(Big) Island Hopping

From the powdery beaches of Boracay to the familiar boulevard of Dumaguete

Travel date: 17-30 July 2019
Destinations: Kalibo, Boracay Island, Mararison Island, Iloilo City, Bacolod City, Dumaguete City
Images: Gregg Yan

At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background

At the height of Habagat season, we agreed to take two weeks off to cross the island of Panay in Western Visayas towards Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. I would have done it solo, as usual, but since a few moons ago, adventures and excursions have become a pleasant joint affair.

Melt-in-your-mouth oysters for lunch

Our adventure started in Kalibo, the almost-city capital of Aklan province. I met him at the arrival gate just as the torrential rain stopped and let his plane disembark. We then walked a couple hundred meters, dodging puddles and tourist vans, to catch a late dinner and beer. The following day, we negotiated a tricycle ride (aka the taxis of the old that would bring you literally anywhere at the right price) to New Washington where I almost cried eating melt-in-your-mouth fresh oysters.

Oysters are filter feeders that eat plankton and algae. They are a low-trophic type of seafood, which means that they sit very low on the food chain and are sustainable and low-impact sources of food. Although plant-based food will always be my go-to, locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food is the higher goal.

Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white sand in Boracay Island

Switching to beach mode

Later in the afternoon, I found myself in awe (for the nth time) of White Beach in Boracay. The wind was blowing strongly, the sand was white and powdery as ever, the waves rolled in one after the other, and my eyes twinkled and smiled in a heart-shaped manner. The carpet of tourists that stretched from Station 1 to 3 even added to its appeal and energy.

For the next seven days, we got out of bed late, walked 10,000 steps, ate both cheaply and expensively, sought random adventures, and drank beer before bed. Laptop work was pushed to the back-burner, but only because internet was not available where it should be.

On most afternoons, we headed out to White Beach and played like kids, either in the water or on the sand. On others, we walked into luxury resorts and enjoyed their amenities, sometimes with a resort fee and sometimes for free.

One high-energy activity that we did though, was horse-back riding. We trotted across golfing hills and galloped down beach coves -- by "we" I mean "95% him, 1% me, and 4% our guide". It was my real first experience and it didn't seem as scary or dangerous as I thought. I also didn't expect it to be extremely exhausting.

A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island

Tiny but terrible Mararison

By day 9, heavy rains have descended onto the paradise island. Luckily, we were already on the move towards the tiny island of Mararison in Antique.

Accessible from Culasi Port via a 20-minute boat ride, Mararison* Island (aka Malalison Island) is a 55-hectare hook-shaped picturesque island that features rolling hills, white sand beaches, marine sanctuaries, and a welcoming community. It offers a feast for outdoorsmen and nature lovers with its varied hiking trails, long stretches of sand, and protected snorkelling sites, not to mention it has a cave, a lake, an islet, a solar power plant, and mobile and internet signal.

After asking about local celebrities who have visited and of local spots to check out, we followed Ate Jiji to catch the sunset from Lantawan Peak, all the while badgering her with a million questions and a thousand photographs. She shared both her personal history and her island's history while we posed on steep slopes and beside pitcher plants.

The following morning, we were up and about way before my set alarm. We set out to comb the entire beach for sea glass**, finding some rare colors, and ended up walking over marble boulders at the other side of the island. On the way, we saw kids burying each other in the sand, so-called "jackstones" that break down incoming waves, a washed-up porcupine fish with pouty lips, and several typhoon-damaged house ruins.

*"Mararison" also translates to "the naughty kid/sibling" in the local dialect. Mararison Island is part of a trio of small islands located west off the coast of Antique, together with Maniquin Island and Batbatan Island. It is presumably "the naughtiest" of the three island-siblings.

**Sea glass refers to shards of broken glass that have been weathered by the sea, thus acquiring a frosted appearance and smoothened edges.

I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique

Quickie in the city

After a 6-hour, semi-comfortable, stop-and-go ride aboard a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus, we arrived at our internet- and cable-equipped, white linen-dressed, standard hotel room in Iloilo City. It was an opportunity to catch up with some laptop work and to get some quality sleep, but only for the next 15 hours.

Newspaper hunting in inasal country

Despite the battering rain, we managed to get a taxi to the fastcraft terminal in Iloilo City. The two-hour fastcraft ride to Bacolod City seemed out-of-budget at Php300, but it does include a free movie chosen by whichever midshipman has the remote. In this case, it was Alita: The Battle Angel.

Arriving at Bacolod City, our priorities shifted between getting lunch and finding a newspaper -- both ridiculously difficult goals at that time -- before running out of buses. It was already 3pm and buses run only until 8pm to Dumaguete, which is at least a further 6 hours away.

Almost synonymous to chicken inasal*, or Filipino grilled chicken, majority (if not all) restaurants in Bacolod City specialized in some variation of chicken inasal, while non-meat dishes were unthinkable. We ended up at Manokan Country, a line of local, independent restaurants all dedicated to the local delicacy. I was already settling for rice and plain soup but thought oysters might be okay. Well, I was immobilized with a stomachache the next day.

