Thursday, December 17, 2015

Japan: Budget Itinerary and Overview of Expenses

Itinerary

Osaka: First glimpse of the country and solo exploration


Day 1 - Arrive at Kansai International Airport (KIX) via Cebu Pacific. Take the Nankai Airport Limited Express to Shin-Imamiya Station. Check-in at Backpackers Hotel Toyo. Look for a midnight snack

Day 2 - Purchase breakfast from Family Mart. Explore Osaka by walking randomly starting with the Shinsekai area. Manage to get to Umeda, the shopping and business center of Osaka. Get on a train back to the hostel before the stations close.

Japanese lanterns and lit-up sumo wrestlers in front of a Japanese game arcade at Osaka's Shinsekai
Known as Osaka's most dangerous neighbourhood, Shinsekai is my first glimpse to culture in Japan -- entertainment, restaurants, streets, order
Day 3 - Claim discounted breakfast at next-door Cafe Maharuka. Purchase an Osaka One Day Pass ticket at Doubutsuen-mae Station. Explore Osaka Castle Park and adjacent Osaka Business Park. Ride subway to Ebisucho Station and walk around the Denden Town area, passing through Kurumon Market and ending up at Namba. Ride another subway to Yotsubashi Station and hunt for Giracha Coffee for cool bike finds and then check out the hipster shops at nearby Orange Street. Cross the bridge and walk to Dotonbori to see Glico man at the center of the neon lights.

Osaka One Day Pass ticket held over an Osaka Train Route Map
I bought an Osaka One Day Pass which gave me unlimited rides on the subway for only 800 yen -- a good deal since each ride average 200 yen
View of Osaka Castle from the back
Osaka Castle, which is safeguarded by an inner and an outer moat, deserves a half-day visit along with its expansive park
Selection of seafood (squid, octopus, shrimp, clams, sea urchins, etc.) displayed at the Kurumon Ichiba Market (Osaka's Kitchen) in Osaka
Large and fresh seafood at the Kurumon Ichiba Market which is known among locals as "Osaka's Kitchen"
Display of bicycles, hanging from the ceiling and on the walls, with a coffee counter at Giracha Coffee Shop in Osaka
Funky finds for bicycle enthusiasts at the Giracha Coffee shop all while sipping espresso and interacting with other customers
LED signboards, including Glico man signboard at Dotonbori in Osaka amidst a carpet of tourists
One of the landmarks of Osaka, Glico man never fails to reach that finish line

Kyoto: More like-minded people and chill-outs by the river


Day 4 - Take the Hankyu Railway to Kyoto Kawaramachi Station. Check-in with host. Explore Central Kyoto starting with Kyoto Tower, Kyoto Yodobashi, and then Kyoto Station. Have a fast-paced salaryman dinner at Ohsho (not sure about the name) on the way back from Kyoto Station. Enjoy a beer session along the Kamogawa river alongside high school students and other locals.

View of Kyoto Train Station from the top floor
For a city that is steeped in history and wooden structures, Kyoto Station is ironically very modern and characteristically steel
Kamogawa or Kamo River with a grassy bank on the right side and small buildings on the far left
The Kamo River, or Kamo-gawa, which literally means "duck river", is a popular walking and hang-out spot for residents and tourists alike
Day 5 - Get a super late lunch at the supposedly number 1 ramen place in Kyoto, Ramen no Kaze. Take a quick nap by the Kamo River. Explore Nishiki Market and sample locally-made flavored honey. Enjoy a pot of green tea before capping the night.

Bowl of Ramen consisting of chashu (pork) slices, hard-boiled egg cut in half, bean sprouts, and milky broth
With a good selection of ramen and full seats, Ramen no Kaze serves a flavorful broth plus the best Chashu I had -- crispy exterior and tender interior
Riverbanks along Kamogawa consisting of a sandy path where people take carefree strolls and grassy banks where people sit down and lie down
Pathways run along the riverbanks where people normally walk, jog, or bike while some sit and lie down on the grass
Day 6 - See the 1,001 Kannon statues in Sanjusangen-do, or Rengeo-in. Hunt for a cheap conveyor belt sushi restaurant for dinner. Spot for a real geisha (and we did see one!) in the Gion district.

