What Makes A Good Solo Travel Destination?

Solo travel presents an exciting and thrilling opportunity to reconnect with self, to meet new friends, and to get away from everything. However, it also comes with a sense of extreme unfamiliarity, of self-doubts, and of perceived loneliness. It eliminates the restriction of considering other people's preferences but also the comfort of having someone else to rely on.

For me, solo travel always, ALWAYS, brings a confusing mix of fear and adventure -- one that I'll never get over. But with a little help, I somehow manage to get over my anxieties and get myself on that plane. So this time, drawing from my experience, I want to be that help to someone.

This guide is an attempt to provide guidance to those interested in pursuing their first solo travel. It is my hope to encourage individuals, Filipinos especially, to travel more and to focus on discoveries rather than checklists.

So, what makes a good solo travel destination?

1. Somewhere you can socialize and make new friends

Although you will be travelling alone and are preparing to enjoy the company of one, you don't actually have to be alone the entire trip. It would be a good idea to have access to people when you decide that you want company.

Consider the following:

• More people travel on weekends than on weekdays.
• Accessible destinations get more visitors than isolated ones.
• Hostels and dormitories are more conducive to meeting fellow guests than hotels.

2. Somewhere you can interact with locals

"When you travel with company, you tend to build a connection with those people. But when you travel alone, you are given an opportunity to build a connection with the place."

- A friend told me once 'cause I kept leaving him.

Aside from walking around and seeing the place, a good way to go about this is by talking to the locals and getting to know them. Ask them where they're originally from, how they came about settling down in that place, and what they think of the tourists that come and go. It'll be surprising and amusing.

3. Somewhere you can choose solitude

Along with enabling yourself to be in the company of fellow travellers and local residents, it would also be a good idea to be able to be alone when you want to -- it is, after all, a solo travel. This will allow you to contemplate on what you've seen and experienced so far and to decide whether you like it or not.

Tip:

• For hostels and dormitories, the bed area is normally considered a private space akin to private rooms in hotels
• On most occasions, sitting silently alone while staring out into the distance signals people to keep away
• Long transits, like in a bus or a boat, always presents an opportunity to be alone with your thoughts while being surrounded with people

4. Somewhere you can access your personal comforts

If being alone away from your friends and your room isn't uncomfortable enough, then being alone with no access to wifi, electricity, or lighting would definitely be. To balance this, it helps to have something to do that you like in case you end up somewhere with no one to talk to and with nothing interesting to do.

Consider the following:

• Some destinations will not have good cellphone reception. Check with your hotel/hostel beforehand.
• Some transits may take longer than expected and electricity outlets will not always be available. A power bank will keep your batteries charged longer.
• Some places will turn out to be less than expected and not interesting at all. A quick internet search can help you move to another place or find something to do.

5. Somewhere you can do both solo and group activities

Since travelling solo can be more expensive than travelling with a group, being able to choose between activities that cater specifically to a single person or to a group would help control your budget.

Tip:

• Activities like surfing, diving, and biking are charged per person and can be done on your own.
• Activities like hiking, canyoneering, and island-hopping are charged per group and is ideally done with a group.

Wherever you decide to go on your own, try to open yourself up to new experiences, new ideas, and new people. More than anything, solo travel made me see that there is so much more kindness in the world than otherwise. Ingat.

How do you travel?

People travel for different reasons. Some travel for leisure, some for business, some for self-discovery, and some for companionship. Whatever the purpose is, I think there's a certain and appropriate way of doing it -- as with all things life -- that would not only help achieve the goal but also transform the experience.

Unfortunately, not many people know that there are options outside of booking tours and hiring travel agents. Because of this, they may not be able to achieve their travel goals and fail to see travelling as a significant learning experience.

I officially started travelling full-time in 2014 and for a long time, I have always felt something missing and unfulfilled in my trips. Eventually, I realized that my travel style may not be a match with my travel goals. So I questioned my preferences until I found more meaning and pleasure in my trips.

Below are some questions that you can also ask yourself to check whether you are getting what you want from your travels:

1. Travel planning

How do you plan for your travels and choose your destinations? Do you prefer doing your own research or taking suggestions from other people? Or do you skip planning at all and just figure it all out along the way?

