Thursday, October 23, 2025

What Makes A Good Solo Travel Destination?


Solo travel presents an exciting and thrilling opportunity to reconnect with self, to meet new friends, and to get away from everything. However, it also comes with a sense of extreme unfamiliarity, of self-doubts, and of perceived loneliness. It eliminates the restriction of considering other people's preferences but also the comfort of having someone else to rely on.

For me, solo travel always, ALWAYS, brings a confusing mix of fear and adventure -- one that I'll never get over. But with a little help, I somehow manage to get over my anxieties and get myself on that plane. So this time, drawing from my experience, I want to be that help to someone.

This guide is an attempt to provide guidance to those interested in pursuing their first solo travel. It is my hope to encourage individuals, Filipinos especially, to travel more and to focus on discoveries rather than checklists.

So, what makes a good solo travel destination?

1. Somewhere you can socialize and make new friends

Although you will be travelling alone and are preparing to enjoy the company of one, you don't actually have to be alone the entire trip. It would be a good idea to have access to people when you decide that you want company.

Consider the following:
  • More people travel on weekends than on weekdays.
  • Accessible destinations get more visitors than isolated ones.
  • Hostels and dormitories are more conducive to meeting fellow guests than hotels.

2. Somewhere you can interact with locals

"When you travel with company, you tend to build a connection with those people. But when you travel alone, you are given an opportunity to build a connection with the place."

- A friend told me once 'cause I kept leaving him.

Aside from walking around and seeing the place, a good way to go about this is by talking to the locals and getting to know them. Ask them where they're originally from, how they came about settling down in that place, and what they think of the tourists that come and go. It'll be surprising and amusing.

3. Somewhere you can choose solitude

Along with enabling yourself to be in the company of fellow travellers and local residents, it would also be a good idea to be able to be alone when you want to -- it is, after all, a solo travel. This will allow you to contemplate on what you've seen and experienced so far and to decide whether you like it or not.

Tip:
  • For hostels and dormitories, the bed area is normally considered a private space akin to private rooms in hotels
  • On most occasions, sitting silently alone while staring out into the distance signals people to keep away
  • Long transits, like in a bus or a boat, always presents an opportunity to be alone with your thoughts while being surrounded with people

4. Somewhere you can access your personal comforts

If being alone away from your friends and your room isn't uncomfortable enough, then being alone with no access to wifi, electricity, or lighting would definitely be. To balance this, it helps to have something to do that you like in case you end up somewhere with no one to talk to and with nothing interesting to do.

Consider the following:
  • Some destinations will not have good cellphone reception. Check with your hotel/hostel beforehand.
  • Some transits may take longer than expected and electricity outlets will not always be available. A power bank will keep your batteries charged longer.
  • Some places will turn out to be less than expected and not interesting at all. A quick internet search can help you move to another place or find something to do.

5. Somewhere you can do both solo and group activities

Since travelling solo can be more expensive than travelling with a group, being able to choose between activities that cater specifically to a single person or to a group would help control your budget.

Tip:
  • Activities like surfing, diving, and biking are charged per person and can be done on your own.
  • Activities like hiking, canyoneering, and island-hopping are charged per group and is ideally done with a group.


Wherever you decide to go on your own, try to open yourself up to new experiences, new ideas, and new people. More than anything, solo travel made me see that there is so much more kindness in the world than otherwise. Ingat.

Tablas Island, Romblon

7-10 March 2017

Tablas Island is the largest among the islands in the province of Romblon that is little-known as a tourist destination but is starting to see accidental and adventurous visitors. It is divided into several municipalities namely, Alcantara, Calatrava, Ferrol, Looc, Odiongan, San Agustin, San Andres, Santa Fe, and Santa Maria, all of which offer their own natural attractions, varying from isolated beaches, to hidden waterfalls, and to hiking trails. The island hosts the airport for the province of Romblon and is accessible via different carriers by air and by sea.


Leaving from Batangas port aboard Montenegro Shipping Lines at 5pm (Php762 for economy, Php991 for air-con, leaves everyday at 5pm), passengers are automatically rewarded with a sun setting behind Tingloy Island while being pursued by the ship. Side by side bunk beds offer a comfortable enough rest for those who don't mind while instant noodles and chips are available for those who rather munch the 10-hr trip away.

A small boat is parked on the beach in Binucot Bay, Tablas Island, Romblon
Binucot Bay (which means "hidden bay") in the municipality of Ferrol features several coves with isolated and long stretches of white sand beach. The area is good for snorkeling, diving, sunset watching, or just having a beer. It also hosts a pawikan (sea turtle) hatchery that both protects from poachers and educates visitors. Binucot Bay is accessible from Looc (20min, Php150) and Odiongan (30min, Php200) via a motorcycle ride (locally called habal-habal).


A few minute's walk from the resorts in Binucot Bay, past a tiny area of mangroves, is a small cove that hides between forested hills and hosts its own beach. The hidden cove offers private views of the sunset and a short hiking trail around the hillside. A couple of fishing boats use its shore as a jump-off point while a lone white house [not seen in picture] takes advantage of its seclusion to create a relaxing home.

A lighthouse in Looc port to guide both fishing and passenger boats in Looc, Tablas Island, Romblon
At one end of Looc town is Looc port which connects the province to Boracay.









How do you travel?

People travel for different reasons. Some travel for leisure, some for business, some for self-discovery, and some for companionship. Whatever the purpose is, I think there's a certain and appropriate way of doing it -- as with all things life -- that would not only help achieve the goal but also transform the experience.

