How do you travel?

People travel for different reasons. Some travel for leisure, some for business, some for self-discovery, and some for companionship. Whatever the purpose is, I think there's a certain and appropriate way of doing it -- as with all things life -- that would not only help achieve the goal but also transform the experience.

Unfortunately, not many people know that there are options outside of booking tours and hiring travel agents. Because of this, they may not be able to achieve their travel goals and fail to see travelling as a significant learning experience.

I officially started travelling full-time in 2014 and for a long time, I have always felt something missing and unfulfilled in my trips. Eventually, I realized that my travel style may not be a match with my travel goals. So I questioned my preferences until I found more meaning and pleasure in my trips.

Below are some questions that you can also ask yourself to check whether you are getting what you want from your travels:

1. Travel planning

How do you plan for your travels and choose your destinations? Do you prefer doing your own research or taking suggestions from other people? Or do you skip planning at all and just figure it all out along the way?

What's in my travel kit: plane tickets, DIY itinerary, Lonely Planet guide book, and Google Maps

How some people do it: Travel agents

For people who don't have the time and energy to figure the place out, they employ travel agents. These travel agents would already have an extensive list of destinations and activities for the traveller. Some would be bundled up in packages as day-to-day itineraries and include everything from food to transportation to refreshments. This is the most convenient and safest way to go as everything is already pre-arranged and the visiting foreigner need only to show up at the chosen time and date. However, it is also the most expensive as it utilizes a business service.

For people who are more comfortable with spontaneity and adventure, they figure it out when they get to their destination. There will likely be more than enough tourist assistants to suggest activities and places and if not, there will always be Google.

How I do it: Do-It-Yourself

As someone with more time and energy than money, I do my own planning and itineraries. I usually scour the internet for interesting out-of-the way destinations and alternative cheap activities, putting in considerable hours and thinking to it. In this way, I have total control as to where I want to go, what I want to see, what I want to do, and when I want to move. And because of this, I end up at destinations only locals know of and with activities travel agencies won't suggest.

2. Getting there

How do you intend to go around your destination? Are you comfortable taking public transportation or do you prefer having a private car at your whim?

Un-air-conditioned van service from Laoag to Claveria

How most people do it: Hired transport
New places are difficult to navigate. And not everyone have a strong sense of direction or is willing to get lost. To avoid wasting time on going around in circles, most people prefer hiring their own transport. These could vary from tourist vans/buses, taxis to hired tricycles. The driver usually doubles as the tour guide so the foreigner gets to all the popular spots at the fastest and most convenient way possible.

How I do it: Public transportation, the cheapest way possible
I have a good enough sense of direction and I don't mind getting lost* so I can craft my way around towns and destinations. I get really creative as I want to spend as little as possible but at the same time soak in as much of the place as I can. Modes of transportation that I've taken so far include biking around an island, hitchhiking on a garbage truck, toploading on a bus, and dangling from a jeep. I take normal modes too though, if necessary.

*I love wandering aimlessly. I don't think I get lost because I don't have a destination in the first place. When I get uncomfortable as to where I am heading, I seek legit directions.

3. Accommodation

How much sleeping comfort are you willing to give up? Or how much of your travel budget are you willing to allocate to lodging? Do you feel that you really need your own room or are you comfortable sharing with strangers?

Slept in an old hole-y tent at Kalanggaman Island

How most people do it: Hotels
People hold on to their comfort zones as much as they can. And while travelling, this translates to a private air-conditioned hotel room furnished with white linen and a dresser.

How I do it: Dorm rooms (where available) and fan rooms
Accommodations, unless with a friend, is expensive. I allocate at the most 50% of my daily budget for a soft bed and secure locker. Hotels are definitely out of my radar as I don't believe on spending for something I'll only be using for a few hours each night.

4. Travel Goals

What do you want to achieve from the trip? Are you looking for something? Or do you just want to cross the destination out from your list?

Catching waves while watching sunsets in Liwliwa

How most people see it: To see all the spots in travel brochures
Due to unfamiliarity to a new destination, most people use travel brochures and "must-see's" as their only reference. Although this definitely hits all the noteworthy spots, it misses spots where locals go to, and may even feel manufactured.

How I see it: To see the place as locals see it
I personally hate places that are too commercialized or touristy because it doesn't feel natural. It feels like it has been modified to reflect what visitors prefer instead of what the place really offers. Because I have so much time on my hands, I do intense research -- going beyond lists, scouring Google Maps, finding the most off-the-beaten-path destination. Although I tend to miss the usual tourist destinations, I see something else and often with no other tourists around.