What's in my travel kit: plane tickets, DIY itinerary, Lonely Planet guide book, and Google Maps

How some people do it: Travel agents

For people who don't have the time and energy to figure the place out, they employ travel agents. These travel agents would already have an extensive list of destinations and activities for the traveller. Some would be bundled up in packages as day-to-day itineraries and include everything from food to transportation to refreshments. This is the most convenient and safest way to go as everything is already pre-arranged and the visiting foreigner need only to show up at the chosen time and date. However, it is also the most expensive as it utilizes a business service.

For people who are more comfortable with spontaneity and adventure, they figure it out when they get to their destination. There will likely be more than enough tourist assistants to suggest activities and places and if not, there will always be Google.

How I do it: Do-It-Yourself

As someone with more time and energy than money, I do my own planning and itineraries. I usually scour the internet for interesting out-of-the way destinations and alternative cheap activities, putting in considerable hours and thinking to it. In this way, I have total control as to where I want to go, what I want to see, what I want to do, and when I want to move. And because of this, I end up at destinations only locals know of and with activities travel agencies won't suggest.

2. Getting there

How do you intend to go around your destination? Are you comfortable taking public transportation or do you prefer having a private car at your whim?

Un-air-conditioned van service from Laoag to Claveria

How most people do it: Hired transport
New places are difficult to navigate. And not everyone have a strong sense of direction or is willing to get lost. To avoid wasting time on going around in circles, most people prefer hiring their own transport. These could vary from tourist vans/buses, taxis to hired tricycles. The driver usually doubles as the tour guide so the foreigner gets to all the popular spots at the fastest and most convenient way possible.

How I do it: Public transportation, the cheapest way possible
I have a good enough sense of direction and I don't mind getting lost* so I can craft my way around towns and destinations. I get really creative as I want to spend as little as possible but at the same time soak in as much of the place as I can. Modes of transportation that I've taken so far include biking around an island, hitchhiking on a garbage truck, toploading on a bus, and dangling from a jeep. I take normal modes too though, if necessary.

*I love wandering aimlessly. I don't think I get lost because I don't have a destination in the first place. When I get uncomfortable as to where I am heading, I seek legit directions.

3. Accommodation

How much sleeping comfort are you willing to give up? Or how much of your travel budget are you willing to allocate to lodging? Do you feel that you really need your own room or are you comfortable sharing with strangers?

Slept in an old hole-y tent at Kalanggaman Island

How most people do it: Hotels
People hold on to their comfort zones as much as they can. And while travelling, this translates to a private air-conditioned hotel room furnished with white linen and a dresser.

How I do it: Dorm rooms (where available) and fan rooms
Accommodations, unless with a friend, is expensive. I allocate at the most 50% of my daily budget for a soft bed and secure locker. Hotels are definitely out of my radar as I don't believe on spending for something I'll only be using for a few hours each night.

4. Travel Goals

What do you want to achieve from the trip? Are you looking for something? Or do you just want to cross the destination out from your list?

Catching waves while watching sunsets in Liwliwa

How most people see it: To see all the spots in travel brochures
Due to unfamiliarity to a new destination, most people use travel brochures and "must-see's" as their only reference. Although this definitely hits all the noteworthy spots, it misses spots where locals go to, and may even feel manufactured.

How I see it: To see the place as locals see it
I personally hate places that are too commercialized or touristy because it doesn't feel natural. It feels like it has been modified to reflect what visitors prefer instead of what the place really offers. Because I have so much time on my hands, I do intense research -- going beyond lists, scouring Google Maps, finding the most off-the-beaten-path destination. Although I tend to miss the usual tourist destinations, I see something else and often with no other tourists around.

Disclaimer: The above analyses are based mostly on my travels in the Philippines. Popular travelling styles may differ in other countries and I acknowledge that I don't have a strong view on this.

I Feel Like a New Person...Again

In the past year, I made several conscious changes with regards to how I live my life and how I make an impact. I continued to assume a digital nomad lifestyle, which meant working from wherever my laptop is and being based wherever my backpack is. Also, I switched to a vegetarian diet wherein I no longer eat red meat (pork, beef), white meat (chicken) and seafood (fish, shells), as well as eggs and milk. Lastly, I started to pursue a zero-waste lifestyle by refusing single-use plastics (straws, cups, bags) and by buying from public markets instead of from supermarkets.

With these changes, I felt more aligned with my personal values. And this is probably the first time that I stopped considering "what I should be doing" and accepted that "what I want to be doing" is entirely different.