Perspective of Sanjusangen-do from its left-hand corner
The longest wooden structure in Japan, Sanjusangen-do is home to 1,001 statues of the goddess of mercy (no cameras allowed inside)
A row of sushi on a conveyor belt including Tamago Nigiri Sushi at the front
Tamago Nigiri Sushi on the belt waiting to be picked up for 108 yen (roughly Php 40)
Day 7 - Move slowly and sleep the whole day. Get up just in time for a dinner of grilled pork and beef plus beer

Day 8 - Board a JR Train to Saga Arashiyama Station from Kyoto Station. Decide whether to rent a bike or to get a sweet snack or both or neither. Walk through the Bamboo Forest up to the lookout point. Walk down to the river, across Togetsukyo Bridge (or Moon Crossing Bridge), and up to the Kameyama-koen Park (Monkey Park). Watch the monkeys play around while contemplating what to get for a late lunch. Discover that the cheap meals are sold out at the convenience store and resolve by getting a Ton-katsu meal at an unfortunately unfriendly restaurant. Ride the train back home and get some rest. Go out again in the evening solo to contemplate some more about life by the Kamo river while munching on Onigiri and enjoying the cold weather.

Sunlight peaks beneath the trees with a view of the Oi River in Arashiyama, Japan
The Oi River sits beside Arashiyama, or the Storm Mountain
Monkey walking on all-fours just outside the rope gate at the Iwatayama Monkey Park in Arashiyama
Over 170 monkeys at the Iwatayama Monkey Park have become accustomed to human visitors
Day 9 - Assemble IKEA chairs in the morning and accidentally stab my right foot with a knife. Go restaurant-hopping for dinner: (1) Shabu-shabu pre-dinner at a nice restaurant along the river; (2) Gyudon meal at Sukiya; (3) Ice cream dessert at Baskin Robbins 31.

Day 10 - Rent a bicycle for a DIY bike tour of Kyoto. Cycle east to the Higashiyama District, passing by the Gion district and stopping at Honen-in. Resume biking, going towards the direction of stereotypical male high school students, passing by high schools and a couple other temples, and turning to random interesting paths until a dead end of stairways. Carry bicycles up the stairs to a new road where other tourists are also walking around. Resume biking without a specific destination and stop at vacant temples hidden behind ancient trees and falling leaves. Resume biking again and somehow end up at Ginkaku-ji. Stop for a matcha ice cream break and decide that the 500 yen entrance fee to the temple grounds is not worth it because it is almost closing time. Resume biking along the parallel road to the Philosopher's Path to avoid the crowd and then head west away from the Higashiyama District. Attempt to drag bikes uphill along a deserted path strewn with dead leaves with the hope of an exhilarating downhill ride, a sunset scene, and a view of the city lights. Abort mission after confirming the endless flight of stairs from passers-by and because an army of mosquitoes has been eating us up. Resume biking westward again and eventually end up at the expansive Imperial Palace. Cycle inside and come out at the north gate to cycle northward along the Kamogawa River. Cycle back to the Higashiyama District for a quick Okonomiyaki dinner. With 15 minutes left, rush back to the bicycle rental shop, taking advantage of downhill slopes and staying as safe as possible.

Moss-covered pathways and manicured flora in Honen-in as viewed from outside the temple doors
A peak to the moss-covered pathways and manicured flora of Honen-in
Japanese male high school students walking together from end of school
An army of high school students marching home from end of school
Small wooden temple at the foot of the mountain in Western Kyoto
An unnamed temple with zero tourists hidden at the foot of the mountain
Day 11 - Sit down at a cafe to get some work done and to organize plans. Send off one of the housemates at Kyoto Station. Purchase meals and snacks at a discount from Isetan's closing sale. Fall in line at the JR Office for the JR Pass Exchange.

Day 12 - Get up early and run to Lawson 100 and then to McDonald's. See the bright orange gates of the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. Watch the sunset from the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Start packing my bags for tomorrow's departure. Get takoyaki and beer then head to the river one last time for a final session of life talks, adventure stories, and travel plans with housemates.

Carpet of tourists at the orange gates of Fushimi Inari Taisho in Kyoto
The bright orange wooden gates stand out against the background of trees and swarm of people
Takoyaki balls being transfered into a take-away dish while several more are being cooked
Take-away takoyaki from that standing bar that we always pass by and which is mostly full of locals

Nagoya: First Shinkansen and detour to Mt. Fuji


Day 13 - Get up at 6am to catch the first Shinkansen going to Nagoya and miss it by 10 mins. Arrive at Nagoya Station one hour later, walk 20 mins to the hostel to avoid a 200 yen train ticket, and meet up with Filipino friends. Take the train back to Nagoya Station, take a second Shinkansen to Numazu, and then transit to Gotemba for a view of Mt. Fuji and a touristy lunch stop.

