them how easy and practical it is to maintain a vegetarian diet. We bought common vegetables (tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, bell peppers, sayote, monggo) from the local market and simply cooked them into a stir-fry or curry. We ate a whole food, plant-based diet every day and all meals were delicious and nutritious without ever feeling bloated or weak, or missing meat.

I discovered a whole new world of vegetarian eating. I learned about quinoa, lentils, and Vegemite and experimented with vegan banana pancakes and avocado toasts. I realized that there are so much more (and more flavorful) choices beyond pork adobo, grilled chicken and fried fish, and that lots of common dishes can be made vegetarian by simply leaving out the meat/seafood component (e.g. tinola, sinigang, kare-kare).

Whilst feeding myself remains a daily struggle (which it has always been), I know I will never go back to eating meat. I don't experience cravings and don't consider those as food anymore, especially in the midst of sustainability and climate change issues. Most importantly, I feel in better control of what I eat.

FAQ's

Why did you decide to become vegetarian?
There are numerous reasons for deciding to become vegetarian. The turning point for me was realizing how commercialized and mindless the food industry is. It is motivated solely by profits without regard for anyone's health, well-being and satisfaction. Everything is merely represented by numbers in a spreadsheet whereas food is supposed to be nourishing, valuable and appreciated. Although this is also true about vegetables and fruits, I can at least consume it in its natural form. A carrot looks like a carrot whilst we sometimes miss the connection between sausages and pigs.

Other than that, there's:

• Human do not need to eat meat. We do it for pleasure instead of survival.
• It's easier to handle, store and cook vegetables than chicken and fish.
• Pigs, cows, chickens, fish and seafood are living creatures just like you and me. They are not meant to live and die in factories and farms for our consumption (and pleasure).
• Meat dishes are normally very oily and are more difficult to digest.
• Meat production is no longer sustainable and is among the major contributors to climate change.

How long have you been vegetarian?

I have been vegetarian since April 2017, though not strictly. There were instances that I ate batchoy with pork innards, Wagyu fine steak and tilapia stewed in coconut milk but I don't enjoy it anymore. With the steak specifically, I had a stomachache for a full week.

What exactly do you eat?

When eating out, I go to normal restaurants, but avoid those that specialize in meat-based dishes, e.g. Mang Inasal, Tapa King and Peri-Peri Chicken. I look for vegetable-based dishes and request to leave out the meat bits, if any. For example, chopsuey and pinakbet are vegetable-based but sometimes include shrimp and liver. I don't actually just order salads as those are not full meals. If I'm cooking, I make stir-fry tomato-halves with okra and garlic, stir-fry kangkong with red onions, oatmeal with banana and apple slices, or lentils with stewed tomatoes and carrots.

On the plate: sliced cherry tomatoes, grated beets, grated carrots, pumpkin seeds, diced sweet potatoes, chickpeas, sprouted sunflower seeds, and hummus. This isn't how I eat every day but look at how colorful and diverse a veggie meal can be!

Pursuing Zero-Waste

Probably the most difficult and frustrating of my ideals, pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle requires constant discipline, planning and research. At the same time, I think it is one thing that I should stick to and that everyone should pursue -- and not just consider or tolerate.

To live zero-waste is to aim to generate the least amount of garbage possible so that virtually no trash will end up in landfills, incinerators or the ocean. More than practicing "Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.", for me this means purchasing only what is necessary and many times reusable, and refusing what I will not use even if freely given. This includes purchasing a stainless steel tumbler that I can reuse for my drinking water, hot coffee and fruit shakes, and refusing random giveaways such as notepads and shampoo sachets that I already have too many of.

What makes zero-waste living challenging is that there is an opportunity to generate waste at every move. The toiletries I use, the coffee I drink, the clothes I wear, and even the pen I write with all produce trash that is not recyclable and not compostable. Although I can make simple switches like using shampoo bars instead of bottled shampoos, getting coffee at coffee shops instead of making my own, buying second-hand clothes instead of new ones, and writing with pencils or high quality pens, I am still directly or indirectly generating waste.

Although it may seem pointless to even try, I think it is still necessary not because it might save the world but because it might save us from ourselves. Imagine taking out the garbage once a week instead of everyday, not accumulating paper bags and plastic bags from groceries, having less clutter and more space in the house, and choosing fresh fruits for snacks instead of potato chips.

Admittedly, my zero-waste journey is still far from ideal and may never be. However, I do my best in every situation and will continue doing so, striving a balance between consumption and conservation.

Some simple steps:

• Putting my groceries and purchases in a reusable shopping bag instead of in a paper bag or plastic bag
• Using my receipts as notepads instead of purchasing a notebook (though this might not be professional enough in a business setting)
• Switching to a bamboo toothbrush that is compostable unlike a normal toothbrush with a plastic handle (though the bristles are still synthetic and non-compostable)
• Buying whole fruits without plastic packaging instead of cut-up fruits in plastic trays
• Dining in at restaurants instead of taking out or ordering deliveries
• Switching to a menstrual cup and menstrual cloth pads that are more hygienic and cheaper than sanitary napkins and tampons
• Refusing straws and using my lips instead or requesting for a spoon when consuming thick fruit shakes (straws are really unnecessary and non-essential and wasteful)
• Switching to silicone freezer bags and silicone stretch covers from Ziploc bags and cling wraps
• Refusing any kind of packaging whenever possible, e.g. that clear plastic packaging when purchasing clothes, that carton box when I bought my tumbler
• Buying mobile credits electronically instead of buying a plastic prepaid card in plastic packaging
• Requesting for coffee mugs and metal cutlery instead of consuming food and beverages with paper cups and plastic utensils

Instead of accepting brochures, calling cards and flyers, I take a picture of the information I need. In this way, I have nothing to throw away or to add to my luggage, and it is easier to find and to keep information that may be useful in the future.

*****

Although I do promote them, I made these lifestyle changes not because someone told me to do so but because I see the value in them. My decisions make sense for me, considering what I deem important and acceptable, but not for everyone. And that is okay. My only hope is that for more people to take more active and conscious steps towards what is most meaningful and most valuable for them, even though it may not be the most convenient.