Living Nomadic

A few years ago, I made the decision to travel full-time and to live locally (rather than touristy) wherever I am. I realized that nothing actually required me to stay in Manila. I was already working remotely with no physical office I had to report to, and I was single and unattached with no one to part from. Also, I had a surplus of savings, no debts to pay and no dependents to support. It was an ideal setup.

My initial plan was to "test whether I really can build a sustainable travel lifestyle". I began by going on one-month multi-country trips, staying back in Manila for a few months to work, going out again for a month or so, and then staying back again for a longer period than I was out. But that wasn't full-time travelling and I felt dissatisfied with my half-assed attempt.

So I made a follow-up decision to make an all-out attempt and see where my guts and my savings can really take me. I travelled within the country without a return date, picking out destinations I haven't been to and making plans along the way. At several points, my account balance approached zero but I was always saved by friends or new-found friends without them knowing it.

Most recently, I have been able to stay out of Manila for a year -- albeit with quick visits in between. I rented apartments and lived with other travellers, becoming a local expat myself. I spent most days working on my laptop out of coffee shops but found time on off-days to explore a bit farther or to soak up the local sun.

Currently, I am making another decision to continue moving and resist the temptation of staying. Although travelling asks me to give up the comfort of familiarity and of knowing what to expect on an almost daily basis, it nevertheless empowers me to pursue the life that I feel most comfortable with.

FAQs

Where are you going next?
In two days, I am due to fly to Taiwan and then to Thailand where I will end and start the year. As my Filipino passport is only allowed 14 days in Taiwan, I will do a "visa run" to Chiang Mai just so I can spend about 30 days exploring Taiwan, specifically Kaohsiung, Kenting, Meinong, Tainan and Taipei. Afterwards, I will gauge whether I want to stay in Chiang Mai, which is one of the digital nomad capitals in the world, or move out to a quieter area in Thailand.

Where are you from?
When travelling abroad, I say that I'm from the Philippines. Easy. When travelling within the Philippines, I normally say that I'm from Manila, just because that's where I have lived the longest (about a decade). However, I spent my childhood in Laguna and my teenhood in Batangas (both provinces that are 2-3 hrs south of Manila) although none of my parents or family are from there.

Where do you live?
I live where you currently find me. I am writing this in Manila where I have been living for the past couple of months. But that's going to change in a couple of days.

Outside of Manila and Batangas, I always find it awkward to respond "I live here" when I obviously look like a foreigner or a non-local. I think unless a person is seen as employed in that place, it is difficult to perceive that someone is a local resident.

It was during a solo travel to Moalboal, Cebu that I learned to drive a motorcycle by asking my tricycle driver to teach me. He called me a daring fast-learner as I drove at 60kph along the National Road while he "comfortably" sat at the back.

Switching to Vegetarian

Although growing up with some form of meat always on the table, I don't really have strong attachments to it. I do appreciate its taste and texture but don't enjoy its oiliness and heaviness. Eventually, I started questioning my reasons for eating meat (out of habit and culture) and started looking for ways to replace meat from my plate but couldn't find any. As compromise, I opted for chicken or fish, thinking that those are healthier and pose less impact, but continued to feel dissatisfied, thinking that there must be another alternative.

Fortunately, I ended up living with vegan/vegetarians and learned from them how easy and practical it is to maintain a vegetarian diet. We bought common vegetables (tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, bell peppers, sayote, monggo) from the local market and simply cooked them into a stir-fry or curry. We ate a whole food, plant-based diet every day and all meals were delicious and nutritious without ever feeling bloated or weak, or missing meat.

I discovered a whole new world of vegetarian eating. I learned about quinoa, lentils, and Vegemite and experimented with vegan banana pancakes and avocado toasts. I realized that there are so much more (and more flavorful) choices beyond pork adobo, grilled chicken and fried fish, and that lots of common dishes can be made vegetarian by simply leaving out the meat/seafood component (e.g. tinola, sinigang, kare-kare).

Whilst feeding myself remains a daily struggle (which it has always been), I know I will never go back to eating meat. I don't experience cravings and don't consider those as food anymore, especially in the midst of sustainability and climate change issues. Most importantly, I feel in better control of what I eat.

FAQ's

Why did you decide to become vegetarian?
There are numerous reasons for deciding to become vegetarian. The turning point for me was realizing how commercialized and mindless the food industry is. It is motivated solely by profits without regard for anyone's health, well-being and satisfaction. Everything is merely represented by numbers in a spreadsheet whereas food is supposed to be nourishing, valuable and appreciated. Although this is also true about vegetables and fruits, I can at least consume it in its natural form. A carrot looks like a carrot whilst we sometimes miss the connection between sausages and pigs.