While I was saving our table at Manokan Country, he made a run to the local central market where newspapers were allegedly found. This was after checking convenience stores, coffee shops, supermarkets, newspaper stands, and bookstores for that Sunday's issue of the Manila Bulletin, the country's largest English language broadsheet newspaper by circulation. At a time when paper publications are dying and in a region where Panay News dominates, it took a great deal of inconvenience, hustling and asking around to grab one of few copies of Manila Bulletin's Panorama.

With these goals ticked, we settled into our air-conditioned Ceres bus seats and drifted to sleep.

*Inasal, esp. chicken inasal, refers to a method of grilling chicken that originated in the City of Bacolod. Typically, specifically-cut chicken parts are marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar, and annatto then grilled over hot coals, and served with rice, soy sauce, chicken oil, and sinamak.

All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps

A meeting of green minds

It was the start of the week and the end of our trip. Work duties have been knocking so we began to transition back to our work routines. This just meant drinking coffee, getting up before 9am, sitting in a cafe or restaurant somewhere, and typing on our laptops.

Additionally, we met up with friends of mine and friends of his for dinner and drinks. This consisted of people from different backgrounds and hometowns who all ended up in Dumaguete that night, primarily because of environment- and conservation-related work. Over Italian-style mushroom pasta, hard goat cheese, gin and tonic, and the requisite San Miguel beer, we exchanged stories from the wild, from previous travels, and of ridiculous anecdotes. Passion and compassion were shared around without actually being said and it felt very comfortable and familiar.

A few hours later, at the break of dawn, we were back in Manila and having a second round of breakfast at McDonald's.

Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-coloured shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating molluscs [right]

Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddleboard instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails

The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grassy lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow

Feeling Amazing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Travel date: 13 December 2018 - 9 January 2019

Chiang Mai is the largest city in mountainous northern Thailand. It is located 700km north of Bangkok and is surrounded by the highest mountains in the country. Founded in 1296, it replaced Chiang Rai as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna. (Note: Chiang Mai means "New City".)

The city is surrounded by a moat and thick walls, which served as defenses against the threatful Taungoo Dynasty and the invading Mongol Empire. It is home to over 300 elaborate Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep atop Doi Suthep mountain and Wat Phra Singh within the city walls.

Historically, Chiang Mai has significant cultural, trading and economic importance, second only to Bangkok. Presently, it is considered as among the best cities for digital nomads, with its speedy internet, low cost of living, and abundance of things to do.

*****

I came to Chiang Mai from Taiwan as it was the cheapest flight route I found from Taipei. I didn't research much and wasn't expecting anything. Fortunately, Chiang Mai became a very pleasant surprise. I enjoyed its small alleyways, its surrounding waterways, its cold evenings and its vegetarian-friendly eateries. It made me see the Thailand that most other travellers see -- "Amazing Thailand".

I spent most of my time cycling around and exploring small alleys inside and outside of the old city walls. Very confusing at first, I eventually learned to navigate with minimal help from Google Maps to find garden restaurants, small coffee shops, and discreet yoga studios. Every street was interesting and seemed to hide something just waiting to be uncovered.

Crossing the big road towards my guesthouse, the setting sun caught my attention and tempted me to explore further instead of going straight home.

Sometimes, my two wheels bring me to one of the many local markets around the city. I hunt for snacks wrapped in banana leaves, browse through the displays of local vegetables and fruits, and even consider purchasing new handmade clothing and native bags.

The local markets are most alive on mornings with various stalls selling fresh produce, cooked meals, packaged pastries and hot beverages.

With the many vegetarian/vegan eateries around the city, I was never bothered to cook for myself. I felt so spoiled with having a lot of affordable, accessible and delicious options -- even non-vegetarian restaurants offer vegetarian options. I didn't really have to think and plan my meals, a very welcome change to the Philippine scene where I always have to "negotiate". 

Cat House was the first vegan/vegetarian restaurant that I ate at in Chiang Mai. Although a bit pricey, they had a good selection of mains, smoothies and cakes. 

During my stay, I found the opportunity to see and listen to local jazz bands at North Gate Jazz Co-op and at Thapae East. I got the tip from a friendly random over dinner at a small restaurant that wasn't actually my target destination. I'm not really a music person and I can't name a favorite song or genre but jazz is definitely one of those I listen to -- not that I understand what jazz music really is.

At North Gate Jazz Co-op, the crowd definitely enjoyed the high-energy, head-banging but not-ear-ringing music of this band. The passionate expression of their drummer is just a bonus. 

Probably the most touristy thing that I did in Chiang Mai, I signed up with Elephant Nature Park, a group that truly cares for the elephants, to experience a day with a trio of elephants. I spent Christmas Day endlessly feeding them with bananas and walking them up a hill and then back down to the river along with their actual caretakers-slash-brothers and other visitors from the US, Taiwan and Latvia.