Disclaimer: The above analyses are based mostly on my travels in the Philippines. Popular travelling styles may differ in other countries and I acknowledge that I don't have a strong view on this.

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Birthday Travels

Since 2014, I have been spending my birthdays at a beach destination far away from the city. Although this isn't something my parents necessarily appreciate and my friends exactly understand, I feel good about staring out at the sea with the wind blowing on my face as I celebrate my personal new year. Selfish, maybe, but people always wish each other "an amazing/awesome/great/happy birthday", so I'm just fulfilling their wishes.

As most significant life events, it wasn't planned but was a result of a situation -- a coincidence if you may. My bestfriend was coming home to the Philippines for Christmas in 2014 and wanted to make time for a beach trip. It just turned out that my birthday weekend was the most ideal for both our schedules. So we decided on a location, made minimal plans, and pushed through even with an impending storm. After that trip, I realized that that's what I want to do every year.

The first year

In 2014, I went to a surfing town called Baler with my high school bestfriend who now lives in London and whom I see every couple of years but frequently talk with. Apart from the first night's accommodation and travel directions, we didn't really plan for anything else. We stayed along Sabang beach, the main tourist area, at a cheap lodging I found online and made plans as hours went by, which included an afternoon nap, a surfing session, bicycle-hunting, and a DIY tour. It was both our first time in the area (and our first time travelling together) so there were lots of things to be excited about.

On the morning of my birthday, we woke up early to catch the sunrise, strolling along the dark empty beach and staring meditatively out at the sea (well I did). The wind blew strong, the clouds threatened with rain, and the sun failed to display itself. Nevertheless, I felt good being up and about early enough and being with good company. On the way back to our lodge, we were drawn to a small local bakery by the smell of baked goods. We decided to buy mini-cupcakes and mini-candles with which she and our lodge neighbors sang happy birthday to me.

At dinner, I received my second birthday song when the restaurant staff surprised us with a free birthday dessert of turon ala mode. We were having dinner with our lodge neighbor, Miles, a surfer from California who had a semi-handlebar mustache and who talked about waves travelling for miles and miles before crashing down on a beach and how amazing it is for a surfer to catch that energy. I was actually very tired and zoning in and out of the conversation so I was in a dream-like state when the staff came out singing loudly with a candle to blow out.

As I don't normally get two birthday candles and birthday songs when celebrating in the city, this boded well for my first out-of-town celebration.

I always find myself staring out at the sea whenever faced by it 

Red velvet and kiwi mini-cupcakes with pink and white mini-candles amidst a background of turquoise waters and rolling waves

First of two birthday songs c/o a long-time friend and a day-old friend

The succeeding years

A hand-made birhday cake

The following year, I decided to do the same but with a little more planning. In 2015, I went on a 3-day road trip to Northern Luzon with a good friend from college whom I had recently re-connected with. She learned that I had spent the past year travelling and wanted to try the same. We stayed three nights at three different destinations (Vigan, Pagudpud, La Union), making countless stops along the way, including a star-studded and surreal one at the Bangui Windmills, and driving 6-8 hours in between. On the eve of my birthday, I was sitting by myself at a quiet corner in the hostel when a group started singing happy birthday. Although secretly hoping, I instantly knew that it wasn't intended for me and that made me feel very strange -- indifference trying to keep the feeling of loneliness at bay. Nevertheless, I did get a birthday cake, which my friend drew on the sand, and a birthday sunset amidst the crashing waves.

Towards the end of our 2nd 7-hour drive, we stopped at Bangui in pitch-black darkness beneath a star-studded and gas-clouded night sky while the gigantic windmills loudly burred in the background.

In 2016, I went on a weekend trip to Pundaquit, Zambales with a college blockmate whom I always make time to bond with. I invited her to come away with me, wanting to have company and to catch up with her. We boarded a bus at Kamias, transferred to another one at Olongapo, chartered a tricycle at San Antonio, and walked 100m along the beach to our almost-private beach cottage. The following night, we waited for December 5 with drinks on the table, just talking and sharing stories, switching between life, love, and laughs. The waves rolled by, stars faded in and out, and rain showered softly throughout midnight before we decided to turn in. There was neither cake nor song and it didn't feel celebratory but it was the best I could hope for.