Other than that, there's:

• Human do not need to eat meat. We do it for pleasure instead of survival.
• It's easier to handle, store and cook vegetables than chicken and fish.
• Pigs, cows, chickens, fish and seafood are living creatures just like you and me. They are not meant to live and die in factories and farms for our consumption (and pleasure).
• Meat dishes are normally very oily and are more difficult to digest.
• Meat production is no longer sustainable and is among the major contributors to climate change.

How long have you been vegetarian?

I have been vegetarian since April 2017, though not strictly. There were instances that I ate batchoy with pork innards, Wagyu fine steak and tilapia stewed in coconut milk but I don't enjoy it anymore. With the steak specifically, I had a stomachache for a full week.

What exactly do you eat?

When eating out, I go to normal restaurants, but avoid those that specialize in meat-based dishes, e.g. Mang Inasal, Tapa King and Peri-Peri Chicken. I look for vegetable-based dishes and request to leave out the meat bits, if any. For example, chopsuey and pinakbet are vegetable-based but sometimes include shrimp and liver. I don't actually just order salads as those are not full meals. If I'm cooking, I make stir-fry tomato-halves with okra and garlic, stir-fry kangkong with red onions, oatmeal with banana and apple slices, or lentils with stewed tomatoes and carrots.

On the plate: sliced cherry tomatoes, grated beets, grated carrots, pumpkin seeds, diced sweet potatoes, chickpeas, sprouted sunflower seeds, and hummus. This isn't how I eat every day but look at how colorful and diverse a veggie meal can be!

Pursuing Zero-Waste

Probably the most difficult and frustrating of my ideals, pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle requires constant discipline, planning and research. At the same time, I think it is one thing that I should stick to and that everyone should pursue -- and not just consider or tolerate.

To live zero-waste is to aim to generate the least amount of garbage possible so that virtually no trash will end up in landfills, incinerators or the ocean. More than practicing "Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.", for me this means purchasing only what is necessary and many times reusable, and refusing what I will not use even if freely given. This includes purchasing a stainless steel tumbler that I can reuse for my drinking water, hot coffee and fruit shakes, and refusing random giveaways such as notepads and shampoo sachets that I already have too many of.

What makes zero-waste living challenging is that there is an opportunity to generate waste at every move. The toiletries I use, the coffee I drink, the clothes I wear, and even the pen I write with all produce trash that is not recyclable and not compostable. Although I can make simple switches like using shampoo bars instead of bottled shampoos, getting coffee at coffee shops instead of making my own, buying second-hand clothes instead of new ones, and writing with pencils or high quality pens, I am still directly or indirectly generating waste.

Although it may seem pointless to even try, I think it is still necessary not because it might save the world but because it might save us from ourselves. Imagine taking out the garbage once a week instead of everyday, not accumulating paper bags and plastic bags from groceries, having less clutter and more space in the house, and choosing fresh fruits for snacks instead of potato chips.

Admittedly, my zero-waste journey is still far from ideal and may never be. However, I do my best in every situation and will continue doing so, striving a balance between consumption and conservation.

Some simple steps:

• Putting my groceries and purchases in a reusable shopping bag instead of in a paper bag or plastic bag
• Using my receipts as notepads instead of purchasing a notebook (though this might not be professional enough in a business setting)
• Switching to a bamboo toothbrush that is compostable unlike a normal toothbrush with a plastic handle (though the bristles are still synthetic and non-compostable)
• Buying whole fruits without plastic packaging instead of cut-up fruits in plastic trays
• Dining in at restaurants instead of taking out or ordering deliveries
• Switching to a menstrual cup and menstrual cloth pads that are more hygienic and cheaper than sanitary napkins and tampons
• Refusing straws and using my lips instead or requesting for a spoon when consuming thick fruit shakes (straws are really unnecessary and non-essential and wasteful)
• Switching to silicone freezer bags and silicone stretch covers from Ziploc bags and cling wraps
• Refusing any kind of packaging whenever possible, e.g. that clear plastic packaging when purchasing clothes, that carton box when I bought my tumbler
• Buying mobile credits electronically instead of buying a plastic prepaid card in plastic packaging
• Requesting for coffee mugs and metal cutlery instead of consuming food and beverages with paper cups and plastic utensils

Instead of accepting brochures, calling cards and flyers, I take a picture of the information I need. In this way, I have nothing to throw away or to add to my luggage, and it is easier to find and to keep information that may be useful in the future.