The mother elephant greedily takes as much bananas as is offered to her, not minding her two daughters right beside her. Although they protect each other, elephants don't share food. 

On some mornings, I cycled through the early morning chill to join the local group of yoga practitioners for a free session at the park. The group composed of international yoga teachers who are living in or just passing by Chiang Mai and who are volunteering to lead public yoga sessions at most twice daily for free. It was a different experience practicing yoga at a public open space instead of in a private studio.

Unlike in the controlled environment of a yoga studio, peace and quiet is a game of chance at the park. In one session, motorized grass-cutters provided our ambient music.

My last couple of days in Chiang Mai luckily coincided with Monk Chat's weekly overnight meditation retreat. Held on Tuesdays till Wednesdays, their Buddhist meditation retreat is perfect for newbies who might not be up to the challenge of 10-day and 21-day silent retreats. Although I can go days without talking to anyone, I still found it difficult and awkward and I couldn't meditate anymore by the morning.

Guided by Phra KK, we practised seating, walking, standing and lying down meditation. It was my second exposure to meditation during which I had moments of feeling "high".

Towards the end of my stay in Chiang Mai, I realized how happy I have been for the past couple of months. I met some really inspiring people, I ate so much good food, I slept very well, and I was living in one of the nicest and most pleasant cities. I can only be thankful. :)

Zero-Waste Fails and Mini-Wins

I just wrote about pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle but here I am in Kaohsiung, Taiwan and incredibly failing at it. Every day, I eat lunch out of a paper box, wipe away dirt with tissue paper, and throw away plastic bags or plastic packaging. The reality is that our society is designed around convenience and single-use "disposables" are extremely convenient.

I get lunch with local friends from food stalls along the street which cannot be expected to provide reusable containers for take-aways. They systematically receive orders, prepare it, and pack it either in paper boxes or plastic bags, often with a rubber band to prevent spillage or in another plastic bag for easier carrying. Disrupting this system by presenting your own food container would cause confusion, delay, and annoyance (not to mention that street vendors are normally old local people who only speak the local dialect and zero tourist English.) Although it is possible to insist on your own container, it prompts a significantly higher friction that I admit would bring no benefit.

On my first day in the city, my local friend treated me to his favorite Black Milk Tea Latte. It has been months since I held a plastic cup and sipped from a plastic straw.

Regrettably, I cannot entirely boycott street food for practical and social reasons. Doing so would mean affording only one meal per day and missing out on the only dedicated time to connect with other people. And as long as our society remains driven by convenience and efficiency, this is the reality.

Nevertheless, I strive to reduce my consumption, especially when I am by myself and choices fall more within my control. I refused that extra plastic bag and carried my take-out box in my hands instead. I brought my own shopping bag when I purchased fruits from the fruit market I stumbled upon. I requested to leave out the plastic straw and the plastic seal when I bought a longan fruit drink from that stall where no other customer was in line. Surprisingly, vendors easily understand when I wave away the plastic bags they are about to put my purchases in. They also don't offer me twice or give me puzzled looks.

Zero-waste win! Although the drink is still in a plastic-coated paper cup, I was able to do away with the plastic seal, the plastic straw, and the plastic bag. The dragon fruit and apples also fit nicely with my packable shopping bag.

Being in a foreign place where I have less alternatives and where communication is more challenging, I am succumbing to convenience and to what is readily available. However, I do remain aware of my recyclable and non-recyclable consumption (which is what I am advocating for, read:awareness). I am also starting to find it not so difficult to refuse or to hand-back that extra plastic bag and plastic straw.

This gives me hope. Hope that I will be more committed to a waste-less lifestyle and hope that the world is heading there as well.

Update:

I am now in Chiang Mai, Thailand and am finding zero-waste living here surprisingly very easy. There are a lot of local markets where I can purchase unpackaged fruits and vegetables and put them in my shopping bag. There are also some vendors that package cooked meals and street snacks in banana leaves. When I went to the Saturday Night Walking Market, I brought my Lock n Lock container and Healthy Human tumbler with me and had no difficulty requesting the vendors to put my salad and shake in those instead. There was even one vendor who seemed to be congratulating me for opting for a tumbler and refusing a straw ("mai ao ka") and also showed her tumbler to me. All is good. :)

Note: Recycling is big in Taiwan. It produces more recyclable waste than unusable waste and has its own recycling supply chain. The food boxes and the beverage cups are recyclable. Nevertheless, reducing waste should still be the first priority and recycling the last option. 

I Feel Like a New Person...Again

In the past year, I made several conscious changes with regards to how I live my life and how I make an impact. I continued to assume a digital nomad lifestyle, which meant working from wherever my laptop is and being based wherever my backpack is. Also, I switched to a vegetarian diet wherein I no longer eat red meat (pork, beef), white meat (chicken) and seafood (fish, shells), as well as eggs and milk. Lastly, I started to pursue a zero-waste lifestyle by refusing single-use plastics (straws, cups, bags) and by buying from public markets instead of from supermarkets.

