Feeling Amazing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Travel date: 13 December 2018 - 9 January 2019

Chiang Mai is the largest city in mountainous northern Thailand. It is located 700km north of Bangkok and is surrounded by the highest mountains in the country. Founded in 1296, it replaced Chiang Rai as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna. (Note: Chiang Mai means "New City".)

The city is surrounded by a moat and thick walls, which served as defenses against the threatful Taungoo Dynasty and the invading Mongol Empire. It is home to over 300 elaborate Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep atop Doi Suthep mountain and Wat Phra Singh within the city walls.

Historically, Chiang Mai has significant cultural, trading and economic importance, second only to Bangkok. Presently, it is considered as among the best cities for digital nomads, with its speedy internet, low cost of living, and abundance of things to do.

*****

I came to Chiang Mai from Taiwan as it was the cheapest flight route I found from Taipei. I didn't research much and wasn't expecting anything. Fortunately, Chiang Mai became a very pleasant surprise. I enjoyed its small alleyways, its surrounding waterways, its cold evenings and its vegetarian-friendly eateries. It made me see the Thailand that most other travellers see -- "Amazing Thailand".

I spent most of my time cycling around and exploring small alleys inside and outside of the old city walls. Very confusing at first, I eventually learned to navigate with minimal help from Google Maps to find garden restaurants, small coffee shops, and discreet yoga studios. Every street was interesting and seemed to hide something just waiting to be uncovered.

Crossing the big road towards my guesthouse, the setting sun caught my attention and tempted me to explore further instead of going straight home.

Sometimes, my two wheels bring me to one of the many local markets around the city. I hunt for snacks wrapped in banana leaves, browse through the displays of local vegetables and fruits, and even consider purchasing new handmade clothing and native bags.

The local markets are most alive on mornings with various stalls selling fresh produce, cooked meals, packaged pastries and hot beverages.

With the many vegetarian/vegan eateries around the city, I was never bothered to cook for myself. I felt so spoiled with having a lot of affordable, accessible and delicious options -- even non-vegetarian restaurants offer vegetarian options. I didn't really have to think and plan my meals, a very welcome change to the Philippine scene where I always have to "negotiate". 

Cat House was the first vegan/vegetarian restaurant that I ate at in Chiang Mai. Although a bit pricey, they had a good selection of mains, smoothies and cakes. 

During my stay, I found the opportunity to see and listen to local jazz bands at North Gate Jazz Co-op and at Thapae East. I got the tip from a friendly random over dinner at a small restaurant that wasn't actually my target destination. I'm not really a music person and I can't name a favorite song or genre but jazz is definitely one of those I listen to -- not that I understand what jazz music really is.

At North Gate Jazz Co-op, the crowd definitely enjoyed the high-energy, head-banging but not-ear-ringing music of this band. The passionate expression of their drummer is just a bonus. 

Probably the most touristy thing that I did in Chiang Mai, I signed up with Elephant Nature Park, a group that truly cares for the elephants, to experience a day with a trio of elephants. I spent Christmas Day endlessly feeding them with bananas and walking them up a hill and then back down to the river along with their actual caretakers-slash-brothers and other visitors from the US, Taiwan and Latvia.

The mother elephant greedily takes as much bananas as is offered to her, not minding her two daughters right beside her. Although they protect each other, elephants don't share food. 

On some mornings, I cycled through the early morning chill to join the local group of yoga practitioners for a free session at the park. The group composed of international yoga teachers who are living in or just passing by Chiang Mai and who are volunteering to lead public yoga sessions at most twice daily for free. It was a different experience practicing yoga at a public open space instead of in a private studio.

Unlike in the controlled environment of a yoga studio, peace and quiet is a game of chance at the park. In one session, motorized grass-cutters provided our ambient music.

My last couple of days in Chiang Mai luckily coincided with Monk Chat's weekly overnight meditation retreat. Held on Tuesdays till Wednesdays, their Buddhist meditation retreat is perfect for newbies who might not be up to the challenge of 10-day and 21-day silent retreats. Although I can go days without talking to anyone, I still found it difficult and awkward and I couldn't meditate anymore by the morning.

Guided by Phra KK, we practised seating, walking, standing and lying down meditation. It was my second exposure to meditation during which I had moments of feeling "high".