*****

Although I do promote them, I made these lifestyle changes not because someone told me to do so but because I see the value in them. My decisions make sense for me, considering what I deem important and acceptable, but not for everyone. And that is okay. My only hope is that for more people to take more active and conscious steps towards what is most meaningful and most valuable for them, even though it may not be the most convenient.

The Loneliness of Pursuing a Life

The mid- to late-20s is probably the strangest and loneliest that most people can feel. It is when they start exploring their own interests and passions and discover all the possibilities that they can pursue. But it is also when they start to realize their own burdens and responsibilities and make decisions that they have to see through. And so, friends find new friends to spend time with, set different careers and goals to pursue, and increasingly walk along separate paths to varied destinations.

This is something that I heard from a mid-20-year-old guy when I was an early-20-year-old. At that time, I didn't really understand what he meant. But recently, his words have been coming back to me and have been making more and more sense.

I started this blog in 2015, marking the 2nd year that I decided to set goals and strive towards them. Since then, I have been finding myself in surreal situations that kept reminding me of how fortunate I am. I have been to the best beaches and islands in the Philippines and to some in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand. I have been to 30m below sea level and to several hundred meters above on foot. I have met world-class athletes and world-changing individuals who are also the nicest and least entitled people I know.

However, the farther I travel, the more experiences I pursue, and the more people I encounter, the stranger and lonelier I truly feel. It seems that every step I take along this chosen path is another step away from what used to be familiar, normal and comfortable.

Although I really do live for chasing after new experiences and new destinations, I am finding it more and more difficult to relate with other people. Back in school, everyone is aiming for timely graduation, taking the same exams and programs, and have lived the same number of years. Inside the office, most everyone hates the same boss, complains about the same working conditions, and renders too much overtime at some point.

But now with my nomadic freediver lifestyle, I very rarely meet someone who is the same age as I am or is in the same stage of life. Whilst I want to travel like a local and spend my days at the local coffee shop, others have too much energy and too little time to be satisfied with that. Whilst freediving is the only sport I ever did, others have some physical background to draw resilience and techniques from. There's an infinitely diverse range of goals, intentions, struggles and advantages, in addition to nationalities, ages and civil status, that finding a karamay* is a real diamond.

Hence, there are many times when I feel lost and down, look at everyone surrounding me, and see no one seemingly going through something similar.

But this is not to say that I haven't made real personal connections throughout my gallivanting. Even with my introvertedness and fear of being rejected, misunderstood or found out, I've met a few people whom I consider friends and can hang out with.

This is my new reality now. And though I really am thankful for it, I do wish to find people who are also going through similar roadblocks at the same time.

Taken by Summer at Dumaluan Beach, Panglao, Bohol. Summer was my overall Panglao buddy whom I only found because I impulsively decided to invest in a freediving course. If my stinginess prevailed, my stay in Panglao wouldn't have been as special.

*Karamay - n. roughly translates to "accomplice" or "companion", karamay is a Tagalog word that refers to someone who can sympathize with someone else, often experiencing the same struggles at the same time. I think the English translation does not give justice to the depth of meaning of the word.

Settling Down and Setting Out

In the past year or so, I have been settling down to a less nomadic lifestyle. Instead of monthly backpacking trips to new and undiscovered places, I travelled back to familiar places and stayed for months, assuming a more regular rhythm of working, relaxing and training. I completely unpacked my backpack and stashed it in one corner -- something that I normally do after coming back to Manila and not after arriving at a tropical beach island. I feel like I'm finally growing up.

*****

In April 2017, I put down my backpack to live with four other strangers in a 2-storey apartment in Panglao, Bohol. We all volunteered to be part of a dolphin survey project, which lasted for three months. It was my first step towards marine conservation and a baby step away from capitalism, but as getting paid remains essential, I had to combine both.

On early mornings, I worked with the team to collect data and information about the local dolphin tourism industry in Panglao Island. In the evenings, I worked by myself on my laptop to deliver business plan projects. It was difficult adjusting both to living with other people and to juggling two different jobs. Nevertheless, by the end of the three-month period, I have gained new friends who are similarly unconventional, as well as more clarity towards the person I want to be, whilst keeping my job and my salary.

We normally arrive at Doljo Beach just as the sun is rising, excitedly greeted by the dog pack of Doljo. On some mornings, the sky lit up like it was on fire amidst a cool sea breeze.