With these changes, I felt more aligned with my personal values. And this is probably the first time that I stopped considering "what I should be doing" and accepted that "what I want to be doing" is entirely different.

Living Nomadic

A few years ago, I made the decision to travel full-time and to live locally (rather than touristy) wherever I am. I realized that nothing actually required me to stay in Manila. I was already working remotely with no physical office I had to report to, and I was single and unattached with no one to part from. Also, I had a surplus of savings, no debts to pay and no dependents to support. It was an ideal setup.

My initial plan was to "test whether I really can build a sustainable travel lifestyle". I began by going on one-month multi-country trips, staying back in Manila for a few months to work, going out again for a month or so, and then staying back again for a longer period than I was out. But that wasn't full-time travelling and I felt dissatisfied with my half-assed attempt.

So I made a follow-up decision to make an all-out attempt and see where my guts and my savings can really take me. I travelled within the country without a return date, picking out destinations I haven't been to and making plans along the way. At several points, my account balance approached zero but I was always saved by friends or new-found friends without them knowing it.

Most recently, I have been able to stay out of Manila for a year -- albeit with quick visits in between. I rented apartments and lived with other travellers, becoming a local expat myself. I spent most days working on my laptop out of coffee shops but found time on off-days to explore a bit farther or to soak up the local sun.

Currently, I am making another decision to continue moving and resist the temptation of staying. Although travelling asks me to give up the comfort of familiarity and of knowing what to expect on an almost daily basis, it nevertheless empowers me to pursue the life that I feel most comfortable with.

FAQs

Where are you going next?
In two days, I am due to fly to Taiwan and then to Thailand where I will end and start the year. As my Filipino passport is only allowed 14 days in Taiwan, I will do a "visa run" to Chiang Mai just so I can spend about 30 days exploring Taiwan, specifically Kaohsiung, Kenting, Meinong, Tainan and Taipei. Afterwards, I will gauge whether I want to stay in Chiang Mai, which is one of the digital nomad capitals in the world, or move out to a quieter area in Thailand.

Where are you from?
When travelling abroad, I say that I'm from the Philippines. Easy. When travelling within the Philippines, I normally say that I'm from Manila, just because that's where I have lived the longest (about a decade). However, I spent my childhood in Laguna and my teenhood in Batangas (both provinces that are 2-3 hrs south of Manila) although none of my parents or family are from there.

Where do you live?
I live where you currently find me. I am writing this in Manila where I have been living for the past couple of months. But that's going to change in a couple of days.

Outside of Manila and Batangas, I always find it awkward to respond "I live here" when I obviously look like a foreigner or a non-local. I think unless a person is seen as employed in that place, it is difficult to perceive that someone is a local resident.

It was during a solo travel to Moalboal, Cebu that I learned to drive a motorcycle by asking my tricycle driver to teach me. He called me a daring fast-learner as I drove at 60kph along the National Road while he "comfortably" sat at the back.

Switching to Vegetarian

Although growing up with some form of meat always on the table, I don't really have strong attachments to it. I do appreciate its taste and texture but don't enjoy its oiliness and heaviness. Eventually, I started questioning my reasons for eating meat (out of habit and culture) and started looking for ways to replace meat from my plate but couldn't find any. As compromise, I opted for chicken or fish, thinking that those are healthier and pose less impact, but continued to feel dissatisfied, thinking that there must be another alternative.

Fortunately, I ended up living with vegan/vegetarians and learned from them how easy and practical it is to maintain a vegetarian diet. We bought common vegetables (tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, bell peppers, sayote, monggo) from the local market and simply cooked them into a stir-fry or curry. We ate a whole food, plant-based diet every day and all meals were delicious and nutritious without ever feeling bloated or weak, or missing meat.

I discovered a whole new world of vegetarian eating. I learned about quinoa, lentils, and Vegemite and experimented with vegan banana pancakes and avocado toasts. I realized that there are so much more (and more flavorful) choices beyond pork adobo, grilled chicken and fried fish, and that lots of common dishes can be made vegetarian by simply leaving out the meat/seafood component (e.g. tinola, sinigang, kare-kare).

Whilst feeding myself remains a daily struggle (which it has always been), I know I will never go back to eating meat. I don't experience cravings and don't consider those as food anymore, especially in the midst of sustainability and climate change issues. Most importantly, I feel in better control of what I eat.

FAQ's

Why did you decide to become vegetarian?
There are numerous reasons for deciding to become vegetarian. The turning point for me was realizing how commercialized and mindless the food industry is. It is motivated solely by profits without regard for anyone's health, well-being and satisfaction. Everything is merely represented by numbers in a spreadsheet whereas food is supposed to be nourishing, valuable and appreciated. Although this is also true about vegetables and fruits, I can at least consume it in its natural form. A carrot looks like a carrot whilst we sometimes miss the connection between sausages and pigs.