Towards the end of my stay in Chiang Mai, I realized how happy I have been for the past couple of months. I met some really inspiring people, I ate so much good food, I slept very well, and I was living in one of the nicest and most pleasant cities. I can only be thankful. :)

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Solo Travel: Same Same but Different

I remember the time when travelling solo was the scariest thing in the world. There was nothing in particular that I was scared about but I was scared out of my wits. I kept imagining vague scenarios that quickened my pulse and kept me awake.

At the same time, it was also the most exciting thing in the world. It presented a totally novel and insane idea that was so out of my current world. I dreamed of unknown opportunities, destinations, and experiences that outweighed the fears and kept me moving.

When I first explored the idea of solo travel, travelling outside of work obligations and family holidays was a very young concept. Most people travel not out of want but of need while the rest simply had the time and money to spare. In my case, however, I travelled purely because of want and strict budgets have to be set to make it possible.

Because of this, whenever I tell people that I am going somewhere, they find it difficult to understand that I am not doing it for work and that I am neither on a holiday. What's more, I go alone with only my laptop and phone for company. They respond with so much confusion that I tend to question myself as well.

Nevertheless, I do know that travelling solo is something that I sincerely enjoy and am passionate about. While most people turn away from the work of making plans and arrangements for their vacations, I indulge in carefully designing my routes -- uncovering different means of moving from one place to another, searching diligently for prices and fares, and picking out known and unknown locations. To me, the journey matters more than the destination and stepping onto a new place is more breathtaking than the sceneries. It's not uncommon that I suddenly pause with the realization that I am, once again, headed to somewhere unfamiliar.

Now two years since I began my pursuit, I realized that travelling solo no longer scares or excites me. Gone are the wild thoughts and baseless worries that fed my doubts. Gone also are the hopeful anticipation and hazy daydreams that filled me with wonder. Instead, I feel comfort, normality, and familiarity even when arriving for the first time in a country whose language I cannot decode.

Though the experience is markedly different now, the same things that compelled me to travel solo persist still. I may no longer walk around with wide-eyed wonder like a kid in an amusement park, or with paranoid unease for pre-empting mistakes, but each new environment still amazes me and each unknown still worries me. Most importantly, I travel still because I want to expand my comfort zone and to incorporate more places into my personal reality.

Definitely, my preferences and goals will continue to change as I gain more years and experiences. But I am sure that no matter how familiar and unexciting solo travel becomes, it will never stop being amazing and breath-taking (add: insane).

Taken by yelmalab in Batanes, Philippines. Biking is definitely the best way (and most hardworking) way to explore a new location. This trip gave birth to this blog's forerunner, The Hardworking Traveller.

15 Adventures That Made My 2015

2015 was a milestone of sorts. Not only did it officially mark my first year of building a travel lifestyle, but it also saw me a tad bit braver and wiser. I have been wanting to compile an album to portray my year but haven't felt right about it until this one.

I know this post is two months late but better late than never right? So here are the 15 adventures that made my 2015.

1. Road trip to Lobo, Batangas.

I started the year with a road trip with my closest friends because I wanted to level up my driving skills. There were sharp curves and steep inclines on the route from Lipa City to Lobo in Batangas. I have never driven on that road before but aside from smearing tricycle paint onto my headlights, there were no other bumps encountered. Our destination was the Malabrigo Lighthouse, where we gawked at a goat licking off red paint from the wall, and the boulder beach, which was a steep staircase below it.

2. Hike up to Mt. Pico de Loro after a night of partying.

I don't go out drinking that often and I no longer hike that often either. But somehow, both ended up on consecutive days and both were limited opportunities. After getting home at 4am, I slept for 30 minutes and then went out again to fetch my hiking buddies by 6am. I drove all the way to Pico de Loro, hiked up and down the mountain, and then drove all the way back again. I know this isn't exactly something to be proud of but this feat once again proved the strength of my willpower -- that even lack of sleep cannot defeat.

3. First medium-term solo travel.

It was in 2014 when I decided that I want to (and I will) travel. I spent the year anticipating for timing and destination opportunities (what I recognize as omens) and after several months of deliberation and preparation, it was finally time to leave. It wasn't without worries, doubts, and hesitations. But the more scared I feel about my solo adventure, the stronger my conviction is that it is the right direction to take. There were a lot of risks involved to what I was trying to achieve but I knew the alternative was much more unacceptable.