In September 2017, after a short solo backpacking trip that included me skipping two days of meals for lack of currency, I reunited with my grumpy-old-man in Koh Tao, Surat Thani, Thailand. He was taking his Instructor's Course while I was recovering from my freediving injuries. It was our first international trip together, which actually didn't go as we hoped.

While he was busy with his day-long classes and sessions, I was idle without work and money. I didn't have active projects to work on during the day and I couldn't withdraw money from my card to spend on exploring the island, so I felt stuck and dependent on him. Even though I tried working on my personal projects and resolved to borrow funds from him, the constant feelings of guilt and constraint made me anxious. It was three weeks of struggling to be okay and pretending to be better.

On the only day I dared to drive alone up and down Koh Tao's steep roads, I successfully and safely arrived at Tanote Bay. I spent the afternoon snorkelling, people-watching and sun-bathing.

In November 2017, after a hectic month back in Manila, catching up with friends, working on projects and volunteering in a non-profit convention, I decided to come with my grumpy-old-man to Boracay Island. Although I initially found myself jobless again and attempted to find local employment, I ended up juggling three different clients along with training for freediving -- a stark contrast from the previous month.

On most days, I hopped from one coffee shop to another for work, walking along White Beach and dodging tourists in between. On less demanding days, I scheduled freediving courses and training sessions, struggling against less-flat and less-warm waters. It was the real first time I assumed a digital nomad lifestyle -- working and living simultaneously in a place of my choosing -- and I made it sustainable. By the end of January 2018, I had to leave for fieldwork in Manila but I felt satisfied and fulfilled.

Regardless of how crowded and polluted it was, Boracay amazed me every day with its powder-white sand and clear blue skies. Whenever life starts to feel heavy, I would walk the stretch of White Beach, comforted by the soft sand and breeze.

In February 2018, after an out-of-town reunion with UKworkinggirl and her squad in El Nido, Palawan, I headed to Siargao, Surigao del Norte. I devised a goal of scouting for a hostel business opportunity, drawing from a feeling two years ago that it could be the island I can finally settle in. Unfortunately, with the recent tourism boom, the island underwent drastic commercialization, resulting in inflated prices.

Nevertheless, arriving at the island vaguely felt like coming home. I squealed with every shop I recognized and gaped at all the new establishments. I stayed at my old hostel and re-introduced myself to the friends I previously made, as well as made new friends at the native studio I transferred to. For more than a month, I cycled between working on my laptop, practising yoga, attempting to surf and understanding the local economy, but the island had become a tourist trap so I had to leave for good.

Arriving at Cloud9 for the first time a few years ago, I gazed in awe at the endless roaring waves and the calm shallows. These days, locals refer to the platform as Crowd9, adding that the island is on its way to becoming the next Boracay.

Since March 2018 , I have been back and living in Panglao, Bohol as a result of personal choice and opportunistic circumstances. Now approaching my 4th month, the longest that I have stayed outside of Manila and Batangas (and my ongoing PB in nomadic living), I have laid down some roots in the form of long-term lodging, go-to coffee shops, familiar faces, and international friends.

Within that period, I have been in and out of the island for travel, work and family -- to Singapore for freediving and conservation, to Dumaguete for an organizational meeting, and to Manila, Davao and Cebu for family reunions. Additionally, I have initiated a citizen science project on the conservation of marine turtles around the island and have been completing a Master's course on freediving, all whilst keeping my employers happy, running on island time, and working out relationship drama.

Unlike other beaches, Alona Beach has always given me mixed feelings. Its turquoise waters are somewhat tempting but its boat traffic is always discouraging. But then, I haven't really spent enough time uncovering its secret pockets.
(I don't have enough pictures from Panglao so I am stealing this from ProbinsyaLeavesTown)

Although I've always had a love-hate relationship with the island -- its lack of exciting activities and of social opportunities balanced by its optimal freediving conditions and accessibility to both beach and city life -- I do consider it as my new home, akin to Manila. It has introduced me to a new reality, enabled me towards unthinkable achievements and forced me to overcome myself. Unfortunately, similar to Manila, I feel like it is becoming too comfortable, too familiar and too near and that I should soon get out.

And so, I have started considering new destinations -- trips that would force me back to my detailed itineraries and to my wide-eyed gazes, trips that would challenge my street smarts and my world ideals, and trips that would anger me to my limit or comfort me towards restful sleep. Regardless, I would like to continue living a semi-nomadic lifestyle of almost settling down before setting back out.