We found ourselves beside a fishing village that thrives on both fish catch and island-hopper traffic. The vibe was the opposite of party but it was a good venue for escaping internal and external noise.

The previous year

This 2017 felt quite different as I have been living in an island for a month prior with my old man (not referring to my dad but he does act like my dad at times). There was no beach escape to plan and no friend to anticipate. Also, unlike the previous years, I was quite busy with work and couldn't afford a full-day celebration. Nevertheless, I was at the beach, gazing at the sunset, without an ensuing back-to-the-city trip.

I spent the morning doing as much work as I can focus on before slipping into a dress I specifically brought for this day and discreetly slipping out of the house. I daintily hopped onto the back of a motorcycle and rushed to the dive center, hoping to catch my freedive buddies and share with them the birthday Mango Float cake I hastily made the previous night. They happily greeted me and the four of us enjoyed my homemade cake (the only food I am confident enough to feed to other people). Afterwards, me and my old man sat by the beach just in time for sunset during which I started telling him about my previous birthday celebrations and how different the year's celebration felt. Shortly after, he excused himself to dress for dinner so I was able to enjoy my cocktails, online birthday greetings and brief chats with old friends.

With the absence of travel, my celebratory plan was to get drunk on happy hour cocktails and laugh the night away. It wasn't the best idea or a mature one and maybe I should stick with discovering a new beach the next time.

*****

Now that I am no longer basing myself in the city, situations similar to 2017's will likely become more normal...and that's a good thing. Though my celebrations don't come with a blast and a lot of excitement, it is what feels right and meaningful. However, I still don't recommend completely isolating yourself on the day when you want to feel loved.

Tips for a Budget-Friendly Travel

Whenever I travel solo, I always make budget my top priority. This is because I want to make travel a part of my normal lifestyle. I try to spend as much as what I would normally spend if I am in Manila, the difference being I have to factor in more expenses like accommodation, entrance fees, and activities. The tips below help me keep to my budget and support me in building a sustainable travel lifestyle.

1. Walk

Budget: Php 0

Aside from costing zero, walking also burns calories and strengthens the body. I love walking and I walk everywhere I can, be it the early morning, middle of the day, or late evening. This is how I normally familiarize myself with a new place, akin to calibrating a compass, and it also enables me to feel the general vibe of the place.

Depending on what is on the street level, walking can be boring but it can also lead you to stumble upon a hole-in-a-wall, a specialty store, or a fortunate event. Sometimes I even amuse myself at how far I've walked, ending up at a different district supposedly several kilometers away.

Walk to save on pesos, burn some calories, and inhale the city (literally).

2. Take Public Transportation

Budget: Php 8-40

If I don't have the time and/or energy to walk, I take public transportation including tricycles and motorcycles, jeepneys and multicabs, trains, etc.

Tricycles and motorcycles don't have fixed routes so I just ask the driver if he can take me to where I want to go and for how much. (Note: I have yet encountered a female driver. Tell me if you had.) Jeepneys and multicabs are trickier but I also normally ask the driver whether he is going where I am headed and to tell me when I should get off. Trains are trickiest because there is little information about navigating the stations and getting tickets and I have to know beforehand which station I need to get off at.

Taking public transport is also a good way to familiarize myself with a new place and I already normally know the routes to take and the stops to say by the second day.

Bonus Tip #1: In Luzon, say "para" to signal the driver to stop. In Visayas and Mindanao, say "lugar lang" instead.

Bonus Tip #2: For commuting around Manila and to some places around the Philippines, check ph-commute.com.

Compared to motorcycles and tricycles, jeepneys and multicabs are safe because they take fixed routes

3. Avoid Chartered Vehicles

Savings: Php 150-3,000

As much as possible, I avoid chartering my own transportation, including the habal-habal (motorcycle). Aside from taking up a large percentage of my daily budget, it forces me into a one-on-one with my driver. Although this presents a great opportunity to quiz him about anything and everything about the place and to gain local insight, it really is a game of luck of whether he will be friendly enough or too friendly.

To avoid such situations, I ask about alternative ways of getting from one place to another, even if it involves multiple transfers or lots of walking.

Habal-habal drivers idly wait for passengers. Most of the time, you can hail one by the side of the road.

