Canggu, Kuta Utara, Bali

15-25 October 2016

Stand up!

Surrounded yet alone except for a furry companion

A family of five

Better than kissing under a mistletoe

In Pursuit of A Life Well-Lived

I was in Siargao Island when I received a job opportunity to work with an international research agency. The opportunity appealed to me because it is online-based and is with a prestigious company, so I updated my CV and submitted it. I was in Cebu City when I received a response from the agency and an invitation to take an assessment exam. I took the hour-long written exam, hated it, felt like I did badly, and threw away the idea of working with the company. I was in Panglao Island when I received an email invitation for a Skype interview with the project commissioner. It was totally unexpected and definitely flattering so I talked with them for a couple of hours and then they confirmed that they are contracting me.

Upon that confirmation, I felt unsure of whether I really wanted the job or not, knowing how demanding and challenging and stressful it will be. It felt like being pulled back to the life I just left but at the same time, I thought it can also be the opportunity I need to achieve a semi-nomadic life. It was definitely possible. It is going to be difficult, but yes, it is possible.

From Panglao, I decided to go to Dumaguete City. I have been to the student town  before and I know it can serve my office needs. I booked an apartment for two weeks, after which I need to decide whether to stay, transfer to a different city/island, or fly back to Manila. Going back to Manila would be the most practical and most comfortable. Moving to a different city or town would be the most complicated and risky. Staying in Dumaguete would be neither practical nor comfortable and would also be complicated and risky. I decided to stay.

On weekdays, I worked on my laptop. On weekends, I hunted for an apartment. On lunch breaks and early afternoons, I explored the city. It was a difficult and exhausting juggle between work, life, and play. Several times, I seriously considered quitting and disappearing. The company had no idea where I am and had no means to hunt me down, with only my professional reputation at risk. But that's just going to add to the things I am running away from. So with a lot of push and some support, I kept going and managed to hold my sanity (although I already am insane for attempting such).

Moving out of my AirBnB room, I found an apartment with kitchen and broadband internet by contacting every "room for rent" sign I see. Before that, I had no idea how people find places to live in. As a means of getting around, I rented a scooter which I eventually upgraded to a motorbike. I drove out every day, even with no reason, and reached as far out as 30km on my own. On most days, I cooked and prepared my meals, and learned to feed myself and others with honestly delicious meals. Previously, I can only make "sad food" which is edible enough just for myself. But most of the time, I was hunched up on my chair, making calls to Manila-based companies, scouring the internet for information and statistics, and burning nights to finish reports and deliverables.

After 7 weeks in Dumaguete City (and more than a month in various places), I finally went back to Manila. I carried with me not just a new opportunity of achieving the life I want to live but a real attempt at it. I am still in the middle of the attempt, and of the opportunity, but maybe I can make it. Maybe, in the end, I will be living the life I want to live.

Like a sturdy boat in the middle of the sea, I'll keep floating amidst the waves until I find my anchor.

The Longest Time

2 apartments...3 motorbikes...4 mini-escapes...7 weeks...The longest that I have stayed in a single place.

I went from not wanting to leave to feeling I have stayed for too long to thinking there are not enough weekends to just wanting to sleep. Nevertheless, each day always felt like a new one.

Driving along my home route always felt unfamiliar; walking along Boulevard always felt refreshing: and seeing the glittering water across to Siquijor always felt like a first. There were instances when I literally forget where I am and have to make an effort to remind myself that I am in Dumaguete. And up until my last glance of the gentle city, it felt both exciting and comforting.

Day 52: Sunrise

Ironically, I ended my trip with a sunrise. After weeks of attempting to get up before 5am and mornings dampened by light rain, I was finally able to behold that red-orange glow from Dumaguete City. The rain clouds gave way and the sea waters laid flat as I indulged in the sun's gradual rise and seeping warmth. It was a happy early morning to end my happy long trip.

Day 1: Boulevard

My constant place, the long stretch of Rizal Boulevard was an almost daily visit for me. I would go there early in the morning, in the middle of the day at noon, or late in the evening. I would either walk from end to end or just sit and look at the sea. More than once, people approached and tried to talk to me with different intentions. But all was well and every visit was interesting.

Day 44: Kaidyukan

Some days, no matter how tired I am, I would just feel like going out on an adventure on my own. It is an uncomfortable craving that will eat me up lest I indulge it. So instead of going straight home, I ventured onto familiar and unfamiliar roads until I found myself 20km away from the city, along a rocky mountain road where only security guards go. Craving satisfied, if I must say.