Unfortunately, not many people know that there are options outside of booking tours and hiring travel agents. Because of this, they may not be able to achieve their travel goals and fail to see travelling as a significant learning experience.

I officially started travelling full-time in 2014 and for a long time, I have always felt something missing and unfulfilled in my trips. Eventually, I realized that my travel style may not be a match with my travel goals. So I questioned my preferences until I found more meaning and pleasure in my trips.

Below are some questions that you can also ask yourself to check whether you are getting what you want from your travels:

1. Travel planning

How do you plan for your travels and choose your destinations? Do you prefer doing your own research or taking suggestions from other people? Or do you skip planning at all and just figure it all out along the way?

What's in my travel kit: plane tickets, DIY itinerary, Lonely Planet guide book, and Google Maps

How some people do it: Travel agents
For people who don't have the time and energy to figure the place out, they employ travel agents. These travel agents would already have an extensive list of destinations and activities for the traveller. Some would be bundled up in packages as day-to-day itineraries and include everything from food to transportation to refreshments. This is the most convenient and safest way to go as everything is already pre-arranged and the visiting foreigner need only to show up at the chosen time and date. However, it is also the most expensive as it utilizes a business service.

For people who are more comfortable with spontaneity and adventure, they figure it out when they get to their destination. There will likely be more than enough tourist assistants to suggest activities and places and if not, there will always be Google.

How I do it: Do-It-Yourself
As someone with more time and energy than money, I do my own planning and itineraries. I usually scour the internet for interesting out-of-the way destinations and alternative cheap activities, putting in considerable hours and thinking to it. In this way, I have total control as to where I want to go, what I want to see, what I want to do, and when I want to move. And because of this, I end up at destinations only locals know of and with activities travel agencies won't suggest.

2. Getting there

How do you intend to go around your destination? Are you comfortable taking public transportation or do you prefer having a private car at your whim?

Un-air-conditioned van service from Laoag to Claveria

How most people do it: Hired transport
New places are difficult to navigate. And not everyone have a strong sense of direction or is willing to get lost. To avoid wasting time on going around in circles, most people prefer hiring their own transport. These could vary from tourist vans/buses, taxis to hired tricycles. The driver usually doubles as the tour guide so the foreigner gets to all the popular spots at the fastest and most convenient way possible.

How I do it: Public transportation, the cheapest way possible
I have a good enough sense of direction and I don't mind getting lost* so I can craft my way around towns and destinations. I get really creative as I want to spend as little as possible but at the same time soak in as much of the place as I can. Modes of transportation that I've taken so far include biking around an island, hitchhiking on a garbage truck, toploading on a bus, and dangling from a jeep. I take normal modes too though, if necessary.

*I love wandering aimlessly. I don't think I get lost because I don't have a destination in the first place. When I get uncomfortable as to where I am heading, I seek legit directions.

3. Accommodation

How much sleeping comfort are you willing to give up? Or how much of your travel budget are you willing to allocate to lodging? Do you feel that you really need your own room or are you comfortable sharing with strangers?

Slept in an old hole-y tent at Kalanggaman Island


How most people do it: Hotels
People hold on to their comfort zones as much as they can. And while travelling, this translates to a private air-conditioned hotel room furnished with white linen and a dresser.

How I do it: Dorm rooms (where available) and fan rooms
Accommodations, unless with a friend, is expensive. I allocate at the most 50% of my daily budget for a soft bed and secure locker. Hotels are definitely out of my radar as I don't believe on spending for something I'll only be using for a few hours each night.

4. Travel Goals

What do you want to achieve from the trip? Are you looking for something? Or do you just want to cross the destination out from your list?

Catching waves while watching sunsets in Liwliwa

How most people see it: To see all the spots in travel brochures
Due to unfamiliarity to a new destination, most people use travel brochures and "must-see's" as their only reference. Although this definitely hits all the noteworthy spots, it misses spots where locals go to, and may even feel manufactured.

How I see it: To see the place as locals see it
I personally hate places that are too commercialized or touristy because it doesn't feel natural. It feels like it has been modified to reflect what visitors prefer instead of what the place really offers. Because I have so much time on my hands, I do intense research -- going beyond lists, scouring Google Maps, finding the most off-the-beaten-path destination. Although I tend to miss the usual tourist destinations, I see something else and often with no other tourists around.

Disclaimer: The above analyses are based mostly on my travels in the Philippines. Popular travelling styles may differ in other countries and I acknowledge that I don't have a strong view on this.

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

2019: The One with Three Things Going at the Same Time

My most dynamic year yet, I started the year partying with strangers in a local club in Chiang Mai, Thailand and ended it counting down with family in a nice hotel in the Philippines. It wasn't a travel-filled (not even a vacation-filled) year, but it was definitely experience-filled.

I was working on two, three or four things at the same time and mostly struggling my way through. And instead of discovering new places, I was discovering new skills, new relationships, and new perspectives on how the real world works.

It was indeed a loooooooong year -- one that is filled with people, places, and experiences.

JANUARY


[Clockwise from upper-left] Celebrated the New Year at a rave (tugs-tugs) party in Chiang Mai. Went on a one-day bicycle tour around Chiang Rai. Learned how to paddle a boat along the mangrove river in Sabang Beach, Palawan. Escaped to Malapascua Island in Cebu for a weekend. Wondered at life and plans for the rest of the year in San Vicente, Palawan. Attended an overnight silent meditation retreat c/o Monk Chat in Chiang Mai. 