4. Ask around for Alternatives

Budget: Varies

In line with the above, I have discovered that there is always another way of getting around, depending on how committed you are. Let me count the ways:

a. Walking -- Some travellers walk for hours on rugged terrain to get to a secluded waterfalls without chartering a habal-habal. I personally have walked 4kms with my full pack to avoid paying an overpriced Php100 tricycle fare. Along the way, I had the best taho ever.

b. Commuting with multiple transfers -- Chartered vehicles are perfect for conveniently going from one place to another. It is fast and direct but relatively expensive. Sometimes, public transportation is also possible but may take longer and more transfers.

c. Joining another group -- For boat tours especially, it is possible to come up and ask whether you can join their group and share in the rental fee. I once joined a group of students noisily taking pictures so that I didn't have to charter a boat of 15pax for myself.

5. Hitchhike

Budget: Php 0

To be used with extreme caution and in selected circumstances only, hitchhiking is not only free but also a thrill. I have hitchhiked on top of a garbage truck to avoid a steep climb, aboard a private boat to directly cross between islands, and on an MMDA Officer's motorbike to skip a traffic bottleneck. Again, use with extreme caution and in selected circumstances only.

Note: I haven't actually stood at the side of a road and held up my thumb. I don't recommend that.

Canggu, Kuta Utara, Bali

15-25 October 2016

Stand up!

Surrounded yet alone except for a furry companion

A family of five

Better than kissing under a mistletoe

The Longest Time

2 apartments...3 motorbikes...4 mini-escapes...7 weeks...The longest that I have stayed in a single place.

I went from not wanting to leave to feeling I have stayed for too long to thinking there are not enough weekends to just wanting to sleep. Nevertheless, each day always felt like a new one.

Driving along my home route always felt unfamiliar; walking along Boulevard always felt refreshing: and seeing the glittering water across to Siquijor always felt like a first. There were instances when I literally forget where I am and have to make an effort to remind myself that I am in Dumaguete. And up until my last glance of the gentle city, it felt both exciting and comforting.

Day 52: Sunrise

Ironically, I ended my trip with a sunrise. After weeks of attempting to get up before 5am and mornings dampened by light rain, I was finally able to behold that red-orange glow from Dumaguete City. The rain clouds gave way and the sea waters laid flat as I indulged in the sun's gradual rise and seeping warmth. It was a happy early morning to end my happy long trip.

Day 1: Boulevard

My constant place, the long stretch of Rizal Boulevard was an almost daily visit for me. I would go there early in the morning, in the middle of the day at noon, or late in the evening. I would either walk from end to end or just sit and look at the sea. More than once, people approached and tried to talk to me with different intentions. But all was well and every visit was interesting.

Day 44: Kaidyukan

Some days, no matter how tired I am, I would just feel like going out on an adventure on my own. It is an uncomfortable craving that will eat me up lest I indulge it. So instead of going straight home, I ventured onto familiar and unfamiliar roads until I found myself 20km away from the city, along a rocky mountain road where only security guards go. Craving satisfied, if I must say.

Day 13: Escanio

On afternoons when I find myself stuck and lost at work, I would go to this rugged road past Escanio for some fresh air and relaxing scenery. The area is inhabited by a fishing community and has views of Cebu Island, Sumilon Island, and Siquijor Island. Very few vehicles pass by, as the road was still being constructed; and I think most that do, come for the same reasons as I.

Day 2: Valencia

A favorite getaway from Dumaguete City, Valencia is a mountain town roughly 30 minutes away which presents several worthwhile destinations. For more than once, when work has started to feel burdensome, we drove out to look for a Japanese Shrine, a Writer's Sanctuary, a fruity snack, and a forest resort. Eventually, the town just became an excuse to drive out while singing out loud.

Day 51: Tierra Alta

I have started to feel sick from weeks of strenuous work and play and I would have wanted to take a day off from everything. But it was my last full day so I prepped up for a last night with Dumaguete friends at Tierra Alta. The people were lovely, the food was yummy, the scenery was relaxing, the night was peaceful, and the sunset was enchanting.

Day 6: Sunset

It was a relatively productive day that started with a light breakfast and a brief walk with my housemate and her dog. I was able to portion my day between work, lunch, dessert cravings, and bicycle hunting. By late afternoon, I felt an urge to just walk and so I did until I found myself at the Capitol Building. I was just in time to witness the pink setting sun against the Negros mountain range.