Day 13: Escanio

On afternoons when I find myself stuck and lost at work, I would go to this rugged road past Escanio for some fresh air and relaxing scenery. The area is inhabited by a fishing community and has views of Cebu Island, Sumilon Island, and Siquijor Island. Very few vehicles pass by, as the road was still being constructed; and I think most that do, come for the same reasons as I.

Day 2: Valencia

A favorite getaway from Dumaguete City, Valencia is a mountain town roughly 30 minutes away which presents several worthwhile destinations. For more than once, when work has started to feel burdensome, we drove out to look for a Japanese Shrine, a Writer's Sanctuary, a fruity snack, and a forest resort. Eventually, the town just became an excuse to drive out while singing out loud.

Day 51: Tierra Alta

I have started to feel sick from weeks of strenuous work and play and I would have wanted to take a day off from everything. But it was my last full day so I prepped up for a last night with Dumaguete friends at Tierra Alta. The people were lovely, the food was yummy, the scenery was relaxing, the night was peaceful, and the sunset was enchanting.

Day 6: Sunset

It was a relatively productive day that started with a light breakfast and a brief walk with my housemate and her dog. I was able to portion my day between work, lunch, dessert cravings, and bicycle hunting. By late afternoon, I felt an urge to just walk and so I did until I found myself at the Capitol Building. I was just in time to witness the pink setting sun against the Negros mountain range.

Day 37: Full moon

I started the day intending to get a lot done but got distracted before I was able to put a dent on my workload. I stumbled upon travel blogs and pictures and then I lost myself again in dreams and possibilities. So I decided to stop attempting productivity and to indulge into my reveries instead. I sat along Rizal Boulevard long enough to view the full moon rise above mystical Siquijor Island.

Siargao Island, Surigao del Norte

The Boardwalk @ Cloud 9

A three-story wooden structure extending a few hundred meters into the sea, the boardwalk is frequented by tourists and locals alike for different purposes. While tourists watch surfers tackle the waves, locals watch the waves that they can potentially tackle.

Boulevard @ General Luna. Taken by Joseph B. Ouano.

An expansive stretch of sandy road facing the sea, the boulevard serves as a scenic setting to watch tourists depart for and arrive from boat trips. On hot afternoons when people prefer to stay inside and hide from the sun, I go out and bike in circles while singing to myself and eating ice cream.

Approach to Mam-On Island

An hour away from Siargao Island through towering waves and blue-green waters, Mam-On Island represents a typical island-paradise with its white sand beach, palm trees, clear cool waters, and small idyllic community. It proposes a more than worthwhile break from tackling the unceasing surf.

Karaoke @ Boulevard

As tourists head home to prepare for another night of partying at Jungle, locals head out to the Boulevard and sit down in front of a bottle (or three) of Tanduay, some serving of barbeque, and a song book for Karaoke

Low-tide hour @ Secret Spot

With no road signs to identify it and a 5-minute trek through forested lands to access it, Secret Spot is a well-known secret among locals that offers both frequent gentle waves for beginners and occasional intermediate swells for the experienced.

Detours and Happy Delays

When I was planning my itinerary, I originally scheduled to arrive in Siargao on 9 April, Day 7 of the trip. But a lot has happened along the way that I have managed to arrive only on Day 16. There were pleasant and unpleasant people, comfortable and uncomfortable beds, disappointing and amazing views; but needless to say, there was no shortage of unanticipated events that kept me stretching my stays and delaying my arrivals. I took my time going from one place to another and that definitely made a big difference.

I travelled to 5 cities/municipalities as a detour before arriving at Siargao. It was an opportunity not only to discover another part of Mindanao, a place I know to possess wonders but outshone by threats, but also to broaden my comfort zone, in places I know little about and with dialects I can vaguely understand.

Most people also know very little about these places. My account may not present these places as attractive tour destinations, but maybe we don't have to be tourists all the time -- but just plainly visitors.

1. Butuan City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Julian's Inn

Dined: Julian's Garage, The Watershed

Visited: Balanghai Shrine Museum, Butuan National Museum, Rizal Plaza, St. Joseph Cathedral, Agusan River, Magallanes Shrine

I started off with Butuan City not because I knew it to be an exciting city but because someone said in the Internet that flights to Butuan City are cheaper than to Surigao City. I went around the tourist spots and I can say that the city appeals mostly to Philippine history and archaeology enthusiasts as the excavation site of the balangays, and to residents of surrounding cities/municipalities as a trade and commercial center.

I stayed at Julian's Inn, a popular lodging for travelling salesmen because of its budget decent accommodation and recreational drinking & karaoke outlets. I did laptop work in the morning and roamed the city in the afternoon. On one occasion, I hitched a ride with one of the salesmen who sold contraceptives across the CARAGA region and was heading my same direction. I would have wanted to stay longer at Julian's Inn just for the available internet connection, but thought the Enchanted River in Hinatuan to be more interesting.