*****

Back in 2015, I remember proclaiming to a fellow nomad in our Kyoto house that I am pursuing a sustainable travel lifestyle and would like to travel continuously for at least two years. Well, at least half of that statement has come true. It's probably high time that I pursue that second half.

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 17-19 Feb 2018

After basing myself out of Panglao and Boracay over the past year, staying for months instead of days, I am again back into travel mode. It has been a while since I ventured somewhere just to be there -- travelling for myself instead of for work or company -- and I've almost forgotten how it feels like. The uncertainty of whether my chosen destination will be friendly enough, the long and tiresome road travels to be endured, and questions of why am I alone, all felt new again and often surprised me.

Coming from El Nido with some friends, I decided to go to Nagtabon beach at the outskirts of Puerto Princesa City in Palawan. I knew just enough to get there but not enough to make a real plan. So I filled my head with contingency plans and consolations but still relied heavily on luck that everything will turn out alright.

And so it did. And more than turning out alright, it turned out special.

Arriving at Javarez Beach Front Lodge, I was greeted very warmly by Kuya Dodoy and Ate Maricel. He was very funny, announcing to everyone that someone came looking for Kuya Dodoy, so I doubted whether it was him until he showed me a drawn portrait bearing his name and prominent mole. Ate Maricel, meanwhile, helped me settle into a hut despite being in the middle of her lunch and even offered the more decent toilet in her house. From then on, I felt very at home and at peace in Nagtabon.

On my first day, I mostly kept to myself whilst being surrounded by groups of weekenders from the city and couples of foreign tourists. I sought out for lunch amongst the few eateries, laid down underneath the palm trees, swam briefly before sunset, and slept early inside my 5sqm nipa hut. Either I felt too tired or too at peace to be bothered by the howling dogs and exchanging of stories around me that I slept 12 hours through the night.

The following day, after a braver-than-usual solo exploration along the rocky coast, I let myself be more social and hung-out with the local lifeguards. I listened to their stories, indulged their questions and followed them around. When they decided to go spearfishing, they invited me to come along and I quickly agreed since I have never been before. It was a big group, consisting of boys who grew up in Nagtabon, regular visitors from the city, and me, a complete stranger. Some brought their surfboards and paddled, some sported only a mask and snorkel and swam, while I wore my long fins and neoprene vest and did shallow dives.

On the morning of my departure, I received utmost Filipino hospitality and spent the whole breakfast morning with the local family. They bought freshly-caught fish, cleaned it, cooked it, served it and asked me to eat first all while I just stood around and watched. I was supposedly a paying guest but they treated me like a part of their extended family and asked nothing in return but a picture to remember them by.

I don't think all solo travelers that wind up at Nagtabon beach receive the same level of treatment so my luck must have been at its peak for me to end up with such a unique and remarkable experience. I was expecting a solitary weekend by the beach wherein I'll do some yoga poses and practice some static exercises but random coincidences and open minds gave me something else that is more worthwhile and that I can treasure forever.

My weekend in Nagtabon beach was a very encouraging "welcome back" into travel mode that reminded me not only of what I earn from travelling but also of why I welcome strangers. Although mostly everyone would think it unsafe to travel solo as a female and put trust on locals of the area, this is exactly how I am able to enrich my life and feel connected to the world. (Caveat: Nevertheless, always approach with caution and stay smart.)

My Nagtabon family. I don't even know all their names. They called each other "boy", "pre", "duy", "teh", "kel", etc.

Fishy diet. Fishermen often arrive from the shore with their fresh catch which they either sell to the eateries or take home.

Nagtabon Beach on a Saturday afternoon. On weekends, the beach becomes relatively crowded, as in separate groups of people are can be seen scattered around.

Just footprints. On other days, it becomes completely empty aside from footprints, paw prints and tire tracks left behind. 

Native studio. Apart from camping, there is also an option to rent out nipa huts that are just big enough to contain a bed but with a terrace and a view. They're very cozy.