FEBRUARY


[Clockwise from upper-left] Went on digital nomad mode in Mactan, Cebu for a couple of weeks. Threw a surprise bridal shower for Agnes in Makati. Used that as an excuse to indulge on vegan Super Scoops ice cream. Started my teaching/learning journey with Reef Nomads. Met fellow marine and conservation enthusiasts in the big city.

MARCH


[Clockwise from upper-left] Had the honour to be one of Agnes' bridesmaids at their wedding in Punta Fuego. Brought Marielle and Patrick to lunch (and dessert) with my parents in Tagaytay City. Reunited with G! at Agnes' and Mon's lovingly-planned wedding in Nasugbu, Batangas. Drove with Marielle to Manila and back for chores, meet-ups, and catch-ups.

APRIL


[Clockwise from upper-left] Caught up with Dani about past projects, future projects and everything in between in Manila. Walked from sunrise to sunset, up and down Mt. Palali in Nueva Vizcaya with the Palali Hiking Society. Sat in a tight outrigger boat for 6 hours across the Babuyan Channel to Calayan Island on the next day. Caught magnificent views and landscapes from high up and down below around the island for the rest of the week in Cagayan. Shared skills and learnings to the diving conservationists of tomorrow c/o Reef Nomads.

MAY


[Clockwise from upper-left] Played around with sculptures and paintings at the Orlina museum in Tagaytay, Cavite with Gregg. Met Sen. Dick Gordon at the MAAP Homecoming in Bataan. Supported the athletes at the Spartan obstacle course race in Malvar, Batangas. Had fun at the photobooth at Pau and Brad's wedding in Galleria, Ortigas. Appeared on live national TV to celebrate World Turtle Day at Net25.

JUNE


[Anti-clockwise from upper-left] Caught up with grown-up cousins and their babies at Eastwood City. Sang karaoke with aunties and uncles from morning until evening at the Aplasca's. Went on a coffee-hopping date with cohort-coussie around Katipunan. Ran around Timezone and the grocery store with the Aplasca cousins in Araneta Center. Discussed zero-waste challenges with Tin at Kopi Tiam. Shared conservation ideas, freediving skills, and marine life knowledge at Reef Nomads' Conservation Camp in Binukbok, Batangas.

JULY


[Anti-clockwise from upper-left] Enjoyed another hectic week with my LAMAVE family in Kalibo, Aklan. Presented our citizen science research on pawikans at PAMS 15 held in Aklan State University. Travelled for a couple of weeks with Gregg from Kalibo to Boracay to Antique to Iloilo to Bacolod and to Dumaguete wherein we rode horses, ate oysters, swam at sunset and climbed hills. Visited the LAMAVE peeps as well as other green-minded friends in Dumaguete.

AUGUST



[Clockwise from upper-left] Met the rest of the Reef Nomads community at Gela's in Quezon City. Released hawksbill turtle hatchlings with the locals of Balicasag Island in Panglao. Introduced Gregg to Cosmic, arguably the best vegan restaurant in the city. Enjoyed a morning underwater sightseeing and catching up with Mercy at Napaling Point. Spent a week with the Pink House family in Oslob, Cebu. Chased after sea turtles with Jia around Balicasag Island.

OCTOBER



[Clockwise from upper-left] Arrived at Baguio City just as locals were starting their morning exercise routine in Burnham Park. Brought my trusty Lonely Planet Philippines guidebook for quick reference and traveller tips. Walked up and down the city for three days and enjoyed its overlooking city views.
Waited for sunset in front of Clean Beach in San Juan, La Union. Withdrew into myself again as I listened to the waves and felt the breeze. Picked up a single sea glass amongst the stranded pip coral and red coral fragments.

NOVEMBER



[Clockwise from upper-left] Held a fundraising event for LAMAVE at the new BGC Arts Theatre in Taguig City. Gave seminars on responding to marine turtle strandings in Moalboal, Cebu. Presented about taking photo-ids of turtles. Shared about my work with LAMAVE at Reef Nomads' event for conservation enthusiasts. Ate home-cooked dinner with the turtle ladies of LAMAVE in Dumaguete. Talked some more about turtles with the turtle-minded divers and guides of Panglao.

DECEMBER



[Clockwise from upper-left] Went to Isla Verde with Reef Nomads and with envi-minded skin divers. Received a cake (and sparklers) for my 29th birthday c/o Gregg. Drove to Victoria, Laguna to look for ducks and found a breezy eatery surrounded by rice fields. Drove out to Tanay, Rizal and ran around mountain fields. Caught up with Block P4 2011++ at a nice Indonesian restaurant in Kapitolyo. Celebrated the New Year with family at Seda Hotel in Laguna and with Gregg via video call.

Saturday, August 3, 2019

(Big) Island Hopping

From the powdery beaches of Boracay to the familiar boulevard of Dumaguete

Travel date: 17-30 July 2019
Destinations: Kalibo, Boracay Island, Mararison Island, Iloilo City, Bacolod City, Dumaguete City
Images: Gregg Yan


At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background || GREGG YAN
At the ridge-side of Lantawan Peak in Mararison Island with mainland Antique in the background

At the height of Habagat season, we agreed to take two weeks off to cross the island of Panay in Western Visayas towards Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. I would have done it solo, as usual, but since a few moons ago, adventures and excursions have become a pleasant joint affair.