Took a ferry ride along the Agusan River to the Historic Town of Magallanes (where the First Catholic Church in the country was supposedly erected)

2. Hinatuan

Stayed: 1 night @ Marky's Hostel

Dined: Villa Juanita

Visited: Enchanted River, Hinatuan Children's Park

Hinatuan was a miss and a hit -- I started off losing all delight for the place but ended up planning my return trip.

Marky's Hostel was a miss. Tired, hungry, and hot, I was greeted upfront with an inquiry on why I didn't bring my boyfriend along so that I didn't have to travel alone. I have always hated this question and although I have a good long explanation, I merely responded with what I think was a shy smile. Followed by a failed search for satisfying food and of interesting people, I resolved to sleep the rest of the day away.

Villa Juanita was a hit. Hoping to get just a decent meal, I found cable TV, an airy dining area, and a soul-sister. We made conversation about her reckless travel to Marawi City where kidnapping was a way of life, about her success goal of establishing a bed n' breakfast in Hinatuan, about her disconnect with friends whose issues currently revolve around family life, and about her efforts toward sustainable and mindful tourism for the Enchanted River. We talked for two hours before I needed to leave for Bislig City and I have been planning ever since how to meet up with her again.

I also went to Enchanted River and spent at most two hours there trying to dive. Water was not as clear as expected because of rain the night before and the place was packed as early as 6am. I suggest taking a boat tour for P150/hr per boat to get away from the crowd and to explore the river further.

Rainy morning at the Enchanted River which meant water wasn't as clear as expected but still clear nonetheless

3. Bislig City

Stayed: 2 nights @ Casa de Babano Pension House

Dined: Casa de Babano Restaurant, Tea Avenue

Visited: Tinuy-An Falls, Ocean View Park, International Doll Museum

Bislig City was the first of extended stays that I did for this trip, not because it was such a lovely place for a visit but because it was just comfortable enough.

Tinuy-An falls was amazing and photogenic but it serves as a common picnic destination for locals. The crowd, the very very rough road, and the cost of getting there may not be worthwhile except for a full-day bonding session. Ocean View Park is a restaurant atop a hill and overlooking the bay. I think it makes a good dinner place for locals especially with the very few restaurants in the city. The International Doll Museum houses an immense collection of dolls, representing most countries in the world and with varying levels of appeal. It was meant to impart a sense of "seeing the world" through the national costumes of the dolls but I think a thorough commentary should have come with the expensive display.

Oddly, the spot I enjoyed the most in Bislig City was Tea Avenue, a local tea shop with power outlets and good Wi-Fi. I was able to sit down with my laptop and coffee for hours. Even though two guys eventually approached and made conversation with the goal of obtaining my full name and contact information, I was able to get some work done and chat with friends. I walked out on them after they kept insisting I have family issues for choosing to travel alone and then continued working and chatting with friends back at the pension house.

The majestic Tinuy-An Falls, a bit crowded but still amazing

4. Tandag City

Stayed: 4 nights @ Nico's Garden Park

Dined: Nico's Garden Park

Visited: Green Falls, Villa Azarcon, Boulevard

Supposedly a one-night stop-over to Surigao City, I ended up staying in Tandag City for 3+1 nights. I didn't do much and I didn't see much but against my host family's notion, I did enjoy my time in the city.

Upon the recommendation of my Hinatuan soul-sister, I stayed at Nico's Garden Park, and that really made the difference. I was received very warmly by the family like a family friend, instead of a stranger. They shared with me aspirations for the entertainment park. They brought me along to business trips and fun trips. They introduced me to their friends. They let me sing karaoke without judgments. And to top it all off, I slept at a small cottage directly in front of the beach where the waves never stopped to serenade me.

I would be happy to just have a private room in front of the beach, and having people who don't know me accommodate me so graciously made it perfect.

A view of the sea and a chorus of waves from my little cottage by the beach

5. Surigao City

Stayed: 1 night @ Firma's Lodge, 1 night @ Miami City Suites, 2 nights @ Pope John XXIII Pastoral Center
Dined: One Hive Hotel & Suites, Mooon Cafe
Visited: None

Originally planning to head to Siargao immediately upon arrival at Surigao City, I decided to stay a few more days to dedicate some time on work and to avoid the weekend crowd in Siargao. The city doesn't immediately appear to be an interesting one but it actually serves as a jump-off point to a lot of adventure destinations.