Day 37: Full moon

I started the day intending to get a lot done but got distracted before I was able to put a dent on my workload. I stumbled upon travel blogs and pictures and then I lost myself again in dreams and possibilities. So I decided to stop attempting productivity and to indulge into my reveries instead. I sat along Rizal Boulevard long enough to view the full moon rise above mystical Siquijor Island.

Siargao Island, Surigao del Norte

The Boardwalk @ Cloud 9

A three-story wooden structure extending a few hundred meters into the sea, the boardwalk is frequented by tourists and locals alike for different purposes. While tourists watch surfers tackle the waves, locals watch the waves that they can potentially tackle.

Boulevard @ General Luna. Taken by Joseph B. Ouano.

An expansive stretch of sandy road facing the sea, the boulevard serves as a scenic setting to watch tourists depart for and arrive from boat trips. On hot afternoons when people prefer to stay inside and hide from the sun, I go out and bike in circles while singing to myself and eating ice cream.

Approach to Mam-On Island

An hour away from Siargao Island through towering waves and blue-green waters, Mam-On Island represents a typical island-paradise with its white sand beach, palm trees, clear cool waters, and small idyllic community. It proposes a more than worthwhile break from tackling the unceasing surf.

Karaoke @ Boulevard

As tourists head home to prepare for another night of partying at Jungle, locals head out to the Boulevard and sit down in front of a bottle (or three) of Tanduay, some serving of barbeque, and a song book for Karaoke

Low-tide hour @ Secret Spot

With no road signs to identify it and a 5-minute trek through forested lands to access it, Secret Spot is a well-known secret among locals that offers both frequent gentle waves for beginners and occasional intermediate swells for the experienced.

Detours and Happy Delays

When I was planning my itinerary, I originally scheduled to arrive in Siargao on 9 April, Day 7 of the trip. But a lot has happened along the way that I have managed to arrive only on Day 16. There were pleasant and unpleasant people, comfortable and uncomfortable beds, disappointing and amazing views; but needless to say, there was no shortage of unanticipated events that kept me stretching my stays and delaying my arrivals. I took my time going from one place to another and that definitely made a big difference.

I travelled to 5 cities/municipalities as a detour before arriving at Siargao. It was an opportunity not only to discover another part of Mindanao, a place I know to possess wonders but outshone by threats, but also to broaden my comfort zone, in places I know little about and with dialects I can vaguely understand.

Most people also know very little about these places. My account may not present these places as attractive tour destinations, but maybe we don't have to be tourists all the time -- but just plainly visitors.

1. Butuan City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Julian's Inn

Dined: Julian's Garage, The Watershed

Visited: Balanghai Shrine Museum, Butuan National Museum, Rizal Plaza, St. Joseph Cathedral, Agusan River, Magallanes Shrine

I started off with Butuan City not because I knew it to be an exciting city but because someone said in the Internet that flights to Butuan City are cheaper than to Surigao City. I went around the tourist spots and I can say that the city appeals mostly to Philippine history and archaeology enthusiasts as the excavation site of the balangays, and to residents of surrounding cities/municipalities as a trade and commercial center.

I stayed at Julian's Inn, a popular lodging for travelling salesmen because of its budget decent accommodation and recreational drinking & karaoke outlets. I did laptop work in the morning and roamed the city in the afternoon. On one occasion, I hitched a ride with one of the salesmen who sold contraceptives across the CARAGA region and was heading my same direction. I would have wanted to stay longer at Julian's Inn just for the available internet connection, but thought the Enchanted River in Hinatuan to be more interesting.

Took a ferry ride along the Agusan River to the Historic Town of Magallanes (where the First Catholic Church in the country was supposedly erected)

2. Hinatuan

Stayed: 1 night @ Marky's Hostel

Dined: Villa Juanita

Visited: Enchanted River, Hinatuan Children's Park

Hinatuan was a miss and a hit -- I started off losing all delight for the place but ended up planning my return trip.

Marky's Hostel was a miss. Tired, hungry, and hot, I was greeted upfront with an inquiry on why I didn't bring my boyfriend along so that I didn't have to travel alone. I have always hated this question and although I have a good long explanation, I merely responded with what I think was a shy smile. Followed by a failed search for satisfying food and of interesting people, I resolved to sleep the rest of the day away.