Other than that, there's:

• Human do not need to eat meat. We do it for pleasure instead of survival.
• It's easier to handle, store and cook vegetables than chicken and fish.
• Pigs, cows, chickens, fish and seafood are living creatures just like you and me. They are not meant to live and die in factories and farms for our consumption (and pleasure).
• Meat dishes are normally very oily and are more difficult to digest.
• Meat production is no longer sustainable and is among the major contributors to climate change.

How long have you been vegetarian?

I have been vegetarian since April 2017, though not strictly. There were instances that I ate batchoy with pork innards, Wagyu fine steak and tilapia stewed in coconut milk but I don't enjoy it anymore. With the steak specifically, I had a stomachache for a full week.

What exactly do you eat?

When eating out, I go to normal restaurants, but avoid those that specialize in meat-based dishes, e.g. Mang Inasal, Tapa King and Peri-Peri Chicken. I look for vegetable-based dishes and request to leave out the meat bits, if any. For example, chopsuey and pinakbet are vegetable-based but sometimes include shrimp and liver. I don't actually just order salads as those are not full meals. If I'm cooking, I make stir-fry tomato-halves with okra and garlic, stir-fry kangkong with red onions, oatmeal with banana and apple slices, or lentils with stewed tomatoes and carrots.

On the plate: sliced cherry tomatoes, grated beets, grated carrots, pumpkin seeds, diced sweet potatoes, chickpeas, sprouted sunflower seeds, and hummus. This isn't how I eat every day but look at how colorful and diverse a veggie meal can be!

Pursuing Zero-Waste

Probably the most difficult and frustrating of my ideals, pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle requires constant discipline, planning and research. At the same time, I think it is one thing that I should stick to and that everyone should pursue -- and not just consider or tolerate.

To live zero-waste is to aim to generate the least amount of garbage possible so that virtually no trash will end up in landfills, incinerators or the ocean. More than practicing "Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.", for me this means purchasing only what is necessary and many times reusable, and refusing what I will not use even if freely given. This includes purchasing a stainless steel tumbler that I can reuse for my drinking water, hot coffee and fruit shakes, and refusing random giveaways such as notepads and shampoo sachets that I already have too many of.

What makes zero-waste living challenging is that there is an opportunity to generate waste at every move. The toiletries I use, the coffee I drink, the clothes I wear, and even the pen I write with all produce trash that is not recyclable and not compostable. Although I can make simple switches like using shampoo bars instead of bottled shampoos, getting coffee at coffee shops instead of making my own, buying second-hand clothes instead of new ones, and writing with pencils or high quality pens, I am still directly or indirectly generating waste.

Although it may seem pointless to even try, I think it is still necessary not because it might save the world but because it might save us from ourselves. Imagine taking out the garbage once a week instead of everyday, not accumulating paper bags and plastic bags from groceries, having less clutter and more space in the house, and choosing fresh fruits for snacks instead of potato chips.

Admittedly, my zero-waste journey is still far from ideal and may never be. However, I do my best in every situation and will continue doing so, striving a balance between consumption and conservation.

Some simple steps:

• Putting my groceries and purchases in a reusable shopping bag instead of in a paper bag or plastic bag
• Using my receipts as notepads instead of purchasing a notebook (though this might not be professional enough in a business setting)
• Switching to a bamboo toothbrush that is compostable unlike a normal toothbrush with a plastic handle (though the bristles are still synthetic and non-compostable)
• Buying whole fruits without plastic packaging instead of cut-up fruits in plastic trays
• Dining in at restaurants instead of taking out or ordering deliveries
• Switching to a menstrual cup and menstrual cloth pads that are more hygienic and cheaper than sanitary napkins and tampons
• Refusing straws and using my lips instead or requesting for a spoon when consuming thick fruit shakes (straws are really unnecessary and non-essential and wasteful)
• Switching to silicone freezer bags and silicone stretch covers from Ziploc bags and cling wraps
• Refusing any kind of packaging whenever possible, e.g. that clear plastic packaging when purchasing clothes, that carton box when I bought my tumbler
• Buying mobile credits electronically instead of buying a plastic prepaid card in plastic packaging
• Requesting for coffee mugs and metal cutlery instead of consuming food and beverages with paper cups and plastic utensils

Instead of accepting brochures, calling cards and flyers, I take a picture of the information I need. In this way, I have nothing to throw away or to add to my luggage, and it is easier to find and to keep information that may be useful in the future.

*****

Although I do promote them, I made these lifestyle changes not because someone told me to do so but because I see the value in them. My decisions make sense for me, considering what I deem important and acceptable, but not for everyone. And that is okay. My only hope is that for more people to take more active and conscious steps towards what is most meaningful and most valuable for them, even though it may not be the most convenient.