Melt-in-your-mouth oysters for lunch

Our adventure started in Kalibo, the almost-city capital of Aklan province. I met him at the arrival gate just as the torrential rain stopped and let his plane disembark. We then walked a couple hundred meters, dodging puddles and tourist vans, to catch a late dinner and beer. The following day, we negotiated a tricycle ride (aka the taxis of the old that would bring you literally anywhere at the right price) to New Washington where I almost cried eating melt-in-your-mouth fresh oysters.

Oysters are filter feeders that eat plankton and algae. They are a low-trophic type of seafood, which means that they sit very low on the food chain and are sustainable and low-impact sources of food. Although plant-based food will always be my go-to, locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food is the higher goal.

Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white side in Boracay Island || GREGG YAN
Two pairs of clean feet with slipper tan lines on powder-fine white sand in Boracay Island

Switching to beach mode

Later in the afternoon, I found myself in awe (for the nth time) of White Beach in Boracay. The wind was blowing strongly, the sand was white and powdery as ever, the waves rolled in one after the other, and my eyes twinkled and smiled in a heart-shaped manner. The carpet of tourists that stretched from Station 1 to 3 even added to its appeal and energy.

For the next seven days, we got out of bed late, walked 10,000 steps, ate both cheaply and expensively, sought random adventures, and drank beer before bed. Laptop work was pushed to the back-burner, but only because internet was not available where it should be.

On most afternoons, we headed out to White Beach and played like kids, either in the water or on the sand. On others, we walked into luxury resorts and enjoyed their amenities, sometimes with a resort fee and sometimes for free.

One high-energy activity that we did though, was horse-back riding. We trotted across golfing hills and galloped down beach coves -- by "we" I mean "95% him, 1% me, and 4% our guide". It was my real first experience and it didn't seem as scary or dangerous as I thought. I also didn't expect it to be extremely exhausting.

A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island || GREGG YAN
A trio of jolly horse-back riders at the golf course of Fairways and Bluewater in Boracay Island

Tiny but terrible Mararison

By day 9, heavy rains have descended onto the paradise island. Luckily, we were already on the move towards the tiny island of Mararison in Antique.

Accessible from Culasi Port via a 20-minute boat ride, Mararison* Island (aka Malalison Island) is a 55-hectare hook-shaped picturesque island that features rolling hills, white sand beaches, marine sanctuaries, and a welcoming community. It offers a feast for outdoorsmen and nature lovers with its varied hiking trails, long stretches of sand, and protected snorkelling sites, not to mention it has a cave, a lake, an islet, a solar power plant, and mobile and internet signal.

After asking about local celebrities who have visited and of local spots to check out, we followed Ate Jiji to catch the sunset from Lantawan Peak, all the while badgering her with a million questions and a thousand photographs. She shared both her personal history and her island's history while we posed on steep slopes and beside pitcher plants.

The following morning, we were up and about way before my set alarm. We set out to comb the entire beach for sea glass**, finding some rare colors, and ended up walking over marble boulders at the other side of the island. On the way, we saw kids burying each other in the sand, so-called "jackstones" that break down incoming waves, a washed-up porcupine fish with pouty lips, and several typhoon-damaged house ruins.

*"Mararison" also translates to "the naughty kid/sibling" in the local dialect. Mararison Island is part of a trio of small islands located west off the coast of Antique, together with Maniquin Island and Batbatan Island. It is presumably "the naughtiest" of the three island-siblings.
**Sea glass refers to shards of broken glass that have been weathered by the sea, thus acquiring a frosted appearance and smoothened edges.

I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique || GREGG YAN
I paused to pose with my full travelling pack before boarding our boat at Culasi Port in Antique

Quickie in the city

After a 6-hour, semi-comfortable, stop-and-go ride aboard a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus, we arrived at our internet- and cable-equipped, white linen-dressed, standard hotel room in Iloilo City. It was an opportunity to catch up with some laptop work and to get some quality sleep, but only for the next 15 hours.

Newspaper hunting in inasal country

Despite the battering rain, we managed to get a taxi to the fastcraft terminal in Iloilo City. The two-hour fastcraft ride to Bacolod City seemed out-of-budget at Php300, but it does include a free movie chosen by whichever midshipman has the remote. In this case, it was Alita: The Battle Angel.

Arriving at Bacolod City, our priorities shifted between getting lunch and finding a newspaper -- both ridiculously difficult goals at that time -- before running out of buses. It was already 3pm and buses run only until 8pm to Dumaguete, which is at least a further 6 hours away.

Almost synonymous to chicken inasal*, or Filipino grilled chicken, majority (if not all) restaurants in Bacolod City specialized in some variation of chicken inasal, while non-meat dishes were unthinkable. We ended up at Manokan Country, a line of local, independent restaurants all dedicated to the local delicacy. I was already settling for rice and plain soup but thought oysters might be okay. Well, I was immobilized with a stomachache the next day.

While I was saving our table at Manokan Country, he made a run to the local central market where newspapers were allegedly found. This was after checking convenience stores, coffee shops, supermarkets, newspaper stands, and bookstores for that Sunday's issue of the Manila Bulletin, the country's largest English language broadsheet newspaper by circulation. At a time when paper publications are dying and in a region where Panay News dominates, it took a great deal of inconvenience, hustling and asking around to grab one of few copies of Manila Bulletin's Panorama.

With these goals ticked, we settled into our air-conditioned Ceres bus seats and drifted to sleep.

*Inasal, esp. chicken inasal, refers to a method of grilling chicken that originated in the City of Bacolod. Typically, specifically-cut chicken parts are marinated in a mixture of calamansi, pepper, coconut vinegar, and annatto then grilled over hot coals, and served with rice, soy sauce, chicken oil, and sinamak.