Villa Juanita was a hit. Hoping to get just a decent meal, I found cable TV, an airy dining area, and a soul-sister. We made conversation about her reckless travel to Marawi City where kidnapping was a way of life, about her success goal of establishing a bed n' breakfast in Hinatuan, about her disconnect with friends whose issues currently revolve around family life, and about her efforts toward sustainable and mindful tourism for the Enchanted River. We talked for two hours before I needed to leave for Bislig City and I have been planning ever since how to meet up with her again.

I also went to Enchanted River and spent at most two hours there trying to dive. Water was not as clear as expected because of rain the night before and the place was packed as early as 6am. I suggest taking a boat tour for P150/hr per boat to get away from the crowd and to explore the river further.

Rainy morning at the Enchanted River which meant water wasn't as clear as expected but still clear nonetheless

3. Bislig City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Casa de Babano Pension House

Dined: Casa de Babano Restaurant, Tea Avenue

Visited: Tinuy-An Falls, Ocean View Park, International Doll Museum

Bislig City was the first of extended stays that I did for this trip, not because it was such a lovely place for a visit but because it was just comfortable enough.

Tinuy-An falls was amazing and photogenic but it serves as a common picnic destination for locals. The crowd, the very very rough road, and the cost of getting there may not be worthwhile except for a full-day bonding session. Ocean View Park is a restaurant atop a hill and overlooking the bay. I think it makes a good dinner place for locals especially with the very few restaurants in the city. The International Doll Museum houses an immense collection of dolls, representing most countries in the world and with varying levels of appeal. It was meant to impart a sense of "seeing the world" through the national costumes of the dolls but I think a thorough commentary should have come with the expensive display.

Oddly, the spot I enjoyed the most in Bislig City was Tea Avenue, a local tea shop with power outlets and good Wi-Fi. I was able to sit down with my laptop and coffee for hours. Even though two guys eventually approached and made conversation with the goal of obtaining my full name and contact information, I was able to get some work done and chat with friends. I walked out on them after they kept insisting I have family issues for choosing to travel alone and then continued working and chatting with friends back at the pension house.

The majestic Tinuy-An Falls, a bit crowded but still amazing

4. Tandag City

Stayed: 4 nights @ Nico's Garden Park

Dined: Nico's Garden Park

Visited: Green Falls, Villa Azarcon, Boulevard

Supposedly a one-night stop-over to Surigao City, I ended up staying in Tandag City for 3+1 nights. I didn't do much and I didn't see much but against my host family's notion, I did enjoy my time in the city.

Upon the recommendation of my Hinatuan soul-sister, I stayed at Nico's Garden Park, and that really made the difference. I was received very warmly by the family like a family friend, instead of a stranger. They shared with me aspirations for the entertainment park. They brought me along to business trips and fun trips. They introduced me to their friends. They let me sing karaoke without judgments. And to top it all off, I slept at a small cottage directly in front of the beach where the waves never stopped to serenade me.

I would be happy to just have a private room in front of the beach, and having people who don't know me accommodate me so graciously made it perfect.

A view of the sea and a chorus of waves from my little cottage by the beach

5. Surigao City

Stayed: 1 night @ Firma's Lodge, 1 night @ Miami City Suites, 2 nights @ Pope John XXIII Pastoral Center
Dined: One Hive Hotel & Suites, Mooon Cafe
Visited: None

Originally planning to head to Siargao immediately upon arrival at Surigao City, I decided to stay a few more days to dedicate some time on work and to avoid the weekend crowd in Siargao. The city doesn't immediately appear to be an interesting one but it actually serves as a jump-off point to a lot of adventure destinations.

I hopped from one accommodation to another in search of budget accommodation, comfortable rooms, and usable wifi. Firma's Lodge was the best budget place I found. The rooms were small with poor ventilation and no extra power outlets but the building was clean and new. Miami City Suites was the best deal I got at a promo rate of Php600 for AC, private toilet, and wifi. But the rate was still too much for my daily budget and it was too comfortable for my own good so I needed to move. The Pastoral Center was an unlikely accommodation option recommended by a tourism officer. I managed to get a double AC room for half the price primarily because I showed up really sweaty with my big backpack.

I didn't do much apart from work and I didn't see much apart from my accommodations, but in more than occasion, I found myself smiling to myself and hopping along, probably out of comfort and satisfaction.

*****
16 days after, I finally got myself to Siargao. The past 2 weeks was already an adventure I never imagined but the succeeding 2 weeks is just overwhelming. This is what travel means to me and I hope people can appreciate it.