I hopped from one accommodation to another in search of budget accommodation, comfortable rooms, and usable wifi. Firma's Lodge was the best budget place I found. The rooms were small with poor ventilation and no extra power outlets but the building was clean and new. Miami City Suites was the best deal I got at a promo rate of Php600 for AC, private toilet, and wifi. But the rate was still too much for my daily budget and it was too comfortable for my own good so I needed to move. The Pastoral Center was an unlikely accommodation option recommended by a tourism officer. I managed to get a double AC room for half the price primarily because I showed up really sweaty with my big backpack.

I didn't do much apart from work and I didn't see much apart from my accommodations, but in more than occasion, I found myself smiling to myself and hopping along, probably out of comfort and satisfaction.

*****
16 days after, I finally got myself to Siargao. The past 2 weeks was already an adventure I never imagined but the succeeding 2 weeks is just overwhelming. This is what travel means to me and I hope people can appreciate it.

Butuan City Travel Guide

Essentially invisible to a tourist's radar, Butuan is a bustling city steeped in Philippine History. The fact that 12th century seafaring boats have been excavated here and the notion that the first Catholic mass may have been celebrated here may not interest most people. However, like the balanghai mother boat that was recently dug up in 2012, Butuan's golden treasures and pioneering adventures still remains to be discovered.

Spots to Visit in Butuan City

1. Balanghai Shrine Museum

Admission: Free

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport. Tell the driver that you're going to the Balanghai Shrine Museum so that he can drop you off at the intersection in Brgy. Libertad. Take a tricycle (Php8) to the museum. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 15-20 mins to the museum, following the main street and keeping right when you reach the junction with a basketball court. Taking the right-hand fork leads to a river, a hanging bridge, and a hill where the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines was supposedly held.

Why Go Here

See an actual balangay and understand how Butuan City came about. This history of the City, as well as of international trading in the Philippines, is closely connected to the existence of the balangays. Also, see a wooden coffin up close including the skulls and treasures that used to be inside them.

Coffins were found alongside the balangays and skeletons were found inside these.	Can you tell which skull is of an older person's and why?

A balangay is a wooden watercraft that is evidence of the Filipino craftsmanship and seamanship during pre-colonial times. It is built with planks of hardwood, wooden pegs, grass ropes, and tree resin (for sealing) and usually measure 15 meters in length and 3 meters in width.The boats were normally used for trade across Southeast Asia as early as the 12th century, way before the arrival of Magellan in the Philippines in the 15th century.

2. National Museum

Admission: Php20

Opening Hours: Mondays-Fridays 9am-4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment

Directions: Take an R1, R2, R3, or R4 multicab headed to Bancasi Airport and get off at Gaisano. At the tricycle terminal (Php8), ask for one that can take you to the National Museum. The tricycle will drive northwest and circle around the City Hall which is at a big rotunda. Alternatively, instead of taking a tricycle, walk 30mins to the museum, following the northwest road opposite Gaisano and crossing the street to the National Museum just before you reach the City Hall rotunda.

Note: The National Museum is currently closed for renovation and expansion but some exhibits may still be available for viewing upon proper permission.

Why Go Here

See a depiction of what a balangay might have really looked like. The balangay is believed to be used not only for trading but also for carrying an entire barangay of people. Also, understand the agriculture and fishing heritage of Butuan and of the other ethnolinguistic groups.

3. Magallanes Shrine

Admission: Free

Directions: Take an R4 multicab (Php8) headed to Butuan City. Tell the driver that you are headed to the PPA Ferry Terminal so he can drop you off at the intersection by the Post Office. Walk towards the tricycle terminal with a small basketball court. This leads directly to the entrance of the Ferry Terminal. Register your name and age and get on the ferry (Php25, 45mins).

Why Go Here

Cruise along the Agusan River pass by more archaeological sites and scenic landscapes. Sites located directly beside the river include the Banza Church ruins, the Balangay boat building site (with an actual-sized balangay on display), ship building yards, and abandoned factories. Also, watch the sunset from the Magallanes Shrine Plaza as it disappears behind the open sea.