All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps || GREGG YAN
All smiles and some wine for these nature- and environment-minded peeps

A meeting of green minds

It was the start of the week and the end of our trip. Work duties have been knocking so we began to transition back to our work routines. This just meant drinking coffee, getting up before 9am, sitting in a cafe or restaurant somewhere, and typing on our laptops.

Additionally, we met up with friends of mine and friends of his for dinner and drinks. This consisted of people from different backgrounds and hometowns who all ended up in Dumaguete that night, primarily because of environment- and conservation-related work. Over Italian-style mushroom pasta, hard goat cheese, gin and tonic, and the requisite San Miguel beer, we exchanged stories from the wild, from previous travels, and of ridiculous anecdotes. Passion and compassion were shared around without actually being said and it felt very comfortable and familiar.

A few hours later, at the break of dawn, we were back in Manila and having a second round of breakfast at McDonald's.

Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-colored shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating mollusks [right] || GREGG YAN
Treasures from the sea: inorganic, differently-coloured shards of glass [left] and organic, algae-eating molluscs [right]

Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddle boat instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails || GREGG YAN
Sun-down silhouettes: a mid-air taekwondo kick, a paddleboard instructor, last-light beach-bathers; last-trip paraw sails

The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grass lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow || GREGG YAN
The oft-called Batanes of the Visayas: rolling hills, grassy lands, ocean views, distant clouds, sunset glow

Sunday, July 14, 2019

Sabang Beach, Palawan

Travel date: 23-24 January 2019

Sabang Beach is located two hours northeast of Puerto Princesa City. It is best known as the jump-off point to the Puerto Princesa Underground River, as visitors arrive in vans and right away take a boat to the subterranean river park. However, for those looking for a yet undeveloped beach destination in Palawan (think El Nido 10 years ago), it may be worth staying in Sabang Beach for a night or two.

Although near and accessible enough via well-paved roads from "Puerto" (a nickname for the city and not to be confused with "Puerto Galera" in Mindoro), Sabang somehow missed out on the tourism boom that transformed Coron, El Nido, and most recently, Port Barton. Hotel and restaurant options remain largely local and basic, while electricity remains limited to a few hours after sunset. Evenings are quiet as the couple of bars close up at midnight, along with everything else, and mornings are more so...But mobile signal is strong, and so is the sea breeze and the tropic sun.

From Puerto, I caught the shuttle van to Sabang, as a last escapade in Palawan before moving to Cebu City. My goal was not to see the underground river park but to explore the beach itself, including the mangrove river tour that I just read about.

Sabang beach: brown sugar sand sprinkled with pebbles and seaweed.
Sabang beach doesn't have white powdery sand and swimming isn't safe either. One more thing that it doesn't have though are...crowds and noise.

It helps to mark and to cordon off sea turtle nests for monitoring and fending off dogs and other predators. 
Olive ridley sea turtles are among the 5 species (out of 7) of sea turtles that can be seen in the Philippines. They are much less common than Green and Hawksbill sea turtles and are similarly threatened to become extinct. Protecting their hatching sites helps increase their chances of survival.

Boats anchor off-shore to avoid the crashing waves, though some still set sail depending on need and courage.
When winds are too strong and waves too rough, boat trips get cancelled and so do the underground river tours. On such days, tourist vans don't arrive and tourist boats remain anchored, which might mean a lost payday for some.

Celestino Santander is among the lead guides who also offers "how to paddle for beginners" tours.
About a kilometer away from the tourist landing area, is a century-old mangrove forest and a river running through it. Trained local guides paddle a boat-load of tourists for 20 or so minutes while telling mangrove stories and obligatory semi-relevant jokes.

Paddle Boat Tours cost Php350/pax. Paddle Boat Learning Tours also cost Php350/pax plus a new life skill. They also offer Birdwatching Tours for Php350/pax which starts at 6:30am.

Centuries-old mangrove trees contend for space along the river. Some are male, while some are female. I can't tell which.
Mangroves are extremely valuable and useful but are unfortunately not sexy or exciting enough. I think I first encountered them in the same area during a family trip to the underground river. I remember being curious about their roots that stick out above the water because other trees are not like that.

Sunday, January 27, 2019

Feeling Amazing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Travel date: 13 December 2018 - 9 January 2019

Chiang Mai is the largest city in mountainous northern Thailand. It is located 700km north of Bangkok and is surrounded by the highest mountains in the country. Founded in 1296, it replaced Chiang Rai as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna. (Note: Chiang Mai means "New City".)

The city is surrounded by a moat and thick walls, which served as defenses against the threatful Taungoo Dynasty and the invading Mongol Empire. It is home to over 300 elaborate Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep atop Doi Suthep mountain and Wat Phra Singh within the city walls.

Historically, Chiang Mai has significant cultural, trading and economic importance, second only to Bangkok. Presently, it is considered as among the best cities for digital nomads, with its speedy internet, low cost of living, and abundance of things to do.

*****

I came to Chiang Mai from Taiwan as it was the cheapest flight route I found from Taipei. I didn't research much and wasn't expecting anything. Fortunately, Chiang Mai became a very pleasant surprise. I enjoyed its small alleyways, its surrounding waterways, its cold evenings and its vegetarian-friendly eateries. It made me see the Thailand that most other travellers see -- "Amazing Thailand".

I spent most of my time cycling around and exploring small alleys inside and outside of the old city walls. Very confusing at first, I eventually learned to navigate with minimal help from Google Maps to find garden restaurants, small coffee shops, and discreet yoga studios. Every street was interesting and seemed to hide something just waiting to be uncovered.