Tokyo: Travel with companions, and a lot of walking, biking and taking the train


Day 13 - Arrive at Tokyo via a third Shinkansen and check-in at selected Airbnb accommodation. Go out for dinner and then go around nearby spots of interest such as Senso-ji, Don Quijote, and Sumida River.

Day 14 - Rent a bicycle and cycle through spots in Tokyo starting with the Tsukiji Fish Market. Fall in line for 30 mins to Yamazaki Sushi. Cycle to Tokyo Imperial Palace via Ginza and then lie down on the grass while imagining what the place was like a century ago. Resume cycling, passing by Roponggi Hills, stopping at a bike shop for some parts and then at a 7/11 for pre-dinner, and arriving at Hachiko's statue in Shibuya. Leave bikes at a parking lot and walk around Shibuya to look for a good dinner place. Take a train to Harajuku Station then walk back to Shibuya Station. Pick up the bikes, fold them into a bag, and then drag them to the train back to Asakusa.

Day 15 - Buy bread from the local bakery because it smells nice and then get a salaryman brunch from Yoshinoya. Take a train from Ueno Station to Katsuta Station and then a bus to the Hitachi Seaside Park. Wander around the park while wondering at the colorful flowers, burning red bushes, and ever green grass. Opt to walk 4kms towards the nearest train station instead of waiting in line for the bus back to Katsuta Station. End up walking until dark and waiting at a deserted, poorly lighted station for a train ride that costs 170 yen more than the bus. Starve and get stranded on the Shinkansen back to Tokyo because someone decided to jump on the railroads. Get a feel-good dinner of gyoza and ramen once back at Asakusa.

Fields of burning red flora and lines of tourists at the Hitachi Seaside Park
Could these be the burning bush that Moses saw?
Rows of pink and white flora amidst greeneries at the Hitachi Seaside Park
Orderly rows of flowers and greens
Day 16 - Decide to stay in Tokyo for another night instead of heading out to Nikko. Look out for cosplayers along Takeshita Dori in Harajuku. Enjoy some specialty coffee at Omotesando Koffee. Window-shop at the high-end local and global boutiques in Omotesando and Shibuya. Gaze at the electronic displays, girls in maid costumes, toys, and crowd in Akihabara.

A barista carefully sprinkles cinnamon over a cup of latte at Omotesando Koffee in Tokyo
Coffee and drinks prepared with passion and precision, every time

Nagano: Mountain towns, autumn leaves, apple orchards, and ancient trees


Day 17 - Take another Shinkansen from Ueno to Nagano Station. Transfer to the subway and get off at the last station at Yudanaka. Be greeted by an elderly man who just wants to practice his English. Check-in at Yudanaka Seifuso to quickly put down bags and then rush off to Jigokudani Yaen-koen Park (Snow Monkey Park). Walk 2kms along the Yumichi Natural Trail while munching on Almond Chocolates because we didn't have time for lunch. Watch the macaque monkeys as they chase each other around, forage for seeds and flowers, and lie on their bellies. Walk 4kms back to avoid the 500 yen bus ride and also to explore the mountain town. Enjoy a warm dinner of rice bowls and noodles at a restaurant with a poorly kept kitchen and manned by a single cook/waiter/cashier/cleaner. Soak at the indoor and outdoor onsens which are fortunately unoccupied and beautifully strewn with floating apples. Get up suddenly at midnight and crave for a walk and a snack at the only convenience store in town.

Lines of trees along the Yumichi Natural Trail heading to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen Park (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
A short 2km (30min_ hike through the Yumichi Natural Trail
Mother monkey and child atop a rock while foraging for food at the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
A mother and child foraging for food among the rocks and bushes
Red-faced monkey lying down on flat rock at the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) in Yudanaka, Japan
This guy just wants to lie down beside his flower
Day 18 - Enjoy one last dip at the onsen before catching the hourly train from Yudanaka Station. Get off at Suzaka Station and check-in at Guesthouse Kura, a 100 year-old traditional Japanese house. Enjoy a late lunch of Sukiyaki and Katsudon at Matsubaya. Walk around the quiet town of storehouses and watch the sunset from Garyu Park. Hunt for the only 7/11 in town to get cash then get some dinner also.