The Loneliness of Pursuing a Life

The mid- to late-20s is probably the strangest and loneliest that most people can feel. It is when they start exploring their own interests and passions and discover all the possibilities that they can pursue. But it is also when they start to realize their own burdens and responsibilities and make decisions that they have to see through. And so, friends find new friends to spend time with, set different careers and goals to pursue, and increasingly walk along separate paths to varied destinations.

This is something that I heard from a mid-20-year-old guy when I was an early-20-year-old. At that time, I didn't really understand what he meant. But recently, his words have been coming back to me and have been making more and more sense.

I started this blog in 2015, marking the 2nd year that I decided to set goals and strive towards them. Since then, I have been finding myself in surreal situations that kept reminding me of how fortunate I am. I have been to the best beaches and islands in the Philippines and to some in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand. I have been to 30m below sea level and to several hundred meters above on foot. I have met world-class athletes and world-changing individuals who are also the nicest and least entitled people I know.

However, the farther I travel, the more experiences I pursue, and the more people I encounter, the stranger and lonelier I truly feel. It seems that every step I take along this chosen path is another step away from what used to be familiar, normal and comfortable.

Although I really do live for chasing after new experiences and new destinations, I am finding it more and more difficult to relate with other people. Back in school, everyone is aiming for timely graduation, taking the same exams and programs, and have lived the same number of years. Inside the office, most everyone hates the same boss, complains about the same working conditions, and renders too much overtime at some point.

But now with my nomadic freediver lifestyle, I very rarely meet someone who is the same age as I am or is in the same stage of life. Whilst I want to travel like a local and spend my days at the local coffee shop, others have too much energy and too little time to be satisfied with that. Whilst freediving is the only sport I ever did, others have some physical background to draw resilience and techniques from. There's an infinitely diverse range of goals, intentions, struggles and advantages, in addition to nationalities, ages and civil status, that finding a karamay* is a real diamond.

Hence, there are many times when I feel lost and down, look at everyone surrounding me, and see no one seemingly going through something similar.

But this is not to say that I haven't made real personal connections throughout my gallivanting. Even with my introvertedness and fear of being rejected, misunderstood or found out, I've met a few people whom I consider friends and can hang out with.

This is my new reality now. And though I really am thankful for it, I do wish to find people who are also going through similar roadblocks at the same time.

Taken by Summer at Dumaluan Beach, Panglao, Bohol. Summer was my overall Panglao buddy whom I only found because I impulsively decided to invest in a freediving course. If my stinginess prevailed, my stay in Panglao wouldn't have been as special.

*Karamay - n. roughly translates to "accomplice" or "companion", karamay is a Tagalog word that refers to someone who can sympathize with someone else, often experiencing the same struggles at the same time. I think the English translation does not give justice to the depth of meaning of the word.

Settling Down and Setting Out

In the past year or so, I have been settling down to a less nomadic lifestyle. Instead of monthly backpacking trips to new and undiscovered places, I travelled back to familiar places and stayed for months, assuming a more regular rhythm of working, relaxing and training. I completely unpacked my backpack and stashed it in one corner -- something that I normally do after coming back to Manila and not after arriving at a tropical beach island. I feel like I'm finally growing up.

*****

In April 2017, I put down my backpack to live with four other strangers in a 2-storey apartment in Panglao, Bohol. We all volunteered to be part of a dolphin survey project, which lasted for three months. It was my first step towards marine conservation and a baby step away from capitalism, but as getting paid remains essential, I had to combine both.

On early mornings, I worked with the team to collect data and information about the local dolphin tourism industry in Panglao Island. In the evenings, I worked by myself on my laptop to deliver business plan projects. It was difficult adjusting both to living with other people and to juggling two different jobs. Nevertheless, by the end of the three-month period, I have gained new friends who are similarly unconventional, as well as more clarity towards the person I want to be, whilst keeping my job and my salary.

We normally arrive at Doljo Beach just as the sun is rising, excitedly greeted by the dog pack of Doljo. On some mornings, the sky lit up like it was on fire amidst a cool sea breeze.

In September 2017, after a short solo backpacking trip that included me skipping two days of meals for lack of currency, I reunited with my grumpy-old-man in Koh Tao, Surat Thani, Thailand. He was taking his Instructor's Course while I was recovering from my freediving injuries. It was our first international trip together, which actually didn't go as we hoped.

While he was busy with his day-long classes and sessions, I was idle without work and money. I didn't have active projects to work on during the day and I couldn't withdraw money from my card to spend on exploring the island, so I felt stuck and dependent on him. Even though I tried working on my personal projects and resolved to borrow funds from him, the constant feelings of guilt and constraint made me anxious. It was three weeks of struggling to be okay and pretending to be better.

On the only day I dared to drive alone up and down Koh Tao's steep roads, I successfully and safely arrived at Tanote Bay. I spent the afternoon snorkelling, people-watching and sun-bathing.

In November 2017, after a hectic month back in Manila, catching up with friends, working on projects and volunteering in a non-profit convention, I decided to come with my grumpy-old-man to Boracay Island. Although I initially found myself jobless again and attempted to find local employment, I ended up juggling three different clients along with training for freediving -- a stark contrast from the previous month.