Crossing the big road towards my guesthouse, the setting sun caught my attention and tempted me to explore further instead of going straight home.

Sometimes, my two wheels bring me to one of the many local markets around the city. I hunt for snacks wrapped in banana leaves, browse through the displays of local vegetables and fruits, and even consider purchasing new handmade clothing and native bags.

The local markets are most alive on mornings with various stalls selling fresh produce, cooked meals, packaged pastries and hot beverages.

With the many vegetarian/vegan eateries around the city, I was never bothered to cook for myself. I felt so spoiled with having a lot of affordable, accessible and delicious options -- even non-vegetarian restaurants offer vegetarian options. I didn't really have to think and plan my meals, a very welcome change to the Philippine scene where I always have to "negotiate". 

Cat House was the first vegan/vegetarian restaurant that I ate at in Chiang Mai. Although a bit pricey, they had a good selection of mains, smoothies and cakes. 

During my stay, I found the opportunity to see and listen to local jazz bands at North Gate Jazz Co-op and at Thapae East. I got the tip from a friendly random over dinner at a small restaurant that wasn't actually my target destination. I'm not really a music person and I can't name a favorite song or genre but jazz is definitely one of those I listen to -- not that I understand what jazz music really is.

At North Gate Jazz Co-op, the crowd definitely enjoyed the high-energy, head-banging but not-ear-ringing music of this band. The passionate expression of their drummer is just a bonus. 

Probably the most touristy thing that I did in Chiang Mai, I signed up with Elephant Nature Park, a group that truly cares for the elephants, to experience a day with a trio of elephants. I spent Christmas Day endlessly feeding them with bananas and walking them up a hill and then back down to the river along with their actual caretakers-slash-brothers and other visitors from the US, Taiwan and Latvia.

The mother elephant greedily takes as much bananas as is offered to her, not minding her two daughters right beside her. Although they protect each other, elephants don't share food. 

On some mornings, I cycled through the early morning chill to join the local group of yoga practitioners for a free session at the park. The group composed of international yoga teachers who are living in or just passing by Chiang Mai and who are volunteering to lead public yoga sessions at most twice daily for free. It was a different experience practicing yoga at a public open space instead of in a private studio.

Unlike in the controlled environment of a yoga studio, peace and quiet is a game of chance at the park. In one session, motorized grass-cutters provided our ambient music.

My last couple of days in Chiang Mai luckily coincided with Monk Chat's weekly overnight meditation retreat. Held on Tuesdays till Wednesdays, their Buddhist meditation retreat is perfect for newbies who might not be up to the challenge of 10-day and 21-day silent retreats. Although I can go days without talking to anyone, I still found it difficult and awkward and I couldn't meditate anymore by the morning.

Guided by Phra KK, we practised seating, walking, standing and lying down meditation. It was my second exposure to meditation during which I had moments of feeling "high".

Towards the end of my stay in Chiang Mai, I realized how happy I have been for the past couple of months. I met some really inspiring people, I ate so much good food, I slept very well, and I was living in one of the nicest and most pleasant cities. I can only be thankful. :)

Sunday, November 25, 2018

Zero-Waste Fails and Mini-Wins

I just wrote about pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle but here I am in Kaohsiung, Taiwan and incredibly failing at it. Every day, I eat lunch out of a paper box, wipe away dirt with tissue paper, and throw away plastic bags or plastic packaging. The reality is that our society is designed around convenience and single-use "disposables" are extremely convenient.

I get lunch with local friends from food stalls along the street which cannot be expected to provide reusable containers for take-aways. They systematically receive orders, prepare it, and pack it either in paper boxes or plastic bags, often with a rubber band to prevent spillage or in another plastic bag for easier carrying. Disrupting this system by presenting your own food container would cause confusion, delay, and annoyance (not to mention that street vendors are normally old local people who only speak the local dialect and zero tourist English.) Although it is possible to insist on your own container, it prompts a significantly higher friction that I admit would bring no benefit.


On my first day in the city, my local friend treated me to his favorite Black Milk Tea Latte. It has been months since I held a plastic cup and sipped from a plastic straw.


Regrettably, I cannot entirely boycott street food for practical and social reasons. Doing so would mean affording only one meal per day and missing out on the only dedicated time to connect with other people. And as long as our society remains driven by convenience and efficiency, this is the reality.

Nevertheless, I strive to reduce my consumption, especially when I am by myself and choices fall more within my control. I refused that extra plastic bag and carried my take-out box in my hands instead. I brought my own shopping bag when I purchased fruits from the fruit market I stumbled upon. I requested to leave out the plastic straw and the plastic seal when I bought a longan fruit drink from that stall where no other customer was in line. Surprisingly, vendors easily understand when I wave away the plastic bags they are about to put my purchases in. They also don't offer me twice or give me puzzled looks.

Zero-waste win! Although the drink is still in a plastic-coated paper cup, I was able to do away with the plastic seal, the plastic straw, and the plastic bag. The dragon fruit and apples also fit nicely with my packable shopping bag.

Being in a foreign place where I have less alternatives and where communication is more challenging, I am succumbing to convenience and to what is readily available. However, I do remain aware of my recyclable and non-recyclable consumption (which is what I am advocating for, read:awareness). I am also starting to find it not so difficult to refuse or to hand-back that extra plastic bag and plastic straw.

This gives me hope. Hope that I will be more committed to a waste-less lifestyle and hope that the world is heading there as well.