Practical Notes

• Address: Sitio Nagtabon, Brgy. Bacungan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan, Philippines
• Cellphone signal is not available as well as electricity, however they do have generators at night time
• Overnight accommodations good for two people are available with Javarez Beach Front Cottages (Php300/400) and with Sapphire Sands (Php600/700)
• It is also possible to rent out an entire house with Playa Paraiso (contact 0905 448 0902/0999 934 0875), just beside Javarez Beach Front Cottages
• There are at least two eateries along the beach serving grilled fish and meat, as well as cold drinks
• In addition to these, cooked meals are available from Javarez and Sapphire Sands, along with bringing and preparing your own food
• Tricycle fare from Bacungan Elementary School along the National Road costs Php200 per person one-way
• It is also possible to charter a tricycle all the way back to Puerto Princesa City for Php500 per vehicle
• Secure parking is available and most guests arrive in cars, vans or motorcycles

Budget Guide

• Tricycle - Php200/person/trip
• Nipa huts for day use - Php150-300
• Lounge Chairs - Php100-200
• Meals - From Php80 for a single person including rice
• Water - Php60 for 1.5L
• Coke - Php25 for a small bottle; Php40 for a tin can
• Halo-halo - Php35 per serving
• Fresh Buko - Php50 per piece

Reminders

Although Nagtabon beach remains relatively unspoiled and off-the-beaten-path, it has increased in popularity in recent years due to word-of-mouth and social media channels. With the influx of visitors came the influx of garbage as well. When planning to visit Nagtabon beach, please consider the following:

• Bring reusable plates, cups and utensils instead of disposable ones. It is a lot cheaper and water for washing is abundantly available.
• Instead of bringing packaged chips as snacks, bring fruits instead. Not only are they healthier but are also completely bio-degrable.
• Instead of purchasing shampoo sachets and small bar soaps for a weekend trip, bring the whole bottle from home. This avoids not only additional costs but also the hassle of going to the store.
• Trash bins are available at the lodges. Please hold on to your plastic wrappers until then instead of throwing them away on the beach.
• Bring your own drinking water, preferably a gallon container. Although water bottles can be purchased, these unnecessarily leave plastic bottle waste plus bringing your own water is a lot cheaper.

Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

Early Morning Routines

Early in 2017, I left Manila for a 3-month commitment with an organisation doing marine conservation work. It was my first time to be involved in such and my first time to stay that long in a single place, outside of Manila.

I became part of a 5-person team from different nationalities, backgrounds, and expertise. We worked early mornings and moved together under a strict schedule that inevitable became a routine. This was something new to me as I have been so used to moving around on my own accord. Nevertheless, it was a learning experience and I now cherish every morning I got up before the sun did. Below is a narrative of our typical early morning.

4:30 am -- I drift into consciousness as my bedroom door quietly creaks open and a familiar voice softly calls my name. I respond as politely as I could, thankful for the wakeup call, but slip back for another five minutes of shut-eye anyway.

4:45 am -- I determine to get up, wash the sleep off my face, and put on the gray survey shirt that I was also wearing yesterday. I am on auto-pilot, with most decisions already been made days before.

4:55 am -- I arrive at the kitchen downstairs to find three other people in varying states of wakefulness and enthusiasm. I exchange glances with one or two of them as I pack my morning snack.

On some mornings, the mountains of Loon seemed to be burning but then a few minutes pass and a fierce orange orb reveals itself.

5:00 am -- Almost on the dot, our habal-habal* drivers arrive in a definitely happier and lighter mood than us, as indicated by Filipino love songs playing loudly from their phone. We split into pairs and set off, no instructions needed.

5:10 am -- After breezing through the empty morning road, we arrive at the usual beach just as the sun is rising. I gaze out towards the orange glow behind the mountains as my companions greet the resident stray dogs who have become accustomed to us.

5:30 am -- We sail out past islets, fish pens, and fishermen for a journey that will take an hour at the least. It's too loud for casual talk aboard our small boat so I sit back, feel the damp wind against my face, and watch the waves roll by us.

6:30 am -- We take out our sheets, equipment, and gears as we spot the cluster of boats that is our objective and instantly switch to full alertness. We maintain this state for a couple of hours as necessary and then slowly sink back to sluggishness.

10:00 am -- Arriving back at the same beach, we are welcomed by the same pack of dogs. We bid our boatmen goodbye and thank you and excruciatingly wait for our ride as we push our bladders of steel to the limit.

10:30 am -- As soon as the motorbikes brake to a stop, we shuffle inside and straight to the kitchen or the toilet. While a couple of us proceed to prepare their breakfast, others sit and check their phones. Either way, this marks the end of our early morning and the start of our individual days. The rest of the day can be spent as we deem appropriate but tomorrow, the routine starts again.