On most days, I hopped from one coffee shop to another for work, walking along White Beach and dodging tourists in between. On less demanding days, I scheduled freediving courses and training sessions, struggling against less-flat and less-warm waters. It was the real first time I assumed a digital nomad lifestyle -- working and living simultaneously in a place of my choosing -- and I made it sustainable. By the end of January 2018, I had to leave for fieldwork in Manila but I felt satisfied and fulfilled.

Regardless of how crowded and polluted it was, Boracay amazed me every day with its powder-white sand and clear blue skies. Whenever life starts to feel heavy, I would walk the stretch of White Beach, comforted by the soft sand and breeze.

In February 2018, after an out-of-town reunion with UKworkinggirl and her squad in El Nido, Palawan, I headed to Siargao, Surigao del Norte. I devised a goal of scouting for a hostel business opportunity, drawing from a feeling two years ago that it could be the island I can finally settle in. Unfortunately, with the recent tourism boom, the island underwent drastic commercialization, resulting in inflated prices.

Nevertheless, arriving at the island vaguely felt like coming home. I squealed with every shop I recognized and gaped at all the new establishments. I stayed at my old hostel and re-introduced myself to the friends I previously made, as well as made new friends at the native studio I transferred to. For more than a month, I cycled between working on my laptop, practising yoga, attempting to surf and understanding the local economy, but the island had become a tourist trap so I had to leave for good.

Arriving at Cloud9 for the first time a few years ago, I gazed in awe at the endless roaring waves and the calm shallows. These days, locals refer to the platform as Crowd9, adding that the island is on its way to becoming the next Boracay.

Since March 2018 , I have been back and living in Panglao, Bohol as a result of personal choice and opportunistic circumstances. Now approaching my 4th month, the longest that I have stayed outside of Manila and Batangas (and my ongoing PB in nomadic living), I have laid down some roots in the form of long-term lodging, go-to coffee shops, familiar faces, and international friends.

Within that period, I have been in and out of the island for travel, work and family -- to Singapore for freediving and conservation, to Dumaguete for an organizational meeting, and to Manila, Davao and Cebu for family reunions. Additionally, I have initiated a citizen science project on the conservation of marine turtles around the island and have been completing a Master's course on freediving, all whilst keeping my employers happy, running on island time, and working out relationship drama.

Unlike other beaches, Alona Beach has always given me mixed feelings. Its turquoise waters are somewhat tempting but its boat traffic is always discouraging. But then, I haven't really spent enough time uncovering its secret pockets.
(I don't have enough pictures from Panglao so I am stealing this from ProbinsyaLeavesTown)

Although I've always had a love-hate relationship with the island -- its lack of exciting activities and of social opportunities balanced by its optimal freediving conditions and accessibility to both beach and city life -- I do consider it as my new home, akin to Manila. It has introduced me to a new reality, enabled me towards unthinkable achievements and forced me to overcome myself. Unfortunately, similar to Manila, I feel like it is becoming too comfortable, too familiar and too near and that I should soon get out.

And so, I have started considering new destinations -- trips that would force me back to my detailed itineraries and to my wide-eyed gazes, trips that would challenge my street smarts and my world ideals, and trips that would anger me to my limit or comfort me towards restful sleep. Regardless, I would like to continue living a semi-nomadic lifestyle of almost settling down before setting back out.

*****

Back in 2015, I remember proclaiming to a fellow nomad in our Kyoto house that I am pursuing a sustainable travel lifestyle and would like to travel continuously for at least two years. Well, at least half of that statement has come true. It's probably high time that I pursue that second half.

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Solo Travel: Same Same but Different

I remember the time when travelling solo was the scariest thing in the world. There was nothing in particular that I was scared about but I was scared out of my wits. I kept imagining vague scenarios that quickened my pulse and kept me awake.

At the same time, it was also the most exciting thing in the world. It presented a totally novel and insane idea that was so out of my current world. I dreamed of unknown opportunities, destinations, and experiences that outweighed the fears and kept me moving.

When I first explored the idea of solo travel, travelling outside of work obligations and family holidays was a very young concept. Most people travel not out of want but of need while the rest simply had the time and money to spare. In my case, however, I travelled purely because of want and strict budgets have to be set to make it possible.

Because of this, whenever I tell people that I am going somewhere, they find it difficult to understand that I am not doing it for work and that I am neither on a holiday. What's more, I go alone with only my laptop and phone for company. They respond with so much confusion that I tend to question myself as well.

Nevertheless, I do know that travelling solo is something that I sincerely enjoy and am passionate about. While most people turn away from the work of making plans and arrangements for their vacations, I indulge in carefully designing my routes -- uncovering different means of moving from one place to another, searching diligently for prices and fares, and picking out known and unknown locations. To me, the journey matters more than the destination and stepping onto a new place is more breathtaking than the sceneries. It's not uncommon that I suddenly pause with the realization that I am, once again, headed to somewhere unfamiliar.