Update:

I am now in Chiang Mai, Thailand and am finding zero-waste living here surprisingly very easy. There are a lot of local markets where I can purchase unpackaged fruits and vegetables and put them in my shopping bag. There are also some vendors that package cooked meals and street snacks in banana leaves. When I went to the Saturday Night Walking Market, I brought my Lock n Lock container and Healthy Human tumbler with me and had no difficulty requesting the vendors to put my salad and shake in those instead. There was even one vendor who seemed to be congratulating me for opting for a tumbler and refusing a straw ("mai ao ka") and also showed her tumbler to me. All is good. :)




Note: Recycling is big in Taiwan. It produces more recyclable waste than unusable waste and has its own recycling supply chain. The food boxes and the beverage cups are recyclable. Nevertheless, reducing waste should still be the first priority and recycling the last option. 

Monday, November 12, 2018

I Feel Like a New Person...Again

In the past year, I made several conscious changes with regards to how I live my life and how I make an impact. I continued to assume a digital nomad lifestyle, which meant working from wherever my laptop is and being based wherever my backpack is. Also, I switched to a vegetarian diet wherein I no longer eat red meat (pork, beef), white meat (chicken) and seafood (fish, shells), as well as eggs and milk. Lastly, I started to pursue a zero-waste lifestyle by refusing single-use plastics (straws, cups, bags) and by buying from public markets instead of from supermarkets.

With these changes, I felt more aligned with my personal values. And this is probably the first time that I stopped considering "what I should be doing" and accepted that "what I want to be doing" is entirely different.

Living Nomadic

A few years ago, I made the decision to travel full-time and to live locally (rather than touristy) wherever I am. I realized that nothing actually required me to stay in Manila. I was already working remotely with no physical office I had to report to, and I was single and unattached with no one to part from. Also, I had a surplus of savings, no debts to pay and no dependents to support. It was an ideal setup.

My initial plan was to "test whether I really can build a sustainable travel lifestyle". I began by going on one-month multi-country trips, staying back in Manila for a few months to work, going out again for a month or so, and then staying back again for a longer period than I was out. But that wasn't full-time travelling and I felt dissatisfied with my half-assed attempt.

So I made a follow-up decision to make an all-out attempt and see where my guts and my savings can really take me. I travelled within the country without a return date, picking out destinations I haven't been to and making plans along the way. At several points, my account balance approached zero but I was always saved by friends or new-found friends without them knowing it.

Most recently, I have been able to stay out of Manila for a year -- albeit with quick visits in between. I rented apartments and lived with other travellers, becoming a local expat myself. I spent most days working on my laptop out of coffee shops but found time on off-days to explore a bit farther or to soak up the local sun.

Currently, I am making another decision to continue moving and resist the temptation of staying. Although travelling asks me to give up the comfort of familiarity and of knowing what to expect on an almost daily basis, it nevertheless empowers me to pursue the life that I feel most comfortable with.

FAQs

Where are you going next?
In two days, I am due to fly to Taiwan and then to Thailand where I will end and start the year. As my Filipino passport is only allowed 14 days in Taiwan, I will do a "visa run" to Chiang Mai just so I can spend about 30 days exploring Taiwan, specifically Kaohsiung, Kenting, Meinong, Tainan and Taipei. Afterwards, I will gauge whether I want to stay in Chiang Mai, which is one of the digital nomad capitals in the world, or move out to a quieter area in Thailand.

Where are you from?
When travelling abroad, I say that I'm from the Philippines. Easy. When travelling within the Philippines, I normally say that I'm from Manila, just because that's where I have lived the longest (about a decade). However, I spent my childhood in Laguna and my teenhood in Batangas (both provinces that are 2-3 hrs south of Manila) although none of my parents or family are from there.

Where do you live?
I live where you currently find me. I am writing this in Manila where I have been living for the past couple of months. But that's going to change in a couple of days.

Outside of Manila and Batangas, I always find it awkward to respond "I live here" when I obviously look like a foreigner or a non-local. I think unless a person is seen as employed in that place, it is difficult to perceive that someone is a local resident.

It was during a solo travel to Moalboal, Cebu that I learned to drive a motorcycle by asking my tricycle driver to teach me. He called me a daring fast-learner as I drove at 60kph along the National Road while he "comfortably" sat at the back.

Switching to Vegetarian

Although growing up with some form of meat always on the table, I don't really have strong attachments to it. I do appreciate its taste and texture but don't enjoy its oiliness and heaviness. Eventually, I started questioning my reasons for eating meat (out of habit and culture) and started looking for ways to replace meat from my plate but couldn't find any. As compromise, I opted for chicken or fish, thinking that those are healthier and pose less impact, but continued to feel dissatisfied, thinking that there must be another alternative.

Fortunately, I ended up living with vegan/vegetarians and learned from them how easy and practical it is to maintain a vegetarian diet. We bought common vegetables (tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, bell peppers, sayote, monggo) from the local market and simply cooked them into a stir-fry or curry. We ate a whole food, plant-based diet every day and all meals were delicious and nutritious without ever feeling bloated or weak, or missing meat.

I discovered a whole new world of vegetarian eating. I learned about quinoa, lentils, and Vegemite and experimented with vegan banana pancakes and avocado toasts. I realized that there are so much more (and more flavorful) choices beyond pork adobo, grilled chicken and fried fish, and that lots of common dishes can be made vegetarian by simply leaving out the meat/seafood component (e.g. tinola, sinigang, kare-kare).