A rusty barge is docked at what seems like an old shipyard	A factory with its three chimneys visible without smoke
Magallanes Plaza fronting Magellan Shrine and facing west	A ferry on the way back to Butuan a little before sunset

Suggested Itinerary

With cheaper flights and city comforts, Butuan is an ideal stop-over before going to Siargao. The city-center can easily be explored within a day following the itinerary below:

5:30   ETD Manila-Butuan

8:00   Check-in at preferred accommodation

9:00   Balanghai Shrine Museum

10:30 Butuan National Museum

12:00 Lunch/free time

16:30 Ferry to Magallanes

18:00 Ferry back to Butuan City

Estimated Budget

Particulars	Rate per Person
Multicab from Bancasi Airport to city-center	Php20
Tricycle from city-center to accommodation	Php8
Multicab from city-center to Brgy. Libertad	Php8
Tricycle to Balanghai Shrine Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to Gaisano	Php8
Tricycle to National Museum	Php8
Tricycle back to J.C. Aquino Ave.	Php8
Multicab to PPA Ferry Terminal	Php8
Ferry to Magallanes	Php25
Ferry to Butuan	Php25
Tricycle to city-center	Php8
Total	Php142

Not included: Meals, Accommodation, Flight

Other Things to do in Butuan City

1. Trek to Tagnote Falls in Remedios T. Romualdez

2. Climb Mt. Hilong-Hilong

3. Watch the Butuanons at the local Rizal Park

4. Sample local bread at Tokaido Bakery and Hayashi Breads

Anticipations and Disruptions

It has already been a 3-month wait that was spent on actually attempting to build a stable life in Manila -- consistent friends, a regular work schedule and workplace, and a bi-weekly gym appointment. I have packed my bags, arrived at the airport on time, and made accommodation bookings, but I can't seem to leave just yet. Not that I am unready, but that the airport isn't.

At 4:30am, NAIA T3 was brimming with lines of people trying to get inside. Past the x-ray machine, there's barely walking space across the departure hall. Overhead, check-in counters didn't have the instructive route displays. Uniformed airline representatives were out of sight. And, queues to anywhere weren't progressing. Needless to say, the fragile airport system broke down.

As if confirming the hopeless situation, at 4:45am, electricity went out and airport operations froze.

However, even after Cebu Pacific announced cancellation of several flights, passengers remained hopeful -- staying in line, awaiting further information, queuing at the booking office, and considering other airline operators. I was one of them.

Completely set on departing for and arriving at Butuan on this exact day, I held on to the fact that my flight number wasn't proclaimed cancelled. So I patiently and calmly stayed in line at the drop-bag counter. After a couple of hours observing other passengers, I finally decided to do something and checked with an airline representative. She admitted that although my flight hasn't taken off, it is unlikely that it will and re-booking my flight would be the recommended course of action.

This left me stuck and unproductive. I didn't want to leave only to make the trip to the airport again. I didn't want to wait another day to start my long-awaited trip. And I didn't want to arrive at Butuan late during the day. Regrettably. all alternatives inevitably lead to one of the above.

Now I'm at a coffee shop inside the airport, trying to both wait out the line and to make a decision. It's unfortunate that my trip isn't going as planned and will likely be postponed to another day but it is also an experience that I can draw from and have managed to write something about.

Oh well. Here's to breaking out of Manila eventually.

A snapshot of the lines that extended from the previous night to the afternoon the following day.

PS: News articles have been mentioning a 5-hour outage and I am not sure whether this already refers to the two instances that power went out (one at around 9pm on Saturday and another at around 5am on Sunday). I pity the airlines who had to absorb lost sales, additional costs, and customer rage as well as my fellow passengers who have been unnecessarily inconvenienced and frustrated.

Lamyerda sa Maynila

Ilang beses na rin akong pabalik-balik sa Maynila. At sa bawat bisita, may bago akong nakikita at natututunan. Subalit hindi ko pa rin talaga kayang sabihin na kilala ko na ang siyudad na aking sinilangan.

Kasama ng Smokey Tours, nakulayan ng kwento ang dating gala at masid lang. Ang mga manghuhula, mga mataong eskinita, at mga makukulay na kakanin, may sariling salaysay rin pala. Akala ko alam ko na, hindi pa pala.

"Akala ko alam ko na ang lahat
Ng dapat kong malaman ngunit
Mali na naman, pero ok lang yan...

Wag kang matakot na baka magkamali
Walang mapapala kung di ka magbabakasakali
Dahl lumilipas ang oras, baka ka maiwananan
Kung hindi mo susubukan...

Wag kang matakot na sumikotsikot ka
Sa ganda ng Maynilang araw-araw nakikita
Dahil sulit dito ang oras, baka may mahanap ka
Ba't 'd mo ulit subukan..."

Akala mo totoo, iba pala yung hula

Akala mo gayuma, para pala sa Nazareno

Akala mo Little India, may Muslim Town pala

Akala mo hopeless, may hopia pa pala

Akala mo kasoy, yun pala ay nga-nga

Akala mo madungis, may makikita din naman pala

Akala mo sa Italia, yun pala sa Maynila

Akala mo agahan, pati pala meryenda

Akala mo jeepyney, yun pala ay bus

Akala mo gala lang, yun pala may tours