4. February 14 in Singapore.

I flew to Singapore firstly to attend a colleague's wedding that was held on February 14. I was preparing to roam the streets alone after the luncheon but things like bank chores and random trips happened and then I wasn't alone anymore. It was a really long walk and a really long night full of overwhelming sights and engaging conversations. There were crowds everywhere but I was too in awe to feel annoyed. I liked how I looked. I liked where I was. And I liked who I was with. I don't remember every detail of that night but I remember it being an epic one.

5. Stop at Cat Beach in Penang, Malaysia.

My goal was to travel for at least 30 days and I thought I needed to stay put for at least a week for rest and for budget. I found cat beach (Pantai Kuching) in Malaysia which felt perfect because I haven't held a cat for so long, it was next-door to Singapore, and I love beaches. I stayed with the cat shelter for 10 days and it was where I first met people who had the same travel mindset as me -- travel not for leisure but for self-discovery and living. It was just what I needed to confirm what I was trying to achieve with the trip.

6. Work-travel at Georgetown in Penang, Malaysia.

After spending a few days with company in Teluk Bahang, I decided it's time again to explore solo. I booked five nights in a hostel that was an adventure in itself and cycled between working on my laptop and roaming the streets of Georgetown. I was alone most of the time but the hostel-keepers were so warm that I felt how it was to come home to family every night and share the day's adventures. Aside from that, the street art, the quaint coffee shops, the cheap food, the modern comforts, and the proximity of nature made Penang a place I can potentially settle in.

7. Sunset from White Beach, Moalboal in Cebu.

It had been a few long days of transit from Manila to Cebu to Moalboal and I was just desperate to finally reach my destination. When I arrived at the my resort, I felt so tired like an old person it was a struggle to merely smile at the receiving lady. I dropped my bags at my room, careful not to dive onto the bed, and went out to settle the registration. And then I saw the orange glow of the sunset so I frantically ran towards the beach. I sat on the sand, felt the warmth on my skin, cradled my knees, and smiled to myself. And then the whole grueling trip was worth it.

8. Freediving course at Moalboal, Cebu.

On the few times that I did scuba, it always felt lacking and restrictive. I liked how I can go deep underwater but I hated how the scuba gear feels heavy on my back. Then I discovered freediving and instantly thought that was what I've been looking for. Going down underwater with nothing but a mask and your own oxygen supply felt so natural and liberating. I took a 3-day course in Moalboal and aside from meeting some more amazing and like-minded people, it concluded with a 17-meter dive and a turtle sighting.

9. Temporary home in Roxas City, Capiz.

Apart from watching about Roxas as the seafood capital of the Philippines in a TV show once, I knew nothing about it. So when a friend invited me to stay at their property, I eagerly accepted but with a little embarrassment. As soon as I stepped out onto their porch, I immediately saw the home of my dreams -- a simple house sitting directly in front of an expansive beach and with a view of the sunset and the mountains. I would quietly sit out there every day for five days until the mosquitoes come and start having a meal on me.

10. Short talk about budget travelling in Roxas City.

I was never confident with speaking and telling my stories, even with close friends. So when an opportunity came for me to have a talk, I hesitantly agreed thinking: (1) I would do terrible but I won't likely see these people ever again, and (2) It would be a new experience and a good way to expand my comfort zone. I spoke to a dozen of accounting students about where I've been, how little I spend, and why they should do it too -- now. I'm not sure how well I communicated my ideas but I hoped I inspired a dream in at least one of them.

11. Escape to La Union.

It was one of those days when the weight of the city becomes too overwhelming that a selfish escape feels necessary. Nothing new happened but something just clicked in my head. I waited until the impulse left me but the urge of being somewhere else remained. It was a weekday and the beach was peaceful but it didn't quite feel right until the following morning. I was sitting alone and gazing at the water when a thought hit me: "I should build a hostel by the beach to serve as my home and as my means to travel". After that, I had a mission and a direction to pursue.

12. Siesta by the river in Kyoto.

We just had a super late lunch at 4 pm at the best value Ramen restaurant we could find. We waited more than an hour to be able to sit and receive our orders. By then, I was so hungry I no longer wanted to carry my head so I just set it on the table. When the steaming bowls arrived, we immediately devoured it, repeatedly complimenting how perfect the chashu pork was. After the meal, I was so satisfied I felt like I was walking on air, with my head swimming in the clouds and with a bounce on every step. We proceeded to the river and laid down. All the while, I couldn't help smiling.