Whilst feeding myself remains a daily struggle (which it has always been), I know I will never go back to eating meat. I don't experience cravings and don't consider those as food anymore, especially in the midst of sustainability and climate change issues. Most importantly, I feel in better control of what I eat.

FAQ's

Why did you decide to become vegetarian?
There are numerous reasons for deciding to become vegetarian. The turning point for me was realizing how commercialized and mindless the food industry is. It is motivated solely by profits without regard for anyone's health, well-being and satisfaction. Everything is merely represented by numbers in a spreadsheet whereas food is supposed to be nourishing, valuable and appreciated. Although this is also true about vegetables and fruits, I can at least consume it in its natural form. A carrot looks like a carrot whilst we sometimes miss the connection between sausages and pigs.

Other than that, there's:
  • Human do not need to eat meat. We do it for pleasure instead of survival.
  • It's easier to handle, store and cook vegetables than chicken and fish.
  • Pigs, cows, chickens, fish and seafood are living creatures just like you and me. They are not meant to live and die in factories and farms for our consumption (and pleasure).
  • Meat dishes are normally very oily and are more difficult to digest.
  • Meat production is no longer sustainable and is among the major contributors to climate change.

How long have you been vegetarian?
I have been vegetarian since April 2017, though not strictly. There were instances that I ate batchoy with pork innards, Wagyu fine steak and tilapia stewed in coconut milk but I don't enjoy it anymore. With the steak specifically, I had a stomachache for a full week.

What exactly do you eat?
When eating out, I go to normal restaurants, but avoid those that specialize in meat-based dishes, e.g. Mang Inasal, Tapa King and Peri-Peri Chicken. I look for vegetable-based dishes and request to leave out the meat bits, if any. For example, chopsuey and pinakbet are vegetable-based but sometimes include shrimp and liver. I don't actually just order salads as those are not full meals. If I'm cooking, I make stir-fry tomato-halves with okra and garlic, stir-fry kangkong with red onions, oatmeal with banana and apple slices, or lentils with stewed tomatoes and carrots.

On the plate: sliced cherry tomatoes, grated beets, grated carrots, pumpkin seeds, diced sweet potatoes, chickpeas, sprouted sunflower seeds, and hummus. This isn't how I eat every day but look at how colorful and diverse a veggie meal can be!

Pursuing Zero-Waste

Probably the most difficult and frustrating of my ideals, pursuing a zero-waste lifestyle requires constant discipline, planning and research. At the same time, I think it is one thing that I should stick to and that everyone should pursue -- and not just consider or tolerate.

To live zero-waste is to aim to generate the least amount of garbage possible so that virtually no trash will end up in landfills, incinerators or the ocean. More than practicing "Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.", for me this means purchasing only what is necessary and many times reusable, and refusing what I will not use even if freely given. This includes purchasing a stainless steel tumbler that I can reuse for my drinking water, hot coffee and fruit shakes, and refusing random giveaways such as notepads and shampoo sachets that I already have too many of.

What makes zero-waste living challenging is that there is an opportunity to generate waste at every move. The toiletries I use, the coffee I drink, the clothes I wear, and even the pen I write with all produce trash that is not recyclable and not compostable. Although I can make simple switches like using shampoo bars instead of bottled shampoos, getting coffee at coffee shops instead of making my own, buying second-hand clothes instead of new ones, and writing with pencils or high quality pens, I am still directly or indirectly generating waste.

Although it may seem pointless to even try, I think it is still necessary not because it might save the world but because it might save us from ourselves. Imagine taking out the garbage once a week instead of everyday, not accumulating paper bags and plastic bags from groceries, having less clutter and more space in the house, and choosing fresh fruits for snacks instead of potato chips.

Admittedly, my zero-waste journey is still far from ideal and may never be. However, I do my best in every situation and will continue doing so, striving a balance between consumption and conservation.

Some simple steps:

  • Putting my groceries and purchases in a reusable shopping bag instead of in a paper bag or plastic bag
  • Using my receipts as notepads instead of purchasing a notebook (though this might not be professional enough in a business setting)
  • Switching to a bamboo toothbrush that is compostable unlike a normal toothbrush with a plastic handle (though the bristles are still synthetic and non-compostable)
  • Buying whole fruits without plastic packaging instead of cut-up fruits in plastic trays
  • Dining in at restaurants instead of taking out or ordering deliveries
  • Switching to a menstrual cup and menstrual cloth pads that are more hygienic and cheaper than sanitary napkins and tampons
  • Refusing straws and using my lips instead or requesting for a spoon when consuming thick fruit shakes (straws are really unnecessary and non-essential and wasteful)
  • Switching to silicone freezer bags and silicone stretch covers from Ziploc bags and cling wraps
  • Refusing any kind of packaging whenever possible, e.g. that clear plastic packaging when purchasing clothes, that carton box when I bought my tumbler
  • Buying mobile credits electronically instead of buying a plastic prepaid card in plastic packaging
  • Requesting for coffee mugs and metal cutlery instead of consuming food and beverages with paper cups and plastic utensils

Instead of accepting brochures, calling cards and flyers, I take a picture of the information I need. In this way, I have nothing to throw away or to add to my luggage, and it is easier to find and to keep information that may be useful in the future.

*****

Although I do promote them, I made these lifestyle changes not because someone told me to do so but because I see the value in them. My decisions make sense for me, considering what I deem important and acceptable, but not for everyone. And that is okay. My only hope is that for more people to take more active and conscious steps towards what is most meaningful and most valuable for them, even though it may not be the most convenient.