Butuan City Travel Guide

Essentially invisible to a tourist's radar, Butuan is a bustling city steeped in Philippine History. The fact that 12th century seafaring boats have been excavated here and the notion that the first Catholic mass may have been celebrated here may not interest most people. However, like the balanghai mother boat that was recently dug up in 2012, Butuan's golden treasures and pioneering adventures still remains to be discovered.

Spots to Visit in Butuan City

1. Balanghai Shrine Museum

Admission: Free

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport. Tell the driver that you're going to the Balanghai Shrine Museum so that he can drop you off at the intersection in Brgy. Libertad. Take a tricycle (Php8) to the museum. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 15-20 mins to the museum, following the main street and keeping right when you reach the junction with a basketball court. Taking the right-hand fork leads to a river, a hanging bridge, and a hill where the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines was supposedly held.

Why Go Here

See an actual balangay and understand how Butuan City came about. This history of the City, as well as of international trading in the Philippines, is closely connected to the existence of the balangays. Also, see a wooden coffin up close including the skulls and treasures that used to be inside them.

Coffins were found alongside the balangays and skeletons were found inside these.	Can you tell which skull is of an older person's and why?

A balangay is a wooden watercraft that is evidence of the Filipino craftsmanship and seamanship during pre-colonial times. It is built with planks of hardwood, wooden pegs, grass ropes, and tree resin (for sealing) and usually measure 15 meters in length and 3 meters in width.The boats were normally used for trade across Southeast Asia as early as the 12th century, way before the arrival of Magellan in the Philippines in the 15th century.

2. National Museum

Admission: Php20

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport and get off at Gaisano. At the tricycle terminal (Php8), ask for one that can take you to the National Museum. The tricycle will drive northwest and circle around the City Hall which is at a big rotunda. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 30mins to the museum, following the northwest road opposite Gaisano and crossing the street to the National Museum just before you reach the City Hall rotunda.

Note: The National Museum is currently closed for renovation and expansion but some exhibits may still be available for viewing upon proper permission.

Why Go Here

See a depiction of what a balangay might have really looked like. The balangay is believed to be used not only for trading but also for carrying an entire barangay of people. Also, understand the agriculture and fishing heritage of Butuan and of the other ethnolinguistic groups.

3. Magallanes Shrine

Admission: Free

Directions: Take an R4 multicab (Php8) headed to Butuan City. Tell the driver that you are headed to the PPA Ferry Terminal so he can drop you off at the intersection by the Post Office. Walk towards the tricycle terminal with a small basketball court. This leads directly to the entrance of the Ferry Terminal. Register your name and age and get on the ferry (Php25, 45mins).

Why Go Here

Cruise along the Agusan River pass by more archaeological sites and scenic landscapes. Sites located directly beside the river include the Banza Church ruins, the Balangay boat building site (with an actual-sized balangay on display), ship building yards, and abandoned factories. Also, watch the sunset from the Magallanes Shrine Plaza as it disappears behind the open sea.

A rusty barge is docked at what seems like an old shipyard	A factory with its three chimneys visible without smoke
Magallanes Plaza fronting Magellan Shrine and facing west	A ferry on the way back to Butuan a little before sunset

Suggested Itinerary

With cheaper flights and city comforts, Butuan is an ideal stop-over before going to Siargao. The city-center can easily be explored within a day following the itinerary below:

5:30   ETD Manila-Butuan

8:00   Check-in at preferred accommodation

9:00   Balanghai Shrine Museum

10:30 Butuan National Museum

12:00 Lunch/free time

16:30 Ferry to Magallanes

18:00 Ferry back to Butuan City

Estimated Budget

Particulars	Rate per Person
Multicab from Bancasi Airport to city-center	Php20
Tricycle from city-center to accommodation	Php8
Multicab from city-center to Brgy. Libertad	Php8
Tricycle to Balanghai Shrine Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to Gaisano	Php8
Tricycle to National Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to PPA Ferry Terminal	Php8
Ferry to Magallanes	Php25
Ferry to Butuan	Php25
Tricycle to city-center	Php8
Total	Php142

Not included: Meals, Accommodation, Flight

Other Things to do in Butuan City

1. Trek to Tagnote Falls in Remedios T. Romualdez

2. Climb Mt. Hilong-Hilong

3. Watch the Butuanons at the local Rizal Park

4. Sample local bread at Tokaido Bakery and Hayashi Breads