Now two years since I began my pursuit, I realized that travelling solo no longer scares or excites me. Gone are the wild thoughts and baseless worries that fed my doubts. Gone also are the hopeful anticipation and hazy daydreams that filled me with wonder. Instead, I feel comfort, normality, and familiarity even when arriving for the first time in a country whose language I cannot decode.

Though the experience is markedly different now, the same things that compelled me to travel solo persist still. I may no longer walk around with wide-eyed wonder like a kid in an amusement park, or with paranoid unease for pre-empting mistakes, but each new environment still amazes me and each unknown still worries me. Most importantly, I travel still because I want to expand my comfort zone and to incorporate more places into my personal reality.

Definitely, my preferences and goals will continue to change as I gain more years and experiences. But I am sure that no matter how familiar and unexciting solo travel becomes, it will never stop being amazing and breath-taking (add: insane).

Taken by yelmalab in Batanes, Philippines. Biking is definitely the best way (and most hardworking) way to explore a new location. This trip gave birth to this blog's forerunner, The Hardworking Traveller.

Tips for a Budget-Friendly Travel

Whenever I travel solo, I always make budget my top priority. This is because I want to make travel a part of my normal lifestyle. I try to spend as much as what I would normally spend if I am in Manila, the difference being I have to factor in more expenses like accommodation, entrance fees, and activities. The tips below help me keep to my budget and support me in building a sustainable travel lifestyle.

1. Walk

Budget: Php 0

Aside from costing zero, walking also burns calories and strengthens the body. I love walking and I walk everywhere I can, be it the early morning, middle of the day, or late evening. This is how I normally familiarize myself with a new place, akin to calibrating a compass, and it also enables me to feel the general vibe of the place.

Depending on what is on the street level, walking can be boring but it can also lead you to stumble upon a hole-in-a-wall, a specialty store, or a fortunate event. Sometimes I even amuse myself at how far I've walked, ending up at a different district supposedly several kilometers away.

Walk to save on pesos, burn some calories, and inhale the city (literally).

2. Take Public Transportation

Budget: Php 8-40

If I don't have the time and/or energy to walk, I take public transportation including tricycles and motorcycles, jeepneys and multicabs, trains, etc.

Tricycles and motorcycles don't have fixed routes so I just ask the driver if he can take me to where I want to go and for how much. (Note: I have yet encountered a female driver. Tell me if you had.) Jeepneys and multicabs are trickier but I also normally ask the driver whether he is going where I am headed and to tell me when I should get off. Trains are trickiest because there is little information about navigating the stations and getting tickets and I have to know beforehand which station I need to get off at.

Taking public transport is also a good way to familiarize myself with a new place and I already normally know the routes to take and the stops to say by the second day.

Bonus Tip #1: In Luzon, say "para" to signal the driver to stop. In Visayas and Mindanao, say "lugar lang" instead.

Bonus Tip #2: For commuting around Manila and to some places around the Philippines, check ph-commute.com.

Compared to motorcycles and tricycles, jeepneys and multicabs are safe because they take fixed routes

3. Avoid Chartered Vehicles

Savings: Php 150-3,000

As much as possible, I avoid chartering my own transportation, including the habal-habal (motorcycle). Aside from taking up a large percentage of my daily budget, it forces me into a one-on-one with my driver. Although this presents a great opportunity to quiz him about anything and everything about the place and to gain local insight, it really is a game of luck of whether he will be friendly enough or too friendly.

To avoid such situations, I ask about alternative ways of getting from one place to another, even if it involves multiple transfers or lots of walking.

Habal-habal drivers idly wait for passengers. Most of the time, you can hail one by the side of the road.

4. Ask around for Alternatives

Budget: Varies

In line with the above, I have discovered that there is always another way of getting around, depending on how committed you are. Let me count the ways:

a. Walking -- Some travellers walk for hours on rugged terrain to get to a secluded waterfalls without chartering a habal-habal. I personally have walked 4kms with my full pack to avoid paying an overpriced Php100 tricycle fare. Along the way, I had the best taho ever.

b. Commuting with multiple transfers -- Chartered vehicles are perfect for conveniently going from one place to another. It is fast and direct but relatively expensive. Sometimes, public transportation is also possible but may take longer and more transfers.

c. Joining another group -- For boat tours especially, it is possible to come up and ask whether you can join their group and share in the rental fee. I once joined a group of students noisily taking pictures so that I didn't have to charter a boat of 15pax for myself.

5. Hitchhike

Budget: Php 0

To be used with extreme caution and in selected circumstances only, hitchhiking is not only free but also a thrill. I have hitchhiked on top of a garbage truck to avoid a steep climb, aboard a private boat to directly cross between islands, and on an MMDA Officer's motorbike to skip a traffic bottleneck. Again, use with extreme caution and in selected circumstances only.

Note: I haven't actually stood at the side of a road and held up my thumb. I don't recommend that.