Monday, April 25, 2016

Detours and Happy Delays

When I was planning my itinerary, I originally scheduled to arrive in Siargao on 9 April, Day 7 of the trip. But a lot has happened along the way that I have managed to arrive only on Day 16. There were pleasant and unpleasant people, comfortable and uncomfortable beds, disappointing and amazing views; but needless to say, there was no shortage of unanticipated events that kept me stretching my stays and delaying my arrivals. I took my time going from one place to another and that definitely made a big difference.

I travelled to 5 cities/municipalities as a detour before arriving at Siargao. It was an opportunity not only to discover another part of Mindanao, a place I know to possess wonders but outshone by threats, but also to broaden my comfort zone, in places I know little about and with dialects I can vaguely understand.

Most people also know very little about these places. My account may not present these places as attractive tour destinations, but maybe we don't have to be tourists all the time -- but just plainly visitors.

1. Butuan City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Julian's Inn
Dined: Julian's Garage, The Watershed
Visited: Balanghai Shrine Museum, Butuan National Museum, Rizal Plaza, St. Joseph Cathedral, Agusan River, Magallanes Shrine

I started off with Butuan City not because I knew it to be an exciting city but because someone said in the Internet that flights to Butuan City are cheaper than to Surigao City. I went around the tourist spots and I can say that the city appeals mostly to Philippine history and archaeology enthusiasts as the excavation site of the balangays, and to residents of surrounding cities/municipalities as a trade and commercial center.

I stayed at Julian's Inn, a popular lodging for travelling salesmen because of its budget decent accommodation and recreational drinking & karaoke outlets. I did laptop work in the morning and roamed the city in the afternoon. On one occasion, I hitched a ride with one of the salesmen who sold contraceptives across the CARAGA region and was heading my same direction. I would have wanted to stay longer at Julian's Inn just for the available internet connection, but thought the Enchanted River in Hinatuan to be more interesting.

Welcome marker to the Historic Town of Magallanes viewed from the sea
Took a ferry ride along the Agusan River to the Historic Town of Magallanes (where the First Catholic Church in the country was supposedly erected)

2. Hinatuan

Stayed: 1 night @ Marky's Hostel
Dined: Villa Juanita
Visited: Enchanted River, Hinatuan Children's Park

Hinatuan was a miss and a hit -- I started off losing all delight for the place but ended up planning my return trip.

Marky's Hostel was a miss. Tired, hungry, and hot, I was greeted upfront with an inquiry on why I didn't bring my boyfriend along so that I didn't have to travel alone. I have always hated this question and although I have a good long explanation, I merely responded with what I think was a shy smile. Followed by a failed search for satisfying food and of interesting people, I resolved to sleep the rest of the day away.

Villa Juanita was a hit. Hoping to get just a decent meal, I found cable TV, an airy dining area, and a soul-sister. We made conversation about her reckless travel to Marawi City where kidnapping was a way of life, about her success goal of establishing a bed n' breakfast in Hinatuan, about her disconnect with friends whose issues currently revolve around family life, and about her efforts toward sustainable and mindful tourism for the Enchanted River. We talked for two hours before I needed to leave for Bislig City and I have been planning ever since how to meet up with her again.

I also went to Enchanted River and spent at most two hours there trying to dive. Water was not as clear as expected because of rain the night before and the place was packed as early as 6am. I suggest taking a boat tour for P150/hr per boat to get away from the crowd and to explore the river further.

Market to Enchanted River on a rainy morning
Rainy morning at the Enchanted River which meant water wasn't as clear as expected but still clear nonetheless

3. Bislig City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Casa de Babano Pension House
Dined: Casa de Babano Restaurant, Tea Avenue
Visited: Tinuy-An Falls, Ocean View Park, International Doll Museum

Bislig City was the first of extended stays that I did for this trip, not because it was such a lovely place for a visit but because it was just comfortable enough.

Tinuy-An falls was amazing and photogenic but it serves as a common picnic destination for locals. The crowd, the very very rough road, and the cost of getting there may not be worthwhile except for a full-day bonding session. Ocean View Park is a restaurant atop a hill and overlooking the bay. I think it makes a good dinner place for locals especially with the very few restaurants in the city. The International Doll Museum houses an immense collection of dolls, representing most countries in the world and with varying levels of appeal. It was meant to impart a sense of "seeing the world" through the national costumes of the dolls but I think a thorough commentary should have come with the expensive display.

Oddly, the spot I enjoyed the most in Bislig City was Tea Avenue, a local tea shop with power outlets and good Wi-Fi. I was able to sit down with my laptop and coffee for hours. Even though two guys eventually approached and made conversation with the goal of obtaining my full name and contact information, I was able to get some work done and chat with friends. I walked out on them after they kept insisting I have family issues for choosing to travel alone and then continued working and chatting with friends back at the pension house.

View of the Tinuy-An falls with a foreground of the pool of water
The majestic Tinuy-An Falls, a bit crowded but still amazing

4. Tandag City

Stayed: 4 nights @ Nico's Garden Park
Dined: Nico's Garden Park
Visited: Green Falls, Villa Azarcon, Boulevard

Supposedly a one-night stop-over to Surigao City, I ended up staying in Tandag City for 3+1 nights. I didn't do much and I didn't see much but against my host family's notion, I did enjoy my time in the city.

Upon the recommendation of my Hinatuan soul-sister, I stayed at Nico's Garden Park, and that really made the difference. I was received very warmly by the family like a family friend, instead of a stranger. They shared with me aspirations for the entertainment park. They brought me along to business trips and fun trips. They introduced me to their friends. They let me sing karaoke without judgments. And to top it all off, I slept at a small cottage directly in front of the beach where the waves never stopped to serenade me.

I would be happy to just have a private room in front of the beach, and having people who don't know me accommodate me so graciously made it perfect.

A foreground of plants and a couple of islands jutting out of the sea
A view of the sea and a chorus of waves from my little cottage by the beach

5. Surigao City

Stayed: 1 night @ Firma's Lodge, 1 night @ Miami City Suites, 2 nights @ Pope John XXIII Pastoral Center
Dined: One Hive Hotel & Suites, Mooon Cafe
Visited: None

Originally planning to head to Siargao immediately upon arrival at Surigao City, I decided to stay a few more days to dedicate some time on work and to avoid the weekend crowd in Siargao. The city doesn't immediately appear to be an interesting one but it actually serves as a jump-off point to a lot of adventure destinations.

I hopped from one accommodation to another in search of budget accommodation, comfortable rooms, and usable wifi. Firma's Lodge was the best budget place I found. The rooms were small with poor ventilation and no extra power outlets but the building was clean and new. Miami City Suites was the best deal I got at a promo rate of Php600 for AC, private toilet, and wifi. But the rate was still too much for my daily budget and it was too comfortable for my own good so I needed to move. The Pastoral Center was an unlikely accommodation option recommended by a tourism officer. I managed to get a double AC room for half the price primarily because I showed up really sweaty with my big backpack.

I didn't do much apart from work and I didn't see much apart from my accommodations, but in more than occasion, I found myself smiling to myself and hopping along, probably out of comfort and satisfaction.

*****
16 days after, I finally got myself to Siargao. The past 2 weeks was already an adventure I never imagined but the succeeding 2 weeks is just overwhelming. This is what travel means to me and I hope people can appreciate it.