13. Beer and takoyaki by the river in Kyoto.

It was to be my last night in a city I would like to explore more and with friends I have felt at home with. We reveled in it by having beer and takoyaki by the river while sharing one last round of stories and perspectives. We've known each other for a week at the most, but as travel eliminates most inhibitions, I feel they're less of a stranger than some of my long-time friends. I know their dreams and disappointments and what has brought them there. Although there's no guarantee we'll keep in touch and remain friends, there was definitely a time in Kyoto when we were the truest of friends. 

14. Hike and trek to Kagami Ike in Nagano.

Coming from the ninja museum in Togakushi, we did an easy hike to the Okusha shrine and then a quicker trek to Kagami Ike. On the way, we saw leaves raining down as the wind blew, a line of monks heading down from the shrine, and thin outlines of trees beginning to lose their colors. Arriving at Kagami Ike, we were greeted by a mirror-like lake with a background of deep blue mountains and varying shades of fall. There was a crowd around but we found a spot to sit at. The air was cool, the sun was warm, the view was amazing and my heart was happy.

15. Road trip to North Luzon.

Since I celebrated my birthday the previous year with a travel, I decided to do the same this year and the following years. I chose La Union and then included Vigan and Pagudpud when a friend joined in. Although it wasn't the happiest of my birthdays or trips, it was still an enjoyable one and a very soulful one. I've been to the north a couple of times already but it's still one of my favorite places. I'm also considering San Juan in La Union, the surfing capital, as the location of my hostel because it makes a good business case, it has a third-wave coffee shop, and it's relatively accessible from Manila.

It looks like I started and ended my year with a road trip. Yey! I haven't started travelling this year yet so technically, 2016 hasn't kicked-off for me and this post still counts. Haha. I'm looking forward to a lot more travel this year and hopefully a lot more posts that go with it.

Cheers to more uncomfortable adventures, more like-minded friends, and more heartful moments!

Finally heading out

I'm 10 days in and the sidetrips have finally ended. From arriving at Changi airport, I have already traversed through 2 countries, visiting 7 cities and villages and spending at least 17 hours just sitting in a bus. All sorts of adventures have already taken place and my emotions have also already cycled from exhilaration to depression. I'm currently taking a 1-day break from travelling to hopefully get some work done and to rest my worn out left knee before I get on that bus to Penang.

Tomorrow will be the start of my real adventure, the reason why I went to Malaysia in the first place. I will be heading out to a small fishing village at the outskirts of Georgetown in Penang Island where I will be helping out with a small organization taking care of stray cats. The idea sounds ultimately unattractive and un-grounded. I know. But to hell with logic and security. Now's not the time for that.

Although I don't sound like it, I really am scared. I'm just not thinking about it at the moment. I will be expecting beyond discomfort and will be hoping for ample courage just to get through the first day. No other way but through it, lah!

One last look at the city before heading out. Taken by Marlowe Apeles.

T minus Thursday

It's already one hour into Thursday, which means I technically only have one day to go before my adventure begins and I am so not yet ready.

Although I have long decided to pursue this trip, I have also always had mixed emotions about it. My feelings would cycle from fear to excitement to indifference and back to fear again. And it is because of this that I keep on procrastinating on planning for the trip. I still don't have a return ticket (which I might need for immigration control). I still don't know how to get to Penang (which is the most significant point of this trip). I still am not decided whether to get trekking sandals or not (which I now have the funds to but maybe not the time to). And I still haven't printed out my travel documents (which I definitely cannot leave without).

One day to go and still so many to take care of. I know everything will work out before my 5am flight on Friday but I need to also decide on a mindset for this trip. I need to get that fear out and completely replace it with enthusiasm or else I may have just wasted 2 months worth of salary and the opportunity to uncover my dream. I don't know exactly what I'm fearful of so I guess I tend to ignore it and be indifferent instead.

Anyway, I WILL push through and I WILL overcome this cautious heart. So please stay tuned for my awesome account of my awesome adventures!

Cheers!

PS: A heaping thanks to my senior colleague for inviting me to her wedding in Singapore. If not for her invite, I wouldn't have a legit reason to go out of the country, or anywhere for that matter, thus lowering the possibility of travelling.