Waiting shed on a clearing at one of the trails from Garyu Park in Suzaka, Japan
One of the rest stops along the hiking trail in Garyu Park, the look out offers great views of the city and the mountains
Day 19 - Get up early and take a train back to Nagano Station. Drop bags at a locker rental and pick-up bento boxes from a convenience store. Board the Togakushi Bus and get off at the Okusha Shrine stop (second to the last stop). Act like ninjas and battle trap doors at the Ninja House. Hike amidst ancient trees and falling leaves to Okusha Shrine and then to Kagami Ike. Marvel at the varying shades of orange and green while munching on onigiri which was a gift from a friendly bus-mate. Head back to Chusha Shrine and hunt for a Soba Restaurant. Chance upon an empty one and make friends with the cook who works as a ski lift operator on winters. Head back to Nagano Station to pick up bags and board the Limited Express Shinano to Nagoya.

Ninja obstacle wall at the Ninja House in Togakushi, Japan
The Ninja House features an outdoor obstacle course, a trick house, a Shuriken shooting range, and a museum
An onigiri held in front of the Kagami Ike (Kagami Lake) that features orange fall leaves in Togakushi, Japan
An onigiri given out of kindness and a natural view of gradients and textures
Bowl of hot soba noodles with a side dish of soft pumpkin in Togakushi, Japan
Togakushi is known for its special kind of soba noodles but as I am no connoisseur, I only know that its freshly-made

Nagoya: Chill and hectic days


Day 20 - Look for a local place to get brunch. Walk around randomly at the Sakura Honmachi and Sakae areas. Get dinner at a Yakiniku restaurant that has a Filipino menu and is frequented by Filipino customers. Find way back to Fushimi.

Day 21 - Rush through the train stations to be at the Toyota Kaikan Museum before 10:30am. Enjoy a DIY tour of the museum and a guided tour of their factory. Walk to the nearest supermarket to get a late lunch and some chocolates for take home. Head back to central Nagoya and wait for the shuttle bus to the airport. Pick-up Royce chocolates from the duty-free shop and a light dinner at the convenience store. Depart from Chubu Centrair International Airport (NGO) via Cebu Pacific.

Expenses


Transportation

Manila – Osaka via Cebu Pacific
P 2,250
Nagoya – Manila via Cebu Pacific
P 3,403
International Travel Tax
P 1,620
Peso Total
P 7,273
7-day JR Pass
29,110 yen
Nankai Airport Limited Express
920 yen
Osaka One Day Pass
800 yen
Hankyu Railway
400 yen
Bicycle rental @ Kyoto
500 yen
Bicycle rental @ Tokyo
300 yen
Togakushi Bus
2,600 yen
Airport Shuttle bus to Chubu Airport
1,200 yen
Other transportation @ Osaka
420 yen
Other transportation @ Kyoto
1,040 yen
Other transportation @ Tokyo
1,020 yen
Other transportation @ Hitachi
970 yen
Other transportation @ Yudanaka
1,260 yen
Other transportation @ Suzaka
780 yen
Other transportation @ Togakushi
540 yen
Other transportation @ Nagoya
2,860 yen
Yen Total
44,720 yen

Accommodation

Airbnb @ Tokyo
P 957 x 3 nights
Yudanaka Seifusu @ Yudanaka
P 2,070
Airbnb @ Nagoya
P 670 x 2 nights
Peso Total
P 6,281
Backpackers Hotel Toyo @ Osaka
1,600 yen x 3 nights
Oak Hostel @ Tokyo
4,850 yen
Guesthouse Kura @ Suzaka
3,000 yen
Yen Total
12,650 yen

Meals

Meals @ Osaka
3,791 yen
Meals @ Kyoto
13,291 yen
Meals @ Tokyo
10,523 yen
Meals @ Hitachi
1,135 yen
Meals @ Yudanaka
1,498 yen
Meals @ Suzaka
1,594 yen
Meals @ Togakushi
1,228 yen
Meals @ Nagoya
3,512 yen
Yen Total
36,572 yen

Activities/Sights

Sanjusangen-do @ Kyoto
600 yen
Monkey Park @ Kyoto
550 yen
Hitachi Seaside Park @ Hitachi
440 yen
Snow Monkey Park @ Yudanaka
500 yen
Ninja House @ Togakushi
600 yen
Locker rental
550 yen
Yen Total
3,240 yen

Summary of Expenses

Yen
Peso
Transportation
44,720
7,273
Accommodation
12,650
6,281
Meals
36,572
Activities/Sights
3,240
Expenses Total
97,12 yen
P 13,554
Peso Estimate for 21 days
P 51,455